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T-Series Victoria British: Borg n' Beck Clutch kit on sale
- Thread starter 647F
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tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Bet my 'normal' price is less than their sale price...
kennypinkerton
Yoda
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sounds like a hydraulics problem rather than the clutch itself.
Stewart
Darth Vader
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Re: Victoria British: Borg n' Beck Clutch kit on s
[ QUOTE ]
Watch out for that "first step". It's a LULU:
"Remove engine and transmission as a unit."
[/ QUOTE ]
Followed by while the engine's out I'll spiffy up this and that and then low and behold the car's in many many pieces. Then after mucho denero spent you finally put the 200 dollar clutch in /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
[ QUOTE ]
Watch out for that "first step". It's a LULU:
"Remove engine and transmission as a unit."
[/ QUOTE ]
Followed by while the engine's out I'll spiffy up this and that and then low and behold the car's in many many pieces. Then after mucho denero spent you finally put the 200 dollar clutch in /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
kennypinkerton
Yoda
Offline
Re: Victoria British: Borg n' Beck Clutch kit on s
Yeah, you can't forget all the "might as well's" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Yeah, you can't forget all the "might as well's" /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
kennypinkerton
Yoda
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Re: Victoria British: Borg n' Beck Clutch kit on s
I have more might as well's to do on my daily drivers than the stuff just sitting in the front yard for the past 4 months. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
I have more might as well's to do on my daily drivers than the stuff just sitting in the front yard for the past 4 months. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
[ QUOTE ]
Bet my 'normal' price is less than their sale price...
[/ QUOTE ]
thier price, with tool, was 129.00, i ended up finding a clutch here in Sacto, so i will pay full price, due to the aformentioned daily issue, and to red label it is about $55.00
btw i am eying some stuff on your site and did drop you an email, but never heard back from you...
Bet my 'normal' price is less than their sale price...
[/ QUOTE ]
thier price, with tool, was 129.00, i ended up finding a clutch here in Sacto, so i will pay full price, due to the aformentioned daily issue, and to red label it is about $55.00
btw i am eying some stuff on your site and did drop you an email, but never heard back from you...
kennypinkerton
Yoda
Offline
PM him here... He's had a few problems with his email servers during the past couple months.
Re: Victoria British: Borg n' Beck Clutch kit on s
[ QUOTE ]
I have more might as well's to do on my daily drivers than the stuff just sitting in the front yard for the past 4 months. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
[/ QUOTE ]
the TD is not running yet. I could get out my '17 model T racecar, but a 4" straight pipe firing up at 0515 am might make me a few enemies real quick like... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
[ QUOTE ]
I have more might as well's to do on my daily drivers than the stuff just sitting in the front yard for the past 4 months. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
[/ QUOTE ]
the TD is not running yet. I could get out my '17 model T racecar, but a 4" straight pipe firing up at 0515 am might make me a few enemies real quick like... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif
Re: Victoria British: Borg n' Beck Clutch kit on s
[ QUOTE ]
Watch out for that "first step". It's a LULU:
"Remove engine and transmission as a unit."
[/ QUOTE ]
Yea, but the real b**** is the last step:
"Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly." /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif
Bruce /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
[ QUOTE ]
Watch out for that "first step". It's a LULU:
"Remove engine and transmission as a unit."
[/ QUOTE ]
Yea, but the real b**** is the last step:
"Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly." /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif
Bruce /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
kennypinkerton
Yoda
Offline
Re: Victoria British: Borg n' Beck Clutch kit on s
Yeha, I hate that one. Just as bad as "remove any other bolts and hoses as needed"
Yeha, I hate that one. Just as bad as "remove any other bolts and hoses as needed"
Offline
Re: Victoria British: Borg n' Beck Clutch kit on s
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
sounds like a hydraulics problem rather than the clutch itself.
[/ QUOTE ]
there was still hydraulic pressure...and it would still disengage (kinda...but i had to put the pedal to the floor, and then I was really pushing on the synchros...)
[/ QUOTE ]
This is a second vote for being certain it is NOT hydraulics related before you go through the unit R&R... If you (generally) have a clutch failure, it'll slip like crazy. When they fail to disengage, or do it "down low" or if you can pump the pedal and change where it'll release, THAT is hydraulics. I *have* seen them come apart, "fingers" get down in the works, but then you get (again:USUALLY) a clutch pedal more like a brake! i.e. rock hard at the top.
I'm not tryin' to be a smeartarse here, rather trying to make sure you "spend no money before it's time."
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
sounds like a hydraulics problem rather than the clutch itself.
[/ QUOTE ]
there was still hydraulic pressure...and it would still disengage (kinda...but i had to put the pedal to the floor, and then I was really pushing on the synchros...)
[/ QUOTE ]
This is a second vote for being certain it is NOT hydraulics related before you go through the unit R&R... If you (generally) have a clutch failure, it'll slip like crazy. When they fail to disengage, or do it "down low" or if you can pump the pedal and change where it'll release, THAT is hydraulics. I *have* seen them come apart, "fingers" get down in the works, but then you get (again:USUALLY) a clutch pedal more like a brake! i.e. rock hard at the top.
I'm not tryin' to be a smeartarse here, rather trying to make sure you "spend no money before it's time."
Re: Victoria British: Borg n' Beck Clutch kit on s
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
sounds like a hydraulics problem rather than the clutch itself.
[/ QUOTE ]
there was still hydraulic pressure...and it would still disengage (kinda...but i had to put the pedal to the floor, and then I was really pushing on the synchros...)
[/ QUOTE ]
This is a second vote for being certain it is NOT hydraulics related before you go through the unit R&R... If you (generally) have a clutch failure, it'll slip like crazy. When they fail to disengage, or do it "down low" or if you can pump the pedal and change where it'll release, THAT is hydraulics. I *have* seen them come apart, "fingers" get down in the works, but then you get (again:USUALLY) a clutch pedal more like a brake! i.e. rock hard at the top.
I'm not tryin' to be a smeartarse here, rather trying to make sure you "spend no money before it's time."
[/ QUOTE ]
I have never had a clutch fail on me, so i do not know what i should be feeling. This is what happened:
For the past few weeks the (off on and for a few years) the clutch pedal will pulsate during depression, in a sense, kind of chattery.
Last night i came into a R hand corner at 3500 in 4th, got on the brakes dropped the r's to about 2750, went to drop into 3rd, punched the clutch (only about 3" travel) went into 3rd, and then the pedal went to the floor. It became real rough and nasty feeling (grating?)
At that point the actuation was very limited (pedal to the floor: the car stil rolled forward, engine loading up)
I had to push the pedal all the way down to get anything to happen.
I went to move it this morning, started it up, punched the pedal down to the floor, moved it, went to push the pedal down, this time it went to the floor, 1st gear engaged, took my foot off the pedal and the car did not move, engine idling, no go...no pedal pressure, nada.
There is also no fluid left in the clutch reservior, i assume that if the clutch failed, went it went to the floor, the rubber boot on the slave cylinder probably failed.
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
sounds like a hydraulics problem rather than the clutch itself.
[/ QUOTE ]
there was still hydraulic pressure...and it would still disengage (kinda...but i had to put the pedal to the floor, and then I was really pushing on the synchros...)
[/ QUOTE ]
This is a second vote for being certain it is NOT hydraulics related before you go through the unit R&R... If you (generally) have a clutch failure, it'll slip like crazy. When they fail to disengage, or do it "down low" or if you can pump the pedal and change where it'll release, THAT is hydraulics. I *have* seen them come apart, "fingers" get down in the works, but then you get (again:USUALLY) a clutch pedal more like a brake! i.e. rock hard at the top.
I'm not tryin' to be a smeartarse here, rather trying to make sure you "spend no money before it's time."
[/ QUOTE ]
I have never had a clutch fail on me, so i do not know what i should be feeling. This is what happened:
For the past few weeks the (off on and for a few years) the clutch pedal will pulsate during depression, in a sense, kind of chattery.
Last night i came into a R hand corner at 3500 in 4th, got on the brakes dropped the r's to about 2750, went to drop into 3rd, punched the clutch (only about 3" travel) went into 3rd, and then the pedal went to the floor. It became real rough and nasty feeling (grating?)
At that point the actuation was very limited (pedal to the floor: the car stil rolled forward, engine loading up)
I had to push the pedal all the way down to get anything to happen.
I went to move it this morning, started it up, punched the pedal down to the floor, moved it, went to push the pedal down, this time it went to the floor, 1st gear engaged, took my foot off the pedal and the car did not move, engine idling, no go...no pedal pressure, nada.
There is also no fluid left in the clutch reservior, i assume that if the clutch failed, went it went to the floor, the rubber boot on the slave cylinder probably failed.
Offline
Re: Victoria British: Borg n' Beck Clutch kit on s
Okay, now we're startin' to get "better intel".
Start with the hydraulics. Slave cylinder is the most likely suspect. I'd bet you could go to the local NAPA store and find the guy who'll sell you a cup to fit the bore for $2, and a brake cylinder hone for $10. The master cylinder kit may need to be ordered thru VB or... TONY!!
Bottom line: Fix the easy stuff first. INSURE the hydraulic system is at 100%, no air etc. THEN start looking at the big expensive, time consuming stuff when you KNOW it ain't the hydraulics.
Just my opinion, but if I were there it's what I'd be doing.
Okay, now we're startin' to get "better intel".
Start with the hydraulics. Slave cylinder is the most likely suspect. I'd bet you could go to the local NAPA store and find the guy who'll sell you a cup to fit the bore for $2, and a brake cylinder hone for $10. The master cylinder kit may need to be ordered thru VB or... TONY!!
Bottom line: Fix the easy stuff first. INSURE the hydraulic system is at 100%, no air etc. THEN start looking at the big expensive, time consuming stuff when you KNOW it ain't the hydraulics.
Just my opinion, but if I were there it's what I'd be doing.