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Vibration at 35mph - cause, thoughts, HELP?

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So I got her up to 55 or so before the rattling started. Much improved. I can see I still need a little more tuning done on the carbs. I'll pull the shaft to have it balanced. Maybe eliminate a little more of the vibration. Still not sure if I'll install the 2 degree shims. I'll try to get under and research the alignment angles to see if they are parallel or what. For now, at least I can drive it around town. Not freeway worthy yet, but close.
 
just so you know, mine has a vibration that happens around that speed, in the area of 50 to 55, then goes away as I go faster. I think it's some sort of harmonic thing, but haven't really looked into it. I know it's raining again, but when the roads dry out, go ahead an take it up to 65 mph and see if it's still there?
 
Very cool -

Now the vibration could be one of the little things others have mentioned.
Bad U-joints will definitely cause some bad shaking, so getting that fixed was probably most of your solution. Now what's the rest? I know you have nice wheels on there, but are they all balanced right? Did you ever check that?
Now that the bad shaking is gone you should be able to find the sources of the rest, as long as the other was there there's no way you could find the "small" stuff.
 
I just had this thought about the vibration as well.. the wheels are lug centric, not hub centric. How were they balanced?
 
How long has it been sittin' on those tires?

Vibration at wheel or engine speed?
 
Pythias said:
I just had this thought about the vibration as well.. the wheels are lug centric, not hub centric. How were they balanced?
Click to expand...

I understand this - what does it mean in terms of actual balancing? can the tires still be balanced at a regular shop?
 
Great looking car. Ever think about lowering the front a tad? I did the spacer under the A arm trick and it's fast and easy and cheap what a difference in stance and handling (although the handling "improvement" may well be a placebo thing but I don't think so, it really feels like it made a difference).
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/560923/4

Only issue now is ground clearance, my exhaust will hit once in a while after catching some air over bumps at high speeds....could slow down.....nah.
 
There are VERY few shops left that can actually do a proper job. ..

If you see them shove the wheel on a cone and spin a dooh-dah to lock it in place as if it were a knock off wheel, they aren't doing it correctly. The hole in center of the wheel is not necessarily the true spin center of the wheel. They need to have an attachment they mount the wheels using the four bolt holes, Or the ability to do spin balancing while the wheel is still on the car. I still haven't found a shop nearby that can do it correctly, and have only seen on machine (in a shed in the back of a guys shop, half buried) that has the attachment.
 
JPSmit said:
Pythias said:
I just had this thought about the vibration as well.. the wheels are lug centric, not hub centric. How were they balanced?
Click to expand...

I understand this - what does it mean in terms of actual balancing? can the tires still be balanced at a regular shop?
Click to expand...

Regular shops machiine are hubcentric. You can use these machine but you have to have an "adapter". My buddy has a machine and I was able to balance mine once w/ my old ones, but can't get my new set to settle down. Once you break them loose after a balance, it'll be out if you put it back on the machine even though nothing has changed.

I need to make an adapter from an old front hub. I think we need to make one up for "memember use" here. Whoever needs it, last user will send it to them. That memember will be custodian over it till the next time it's needed and so on. USPS $4.95 flat rate box should do.

My buddy has a lathe too. I've been meaning to make one. Only problem is, I need a spare hub.

If someone can get me one, I can get the ball rolling.

Two would be even better.
 
I have an extra pair of front rotors - is that hub enough?
 
WOW... sorry, guys...I've been slacking on this thread. The tires are new and balanced by Discount Tire utilizing the "cone" method. The front is now lowered and looking and handling much better (tho I do get the occasional tire rub too). If I were to get this adapter, is it something I could take to any tire shop to use? I have Christmas company, so time on the car right now is in short supply. I'll sneak out there when I can and start playing. Maybe send everyone Christmas shopping and feign an inllness.... :pukeface:
 
kellysguy said:
How long has it been sittin' on those tires?

Vibration at wheel or engine speed?
Click to expand...

Seems to be driveline. I can put it in neutral and the vibration is still there. It's not a violent vibration. More like sitting in a massage chair (which might be a bonus!) at 55 mph.
 
JPSmit said:
I have an extra pair of front rotors - is that hub enough?
Click to expand...

I thought about trying to make some from rotors but it would be easier/more accurate from hubs. It would be almost like balancing them on the car.

I've thought about lowering, but mine is a daily driver and I want to make sure my bumpers are as high as other cars, especially SUV's. :eeek:
 
Bill,

Does the lug centric rule hold true for after market wheels like Ed has or is that only true for the stock spridget steels and Rostyle's? I thought since Ed was running the Panasport's he was OK to have them balanced using the cone.

Rich Ball
'76 Midget
Everett, WA
 
RichBall said:
Bill,

Does the lug centric rule hold true for after market wheels like Ed has or is that only true for the stock spridget steels and Rostyle's? I thought since Ed was running the Panasport's he was OK to have them balanced using the cone.

Rich Ball
'76 Midget
Everett, WA
Click to expand...

I didn't realize he was running Panasports but yes, you're right. He should be fine w/ the regular method w/ those.

I think that's not his problem as he states it feels like a massaging chair which should be a drivline vibe.
 
I believe it's just the stock wheels. After market SHOULD be hub centric, but you'd have to ask the manufacturer....?
 
Maybe 2 or 4 of us could go in on a set of 4X100 wheel adapters. Those will work w/ the cones. Should run about $30-35 apiece. Anyone interested?
 
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