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General TR Weight Loss Program

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glemon

glemon

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OK, I may have too much time on my hands (not really actually, but I do spend a lot of time thinking about cars) but anyway, I have been thinking lately about weight loss, for my car, although I could use a little personal weight loss program too (there is a great article by Peter Egan about racing in Formula Ford or Formula Vee or one of those formulas where the cars are quite similar in spec and performance, and how shaving five pounds from the car can be an appreciable advantage, then, to paraphrase, " I had an epiphany, what about working on my own power to weight ratio" etc.)

Anyway, I have been thinking that many of the "improvements" we add also add weight, such as anti-sway bars, overdrive transmissions, and bigger wider wheels.

They say weight loss is a no lose proposition for racing or street performance, and there are a lot of parts and modifications you can do to shave weight, one that I have thought of from time to time, the frames on MGAs, for example, taper towards the rear end, where they don't need to be nearly as strong, an IRS TR frame doesn't have all that much to do once it gets past the mounts for the rear suspension, I have thought about cutting and tapering it off. I have also thought of retrofitting a TR4A top from to my TR250, I very seldom drive with the top up, so the benefits of the better seal on the tops of the side windows is minimal, and the 4A frame, in addition to being lighter, takes up less room in the storage area behind the front seat when down.

There are a lot of other available parts and DIY modifications as well that would help a TR lose weight, and I have been compiling a mental list for a while, but rather than spoil all the fun why don't you chime in with ideas, I am hoping to hear some I haven't thought of, also if anyone had endeavored to actually do more than think about a systematic weight loss program on a street TR I would be interested in hearing about it.
 
On race day everything in the trunk must go, even the hold up rod, tank cover adds a pound or two. Depending on class, the bumpers add a bunch. Electric fuel pump, 1/2 pound plus no house power to run it. How many 1 inch holes can you cut in the door panels, under the cover in the metal. Just a few I can think of. Drill holes in the rear frame would be easier than doing the taper thing.

Wayne
 
I heard that Colin Chapman's approach was to take stuff off until the car folded in half and then put back the last piece he took off. :glee:
 
Over the years of rebuilding FOURA, I did try to replace heavy parts with lighter ones where possible. The car came from the States to Oz without a fan or the fan extension, so that was a start.(!) I replaced the generator with an Edge alternator from Cambridge Motorsport which saved about 4kg. The heavy (and non operative) horns were replaced with light plastic items. I used the light alloy water pump and housing from Racetorations. The standard ones are VERY HEAVY! Willwood calipers from Goodparts saved a few more pounds. (Note ability to jump between metric and imperial measure). Last year, I put a geared starter on the car which was about half the weight of the original one. Minilite replica wheels replaced the Carlos Fandango 8x14 wheels that the car came with and are lighter than the steel originals.

All up I think that I have taken about 50lbs out of the car. Unfortunately, the MX5 seats have put some back. I don't think that I would be messing with anything on the chassis or running gear having seen how the chassis bends when you jack the car.

I have an inherited blood condition and at my last checkup, my specialist suggested that I lose 10lbs. Like Peter Egan, I am looking forward to feeling the extra performance. So is my wife.
 
Thanks Rocky, I didn't see that until today, many things I was thinking of.

Here are a few more

Aluminum brake drums from a 240z
Aluminum front and rear engine plates (I know these are available for the 6s, don't know about the 4 cylinders)
Toyota 5 speed vs. Overdrive (I think this saves 20-30 pounds, I like overdrive though, and went with O/D on my car
Fiberglass Fenders (does anybody still make these?, for a time I think they were the only option if you wanted new body panels)
Here is one I didn't know about, but supposed to be a third the weight of a lead acid battery https://www.lithiummoto.com/battery-sizing.html also 4-5 times as expensive
Polycarbonate, Lexan, or other lightweight side glass (flat panels on a TR4-6, should be easy to have cut
TR4A top frame vs. TR250/6, should shave a few pounds
Lightweight, spacesaver spare
 
You just reminded me that having switched to an alternator, I also went to a modern battery which is much lighter than the classic big black battery. A mechanic friend recommended that, both to save weight and because he believes that the original heavy battery acts like a pendulum and contributes to scuttle shake. The excellent work by the guy who rebuilt the body and the smaller battery mean that the body has excellent rigidity for a TR. The alternator puts out 45 amps and I have not had any electrical problems in 10 years.

I run 195/65 tires but I have a 165/80 spare. Lighter and keeps the boot floor flat (see below!). Another possibility would be an alloy cylinder head. As with horsepower, lightness only requires application of money!

Here is why I won't be lightening the chassis any time soon!
TR Luggage.jpg
 
Do they make alloy heads for 4 and 6 cylinder TRs? I know you can get them for the Big Healeys (and Spridgets and Bs too I think) but didn't know about the TRs.
 
No need to lighten the frame, judging by my exploits while replacing the trailing arm mounting crossmembers on my car, a bunch of the original factory frame weight has already disappeared into rust! :wink-new:
 
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