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Water pumps, clutch MC and a thank you

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Izual Angel

Jedi Trainee
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Well, in the time that the site was moving I managed to beat those water pumps apart. (And I got the one from you Steve, thank you
smile.gif
) Of those 3 only one had a good shaft.

Now for a question. Has anyone rebuilt a clutch master cylinder for a TR7? I pulled mine the other day because it was leaking and it's all nasty and brown inside (like rusty muck). Not that the firewall underneath it looks much better...
 
>> clutch master cylinder for a TR7

Yes surprisingly easy to get at as you've discovered and easy to rebuild as well as cheap.

Now for the bad news. The brown crud is corrosion and renders the cylinder fairly useless. Get a new one or have the old one re-sleeved. About the same cost.

If the master is corroded the slave will be too. Be sure to fix it and blow out the old fluid while you're at it.

If you are terminally broke as I was ten years ago when I tried it ....

You can buy two new rubber kits for the master and slave. Remove the old and use a fine 'brake hone' to smooth the bore inside [it's a $5 auto part tool that goes in an electric drill].

Get the bores as smooth as you can. Abandon the parts if you can't. By sight and feel the bore should be completely smooth.

Here's what happens if not. You can shift just fine if you pop the clutch up and down vigourously. But at a stop light the clutch cylinder will slowly leak and engage the drive. A bit spooky. From time to time if you don't top up, the clutch will fail entirely. It will leak.

As I said, this was the technique when I was terminally broke. Not longer after, being tired of 'phantom clutch', I spent $100 and got the right parts.

BTW - anyone who is thinking about using this el cheapo technique on the brake MC is nuts and richly deserves a darwin award.

[ 03-26-2004: Message edited by: MichaelF ]</p>
 
Well, Rimmer Bros has original ones, so I guess I'll save my shillings. Out of curiosity, where would one get that beast re-sleeved?
 
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