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Weber DGAV questions

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Pythias

Pythias

Jedi Knight
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I'm replacing my 1098 with a .030 over bored 1275. At the same time,
I'm going with an LCB header and new exhaust sytem, AND
a Weber DVAG carb that has an electric choke.

My two questions are...
1a) What do I use to power the electric choke?
1b) Should it be switched?

2) I see that there's a vacuum advance port on the carb that's been
plugged off. Should that be opened up and hosed to the Dizzy?
 
DGAV means water choke (agua) DGEV is electric DGV is manual. The E element can replace the A element, btw.

HOWEVER..... don't bother with the Weber. They are great on some cars, and I have them on Volvos, Land Rovers, BMWs, Opels but never worked well on A-series.

Stick with the reliable SUs. Honest.


Peter C
 
Peter is right, I hated my DGV. Had a off idle flat spot that was impossible to tune out. Now I have a DCOE and that made it a different car. One day I will probably go back to SU's, just have to sell the DCOE first.
 
I agree with Peter, Bill.
You probably have a good set of SU's on your 1098 that would work fine. I acquired a Midget with a DGV on it that the previous owner had spent a lot of time and money trying to get it to run right. The car came with a coffee can full of Weber venturi tubes and jets and other parts. The PO had got the car to run like stink but the gas mileage was only about 20mpg. Smoked black as well. He was trying to cure the flat spot and get decent acceleration.

Kurt.
 
I don't have a manifold for the SU's.

This DGAV has been converted to electric. There is no question about Peter being right or wrong. He knows his stuff. At this point I'm committed though. I already have all the parts in hand.
 
Bill, what manifold did you use on the 1098?? Not too difficult to change if it does not work out. I may have a spare manifold.


Kurt.
 
Never had a problem w/ my DGV and you don't need a choke. If I don;t need one in 27 degree weather neither do you.
 
I had a DGV on a "72 Midget years ago and had that same "flat spot/stumble issue. It was easily corrected (in my case) by swapping out the jets to (as I recall) slightly smaller ones. It may take some experimentation with a couple different sizes, but that are really easy to swap.

Use a hot lead from the ignition switched side of your fuse panel. No real need to have an aux switch if it's working properly. Mine had a manual choke.
 
The Weber came on a Pierce manifold, speaking of which, on Pierce.com I found a conversion kit to make it become a manual choke.

I've had an offer to swap the Weber for a pair or rebuilt SU's, but they have to come with a manifold.

The manifold I have is stock for the 1098, the one with the funny little ball, but that won't work with the header.

I had the opportunity, when I ordered the engine to have either the weber or a pair of su's for the same price. I'm loath to not even attempt to use the weber. If I can't make it work I can always pick up a manifold and go back to my 1098 carbs.
 
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