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Weber Carb 32/36 DGV - Choke Linkage?

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DenverMGB

DenverMGB

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Hi all, new here and first post!

We have just acquired a '79 B from a yard sale and need to get it emissions tested. The previous owner had a replacement carb. fitted recently. A Weber 32/36 DGV 5A.

Problem is that it doesn't start easily and I think the reason is the choke linkage isn't closing the 'choke plates' properly. A squirt of damp start usually does the trick so it's not the electrics. (He also had a pointless distributer fitted).

There is a choke rod hanging down the side of the carb body. I think it's supposed to link to the choke lever but I don't know how and the Weber docs on-line don't show anything useful. I would post a photo but its very difficult to get to. The parts I'm refering to are numbers 5 (choke plate), 7 (connecting rod) and 42 (lever) on the Weber parts diagram.

Can anyone out there tell me how the two are supposed to be linked together?

Thanks in advance for any assistance!
 
IIRC, the linkage you mention must be connected as the carb body's two main parts are assembled! Sounds as if the DPO was in a rush...

My memory of the DGV's is spotty. Been a couple years since I had one on a bench, so others may be along to "correct" me soon. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif

BTW: Welcome to a VERY reactive and friendly forum, the answers will come sooner than about any other site you could name.
 
Thanks for the speedy reply.

So it looks like a part is missing. There is a U-shaped piece of brass on the inside of the lever which I can lie the choke rod in. Then it looks like it's working as it should but of course, the rod can easily flop right out again! Just spoke with the old owner and he said he bought the carb. locally and fitted it himself. He didn't remember if the rod was fitted correctly then or not.
 
There's a clip or somesuch device to retain the rod in the lever, sounds as if that's gone missing.
 
yes, there's a tiny circlip that holds the choke plate linkage together, as it runs up through a slot on the outside of the air passage. It should be obvious where it goes, now that you've found the spot where it can come apart. Get yourself a mixed bag of circlips at your local hardware & car parts store...

(I've just rebuilt mine, which is the only reason I remember this)

-D
 
I have a DGV sitting on my workbench right now. When I get home I'll take a good photo of the choke linkage for you...it'll be worth 1000 words /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
 
"So it is written." Ain't this innernet thingie a kick?!?! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
 
OK, lets see if this works:

DSCN0500.JPG
 
Fantastic! As the good doctor says, the Internet is a magical place!

Those photos are amazing. Thanks Joe. I think I can work it out now. There is a spring and a plastic washer above the link and a circlip below it. I'm missing all of these!

From the parts list at https://webernorthamerica.com/pdffiles/32_36DGV.pdf it seems that the choke rod comes with these parts already assembled.

We are going to the British car place on Saturday to see what they have to say...

Thanks again all!
 
Maybe this will help. This is Red lines DVG. Dont know. PJ

k050.jpg
 
Hope I'm not out of line by jumping in on this discussion with a new question/problem.

I just purchased a new DGV with manual choke for my 73 Midget. The motor is freshly rebuilt (250 miles ago) with all new componients and running well (could never get the rebuilt SUs to work properly); I've installed electronic ignition.

I followed the "BEFORE BEGINNING YOUR INSTALLATION FOLLOW THESE STEPS" instruction.

I followed the "BEFORE ADJUSTING THE CARBURETOR" instructions.

After installing the Weber carb the motor fired right up and immediately went to 3500 RPM. I've been unsuccessful in my attempts to get the idle to come down below 1500. The motor now starts at 1500 RPM but continues to rise to over 2400 RPM where I usually shut it down.

I've gone back to basics several times but with the same end results. I've sprayed carb cleaner around the manifolds and carb several times and can't see any vacuum leaks. Vacuum line (new) to the dizzy is disconnected and plugged off. Fuel is clean and supplied by the original SU pump at under 3 lbs thru a new filter.

Has anyone experienced this problem? Can anyone suggest a cure or what I might look at to solve this problem?

Thanks guys,

Jim C
73 Midget
67 MGB
 
suggestion, when it's fired up, unhook the throttle linkage at the carburetor. Try turning the idle speed screw counterclockwise away from the stop to see if the idle comes down. If nothing there, shut the engine off, open the throttle,look down the bore and see if the throttle plate is hitting the manifold, or something else. If all else remove the carburetor, examine from below to verify the plates are closing completely.
 
If it is not the butterfly valves it is an air leak.
 
Make sure the secondary butterfly is fully closed and that the actuating arm is not touching anything. Sometimes, even new carbs can be slightly out of adjustment. If the butterfly's, primary or secondary, are slightly cracked, you'll never get it to idle. Make sure they are seating properly in the barrel. Also, how's your timing? Not set too high is it?
 
Ensure the throttle isn't sticking - I had to put in a slightly stronger return spring, loosen the throttle a bit and lubricate it so it returned to the stop every time to stop my "B" revving as you describe.

Also check the fuel chamber float - sounds like it's set too high and is causing fuel to leak into the main jet ahead of time.

P.S. No problem hi-jacking my thread!
 
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