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General Tech Water Pump and Pulley Replacement

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KVH

KVH

Obi Wan
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It can’t be more than 3 years old, and it’s leaking. I’d like to remove it without removing the radiator this time. Question: Assuming I get the pump off and back on without any major issue, what about getting that pulley back on? There’s no room to swing a rubber hammer or otherwise “tap” the pulley back over the woodruff key. Unless really light tapping is all it takes. Should I just resign to remove the radiator or does any of you have experience on making this little task easy?

I once had a pulley go on really easy, only binding slightly on the key, but I understand it’s supposed to be snug.

I’m also wondering the best way to hold the pulley still while I retighten the locknut on the shaft. My air drill won’t fit, but I could try just binding it with the fan belt. Would a strap wrench do much good?

Any thoughts appreciated.
 
KVH said:
It can’t be more than 3 years old, and it’s leaking. I’d like to remove it without removing the radiator this time. Question: Assuming I get the pump off and back on without any major issue, what about getting that pulley back on? There’s no room to swing a rubber hammer or otherwise “tap” the pulley back over the woodruff key. Unless really light tapping is all it takes. Should I just resign to remove the radiator or does any of you have experience on making this little task easy?

I once had a pulley go on really easy, only binding slightly on the key, but I understand it’s supposed to be snug.

I’m also wondering the best way to hold the pulley still while I retighten the locknut on the shaft. My air drill won’t fit, but I could try just binding it with the fan belt. Would a strap wrench do much good?

Any thoughts appreciated.
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The pump and pulley come off together. You then can separate the pulley from the old pump. Put it on the new pump ( hopefully it fits appropriately) and then install them as a unit.
Charley
 
Sure makes sense, and memory can fail, but wasn’t there some issue of clearance on both the fastening nuts/studs and the long bolt shown in the shop manual, if you didn’t remove the pulley first, and maybe same issue on reinstall where the pulley should go on last? Lack of clearance to manipulate and tighten the nuts?

BTW, my setup has three studs and nuts, and the long bolt shown in the manual, referring to “two” such bolts, does not exist on my TR4A. Maybe a change after the TR4.

(I’m going to order a new water pump. I’m not comfortable I could rebuild successfully)
 
The replacement of the long bolt with a stud is an intelligent former owner handywork.
Charley
 
FYI, I’ve removed the fastening nuts for the water pump, but the gasket sealer is holding like a weld. So far, putty knives and light chisels have done nothing. I’m sure I’ll get the pump off, but it’s going to be a process. Next time I’ll be sure to use Permatex High Tack or something like that.
 
Make sure that the key slots in the shaft and the pulley are the same width. OE was 1/8 inch and my last replacement pump had a 3mm slot in the shaft.
Bob
 
Remember if the pump is trash, you can be more aggressive with what you use as long as you are hitting the pump itself.
Charley
 
I have replaced the smaller pump part and left the housing in place and purchased a new pump and pulley, so I knew they would match up.
 
I would avoid trying to wedge something like a chisel between the pump and housing, you’ll just screw up the mating surface. Try hitting the pump with a plastic faced dead blow hammer.
 
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