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water in the oil

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Since the coolant is denser than the oil, wouldn't it collect on the bottom of the pan, then be pumped up to the top?
 
As stated later than your post, John, the oil pump picks it up and "distributes" it. That's how you get "milkshake" motors, homogenizes it through the pump gears over time.
 
I'll go along with Randall and Andrew regarding Alumaseal. For a few bucks it might solve the problem and if not your not out a lot. I usually add a bit of the stuff to the cooling system after disturbing hoses or something else in the system as it tends to solve those little weaping leaks. Good luck.
 
Darrell_Walker said:
Since the coolant is denser than the oil, wouldn't it collect on the bottom of the pan, then be pumped up to the top?
Click to expand...

It definitely will, but then I would expect it to be completely milky white, instead of the green in the pic. Anything that's been through the pan is treated just like a milkshake, like in the pics of the oil.
 
Then again, looking closer at the pic under the valve cover...it is hard to say whether it's more green than white. You may be right...

John
 
The "milkshake" is an emulsion, which will separate over time.
 

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Sorry, I don't recall. Someone else's trouble, posted on a BBS somewhere. I just thought it was an interesting photo. Title is "What you never want to see".
 
There was zero oil in the water, so I changed the oil and filter, reset the valves, and put in some new age miracle in a bottle. This stuff is supposed to mix with anti- freeze and is left in the engine. It sounds too good to be true. I have shopped at the same auto parts store for years and these are old school car guys and they are impressed with the stuff. Can said, putt it in and idle for 5 minutes then let it cool. I will wait until morning. I guess they did not know to have a tr3 idle for 5 minutes is challenging. It idled right at 170 and then climbed to 180 right at the end, may be 7 minutes. This car has got Andy’s radiator and Mick’s fan so if your people wanted to pray you would be praying for the greater good, not just for my selfish needs. This could the universe telling me I only need one tr3.
steve
 

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Hey...may work great! Jaguar actually recommended using a radiator stop leak annually on their V12's. Worked great for leaks, but clogged the radiator after a few years if you kept using it as they recommended. One shot may be perfect!

John
 
Thanks Andy and John for your positive words. I have not started the vehicle back up out distress. Yes John, I understand that stop leak in some form is put in on the assembly of aluminum engines, and that some of those early orange colored antifreezes were designed to stop leaking on V6s by GM. Stop leak is something I advise others not use. I would say by a new radiator or heater or fix the leak. Stop leak seems like it is for a stop gap measure on a half dead car. This is an Engine I have many hours into and much money and putting the leak product in was agonizing. If it does work, I would not trust the vehicle for a long trip. My theory is one of culminating ideas. I think the head gasket was too thin, the engine block surface was too flawed, so that the sleeves on the lifter side of the block coupled with a thinner gasket allowed the compression chambers to seal, but did not permit the matting of the head and block next to them. I would not be surprised to find the water in the head slowly bled down just sitting. Pulling the head and finding a good quality gasket is what I should have been done, but I opted for the easy way out because the old radiator and heater might benefit if the product does work as they maintain, and plus it could be a crack, I do not know. However, when I got that gasket kit, I did not like the quality and used it any. The valve cover gasket was so thin; it would not seal and I bought another from a local shop that still works on old English stuff. so go figure.
steve
 
Don't feel badly about adding it. I rebuilt my first big block Chevy...a monster 460 CI 750 HP that I put months into. Everything was spot-on tolerance. It leaked like a seive. Took it all apart and painstakingly reassembled using thread sealant on every stud...but it still leaked! Finally learned that stop leak was standard practice on the old big blocks before the initial run.

So if a single shot works...don't feel bad at all. Like anything, just don't go overboard adding it. Be sure to let us know the results...

John
 
Bar's Leaks has been around for decades, it was "old school" when I started wrenching as a teenager.
 
I left the heater in the system, mostly out of frustration. Do you guys think I should bye pass it for a while until this stuff finds its places to stop? My concern is that the heater sits up higher than the rest of the cooling system and might act as trap.
Steve
 
Steve-

Personally I'd bypass it until you get it sorted - if anything it will help down the road if you start pressure testing.

I've lost track here a bit, but have you considered dropping the pan yet? That coupled with a pressure test might pinpoint if the leak is on the topside or through the figure 8 gaskets.

Randy
 
Thanks Randy that is good advice. I like a plan with options and foresight. If this was someone else’s problem, I could think better. Yes, now that I have it at least tentative running I can move to a better location where dropping the pan would not be that big a deal. It has been up in a dirt floor garage/barn that is full of stuff and bad lighting.

steve
 
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