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weber carb rebuild HELP!

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The emulsion tubes.....should make little or no difference at idle.
Your idle circuit is where the problem is, either plugged or extrememly low fuel level in the bowl.

You need to blow those lines out with the parts out.
Did you take the idle jets (primary and secondary) out of the carb body to clean them and the passages?
 
Yes I did take those out, I blew through them with my mouth and seemed clear I did not blow through air passages of carb body. I am feeling more confident now that I have messed with this carb and will go back through the carb again from scratch per your information and use my carb dip cleanner to clean- clear with air-spray carb cleaner-reassemble

Can you help me with which emulision tube goes where ? one has more holes than the other. plus the jets on top are they different from one side to the other.
 
when I restored Ms Triss, there were a few jobs I decided I didn't need to learn - rebuilding my SU was one of them. Is there not a carb shop in town? I suspect a couple hours and a couple dollars will be the difference between enjoying the car and ongoing frustration. It might be time to let someone else take a crack at it.
 
https://www.allcarbs.com/detail.php?pid=926&mfgn=3&ctgn=72&stt=0&gb=2

Beleive it or not I enjoy the frustration, cause through frustration I learn.

And I have found a carb shop to rebuild but they want $200.00. The above link shows a carb for about the same price. I found a non electric one yesterday for $189.00 also. I can buy for this and have my weber for spare

the above link is a 32/36 with electric choke which makes sense to me. it is my parachute choice right now. still watching carbs on ebay too.
 
MM said:
Beleive it or not I enjoy the frustration, cause through frustration I learn.
Click to expand...

It's really a "leg-up" if you know the beastie you're driving, end-to-end. That way if you're outside the yard and it starts actin' funny you have more insight as to how the various thingies interrelate. All the better to get ya home CARRYING your shield. :wink:
 
Here is my solution to rebuilding the Weber..... I cannot express the frustration I experienced of having my engine finally put together and everything ready for the road.....except for the Weber. I spent countless hours of frustration here on the Forum and in the garage trying to make it work. Two rebuild kits, blowing out every orifice, tanking it...nothing eliminated the carb dying at 2500 RPM. I sold it on ebay for $160, bought a pair of SUs on craigslist for $80 and had them rebuilt. It is the best thing I ever did.

Keep an eye on these, they look pretty sweet!
https://tinyurl.com/2djgm9n
 
and that folks is cheep for sure.
 
Well so far I have met limited success.

I found all the information on the weber link I posted. so I have all the right parts in the right spots. Just needed to expand the drawing enough to see parts.

You have got to love the internet

Cranked and started the Midget and idles fine but choppy. I let it run for about 5 minutes, like I said I have open exhaust and want to get that taken care of before I go any further. So I can time and adjust the mixture with exhaust quiet and correct. I have it set at about 1-1 1/2 now

Still has a hestitation when going from idle to gas. what area of carb controls that
 
I ran the DGV for years. It can be tuned to work OK but believe me never perfect.
it will have a dead spot at about 2.5 during transition Note (the beauty of an SU is there is No door slamming jet change taper needles make for a smooth transition in throttle position.

DGV is sensitive to changes in engine timing make sure you have it were you want it and under standing they like a little more advance then quoted for the car.
After you have it set don’t change it! Timing advance and jet transition are taking place about the same RPM thus the %@# stumble keep the variables to a minimum
Read the following article several times as it will give you an excellent perspective of what is going on with the DGV. Note these are settings for a Datsun 510 but the methodology is still the same. DGV works with allot of different engines and a wide cubic displacement of engines just not perfect but close...


https://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/ Follow thru tech Dept Engine Weber tunning.
 
mightymidget said:
Still has a hestitation when going from idle to gas. what area of carb controls that
Click to expand...
That's just what DGV's <span style="font-style: italic">do</span>. :devilgrin: I've gotten into the habit of blipping the throttle slightly just before 1st gear, and living with it.

One of the reasons I want to switch to an SU. That, and really disappointing fuel economy with the Weber.
 
You should be getting really good gas mileage with the weber. I can get near 50 if I drive it easy and mid to high 30s when I drive it real hard. Sounds like someone kept putting bigger main jets in there trying to get rid of the just off idle lean condition, and that has nothing to do with the main jets.
 
Just make sure your accelerator pump is pumping right away.

Bad chewck valve (ball) seating in the AP circuit can cause all sorts of off-idle acceleration stumbles.

Make sure the squirter is clear.

Engine off, air cleaner off, flashlight looking down the throat with choke propped wide open, crack the throttle by hand and LOOK.
If it takes half the throw to get anything out, you've got a problem.
 
regularman said:
You should be getting really good gas mileage with the weber. I can get near 50 if I drive it easy and mid to high 30s when I drive it real hard.
Click to expand...
:eeek: Whoa! <span style="font-style: italic">Really</span>?! Wake-up call for me...I drive like a granny, do all the hypermiler tricks, and still get only 24 mpg. I'm gonna haveta figure this out!
 
bthompson said:
regularman said:
You should be getting really good gas mileage with the weber. I can get near 50 if I drive it easy and mid to high 30s when I drive it real hard.
Click to expand...
:eeek: Whoa! <span style="font-style: italic">Really</span>?! Wake-up call for me...I drive like a granny, do all the hypermiler tricks, and still get only 24 mpg. I'm gonna haveta figure this out!
Click to expand...
I have not got enough data to form a good average with the gearing I have now, but with the 1275, weber dgv, and 3.90 gearing and driving 60mph on the interstate on some long trips, I got 37mpg, around town I got around 30. I have a 5 speed and 3.55 rear gear now, so at 65 I am at 3000 rpms and 55 at 2500 rpms. That kicked up my highway mileage a bit, but still its around the low 30s just stop and go around town. I been doing a mix and usually get about 160 miles from full down to 1/4 tank when I fill up with around 4 gallons. I am a hyper miler kind of guy too, that is why I went with the cruiser gearing. No other midget like mine, that is for sure.
 
TOC said:
Just make sure your accelerator pump is pumping right away.

Bad chewck valve (ball) seating in the AP circuit can cause all sorts of off-idle acceleration stumbles.

Make sure the squirter is clear.

Engine off, air cleaner off, flashlight looking down the throat with choke propped wide open, crack the throttle by hand and LOOK.
If it takes half the throw to get anything out, you've got a problem.
Click to expand...
https://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vspfiles/weber_carburetor_schematics/3236DGV.pdf


#36 in the diagram of link posted is that the accelerater pump or is it #14?

Also ID the check valve youare talking about please. again thanks...
 
Monday I am gonna take another stab at it. Got the two exhaust pipes made into one today with a connector. I am getting the feeling I made need to buy a carb. kit and build one more time. Was afraid to buy one before and waste my money but may be worth it now.
 
14 is the power valve diaphram. Power valve works on lack of vacuum. When you dump the throttle, and manifold vacuum goes to near zero, power valve unloads and bypasses main jets. #21 is the actual power valve the tip of 14 rests against.

36 is the accelerator pump diaphram, operated by the lever in the housing 34. Fuel goes through the passages to the squirter (81), held in place by pump delivery valve 82 (check valve should be here).
 
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