water pump small hole does line up

[RestoreThemAll]

Has anyone come across this problem yet? The small hole on my new water pump doesn't line up with the block hole. It looks like the pump body was cast wrong. See attached pics. There are other clues to bad fit but this is the most worrisome. If I install as is nearly half of the water flow will be cut off.

My old pump was a 1970s aftermarket, if memory serves. Should I try to have that rebuilt or try another new pump?

Dale

 

[BoyRacer]

I think you are going about this in the wrong way. You can't tell anything by the exterior of the casting. Use the water pump gasket to check the location of the hole in your new pump.

 

[RestoreThemAll]

I just used the gasket to check the location of the small hole in the waterpump. All holes line up perfectly on the old pump. The gasket covers up over 1/3 of the hole in the new pump.

Dale

 

[Bob_Spidell]

I give up ... What is the 'small hole' for? Is it the outlet for the bypass hole where the thermostat goes?

 

[Keoke]

I give up ... What is the 'small hole' for? Is it the outlet for the bypass hole where the thermostat goes?

I do not know either,.
But Dale just get a new pump and be good to go

 

[RestoreThemAll]

The small hole goes back into the block about an inch then takes a 90 degree turn up where it enters the head.

Agreed, order new pump number three. I'll then have four water pumps in the shop. The forth will have to work, right? No ones luck is that bad? layful:


Dale

 

[Bob_Spidell]

... No ones luck is that bad? layful: Dale

Nope ... mine is worse. Some might recall my miserable saga with a WP on a long road trip in 2014. In short:

1) Installed WP rebuilt by a real craftsman when replacing seal on timing cover
2) WP failed catastrophically after about 2K miles in Green River, WY (coolant gushing from pump)
3) Got motel room, had new WP overnighted from Moss
4) Change out pump in motel parking lot
5) Start engine, WP shaft breaks immediately and fan damages radiator
6) Overnight new WP and radiator ($900) from Moss, with special instructions to CHECK THE PUMP BEFORE SHIPPING FOR WEAK SHAFT (as indicated by side play in shaft)
7) WP arrives in Green River with BROKEN SHAFT
8) Trailer car home to CA
9) Return rebuilt pump to rebuilder, who determines rubber bellows on pump seal split, releasing copious amounts of green liquid

To Moss's credit, they made me (somewhat) whole but annual trip was cut short (first time in 20 years didn't complete trip)

Anyway, AFAIK the only WPs available are the notorious County brand; confirmed with Moss tech specialist that County has known quality issues. Original rebuilder--who was mortified but not at fault--sent another rebuilt pump at no charge to me, which I installed. Rebuilder also found original BJ8 pump on the shelf of a long-time rebuilder; I bought it and threw it in the boot. Also have an older County pump; produced before County began to have quality issues (it's telling to me that this pump has some numbers stamped on the shaft which the two failures did not). The pump I replaced when I did the timing cover seal was a County with over 60K miles on it but it appeared that something was starting to deteriorate inside the pump housing (rebuilder did an autopsy on the County pump as well--the seal was, well, funky).

The lesson: Good luck finding a 'new' pump of quality. I now have two pumps rebuilt with original housings; you'll notice the 'new' ones don't have the boss for the grease hole (or, if they do, it's not tapped for the fitting).

 

[RestoreThemAll]

Wow! That's a not so fun story Bob. It's scary to read but I'm glad that you posted. I have two brand new defective County WPs and a 1970s aftermarket. I already emailed the vendor, not Moss or Moss supplier.

I found an old note from British Car Specialists recommending the Flying Dutchman. They rebuild WP. I'll give them a call on Monday.

My BJ7 is looking like a show car but it won't be. I'm going to drive it. I want to be prepared.