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Water Pump install tomorrow

Basil

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Well, finally back from a two-week business trip and hope to get me new water pump installed in my Spit tomorrow. Looks like it should be a fairly simply job (I hope). Next job is to figure out why its leaking oil out of the "new" rear seal.

Basil
 
Oil leaks out of a new rear seal?? more likely a copper O ring was not used on THE bolt that was tapped through to the gallery( at the factory bless them)A regular washer here and you get a fine leak. Bummer, hope I am wrong......
MD(mad dog)
 
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by MDCanaday:
Oil leaks out of a new rear seal?? more likely a copper O ring was not used on THE bolt that was tapped through to the gallery( at the factory bless them)A regular washer here and you get a fine leak. Bummer, hope I am wrong......
MD(mad dog)
<hr></blockquote>

What hapen is, the thing doesn't leak when the car is running, only after I shut it off. After shutting the motor off, I get about 2 tablespoons full of oil that comes out in a stream in the area between the rear of the motor and the bellhousing.

I've heard somewhere that inadequate crankcase ventellation could be the problem. Anyone knoe anything about this and what you can do about it?

Basil
 
The best thing to do is to make sure there is adequate vacuum to the crankcase. I cooked up something where I had a "controlled leak" from the crankcase (via the valvecover) into the intake manifold...I actually pinched off the hose until I got it "just right" and that seemed to work best. I also tried to add an additional vent throught the fuel pump blanking plate, but that made things worse. I've seen folks drill a vent in the timing chain cover and vent it to a catch-can...not sure if that realy works though.
My 1500 was pushing about a quart and hour out of the same spot as your's until I got the vacuum worked out....after I got it fixed, I ran a four-hour enduro (with constant 5000 RPM+) and didn't use a drop....didn't leak afterwards either.
 
Bas,

You deffinately have a vacuum problem. I would suggest running a vent out of the side of your crankcase that should solve the problem. Not sure if doing one through the timing cover would work.

Cheers,
thirsty.gif
driving.gif

Walter

[ 02-27-2004: Message edited by: waltesefalcon ]</p>
 
Not sure what model you are speaking of, but I agree with previous posters, sounds like your building up pressure. If I remember correctly when I owned my first TR250 back in the 70's we took off the Gulp valve (PCV) and ran a hose down below the engine into the slipstream with a 45% angle cut with the lower part of the hose towards the front. As you drove the air passing beneath would suck out anything building up in the crankcase. May not meet EPA regs, but they don't even look under the hood on a lot of the older cars anyway.

p.s I meant to post this as a reply, not a new topic!!! duh...

[ 02-26-2004: Message edited by: gjh ]</p>
 
The building up pressure thing sounds logical since I've installed two new rear seals and still have the same problem. Now if I can figure out what to do about it on my car. I don't think I have a PVC valve any more. The only vent I have from crankcase to the outside workd is a line that runs from my valve cover outlet into my Webbers (actually into my air breather)

Basil
 
Bas,

Its not a terribly hard job to drill a hole in the block and install a vent if you are confident. All you have to do is make a 1" hole between oil and water galleries, drill and tap a hole on either side then take a peice of tubing bend it at a 90 degree angle down and about 30-45 degrees back and make sure the tube is long enough to go below the bottomw of the engine. Then weld a small mounting plate to your tube and bolt it onto the block.

Cheers,
thirsty.gif
driving.gif

Walter

P.S. of course not everyone is as crazy as I am.
 
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