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Vapor Lock, Out of Gas, Hmm, Ahh, Don't know?

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As I mentioned in this (or the other thread), I used the Moss cleaner and coating about 18 years ago and it's still fine. Of course it may fail next week. Our gas out here only comes with ethanol now, 10% IIRC; it used to only come with MTBE.
 
We used Bill Hirsch products on my BJ8's tank many--maybe 20--years ago and have had no problems, even with the various blends (MTBE, ethanol, skunk urine, etc.) that come through California.
 
Thanks for the Bill Hirsch reference, I hadn't heard of them before. Their sealer specifically states "alcohol resistant", which makes me feel a lot better about buying it. They also have a surface prep solution. I don't recall using anything like that on the Sunbeam. I'm not saying there wasn't one available, and we didn't use it, I just don't remember! I do remember how much work it took to convince ourselves it was clean and properly rinsed. Jim
 
Jim 58 BN6 said:
Thanks for the Bill Hirsch reference, I hadn't heard of them before. Their sealer specifically states "alcohol resistant", which makes me feel a lot better about buying it. They also have a surface prep solution. I don't recall using anything like that on the Sunbeam. I'm not saying there wasn't one available, and we didn't use it, I just don't remember! I do remember how much work it took to convince ourselves it was clean and properly rinsed. Jim
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I used the same stuff back in the mid '70's and I believe the directions said to put gravel inside the tank and rotate the tank several times to roughen up the surface and then coat the inside of the tank. To make a long story short, it seemed to work for a few years, at least 6 or 7, then a piece came loose and lodged itself you in my fuel line between the tank and pump. I ended up getting having a radiator shop clean out the tank. I will never use any type of tank sealer again!
 
Ethanol is a solvent so not sure how it reacts with stuff older than a few years. Reason all gas lines should be replaced on cars. The tanks build up a residue over time from gas that had been pumped in before ethanol as added then the new better gas came about in 2006 or so and then ethanol dissolves them causing them to become suspended in the fuel ready to enter the lines and gum up the fuel system. Used to take samples of gas from the boat and because of open system the residue in bottom was grime, water and who knows what else.
 
CaptRandy said:
Ethanol is a solvent so not sure how it reacts with stuff older than a few years. ....
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Some simple chemistry: All liquids are solvents. Generally, they are divided into what are called polar solvents and non-polar solvents. Methanol, ethanol and water are polar solvents, meaning they have a positive charge on one end of the molecule and a negative charge on the other end. Most hydrocarbons (gasoline, Stoddard, diesel, paint thinner, oil) are non-polar solvents. Hence, water and ethanol mix, and gasoline and water mostly don't.

Detergents and soaps have a polar end and a non-polar end. That's why they allow some mixing of oil and water to clean greasy and oily parts and hands.
 
Patrick67BJ8 said:
I used the same stuff back in the mid '70's and I believe the directions said to put gravel inside the tank and rotate the tank several times to roughen up the surface and then coat the inside of the tank. To make a long story short, it seemed to work for a few years, at least 6 or 7, then a piece came loose and lodged itself you in my fuel line between the tank and pump. I ended up getting having a radiator shop clean out the tank. I will never use any type of tank sealer again!
Click to expand...

We did the gravel thing too. I just didn't want to admit it! Jim
 
When we used the Hirsch product we used an etching liquid--no gravel--to prep the tank. Maybe that made the difference. Also, the tank was new and I suspect it's hit-or-miss with a used tank. Also did the same with the new tank for the BN2 and so far, so good (only been a few years and a few hundred miles).
 
Bob_Spidell said:
When we used the Hirsch product we used an etching liquid--no gravel--to prep the tank. Maybe that made the difference. Also, the tank was new and I suspect it's hit-or-miss with a used tank. Also did the same with the new tank for the BN2 and so far, so good (only been a few years and a few hundred miles).
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the original tanks were probably a plain steel surface and were probe to rust but maybe the new MOSS tanks with their zinc coating will be a better bet. Funny, I can remember good used tanks selling for more money than the new tanks MOSS is selling.
 
Vette

Eye ball the low tension wire from the coil to the dizzy - in particular the end connections - I had a spate of cutting out after running a while and found an intermittent fault. The wire had broken/corroded inside the insulation at the dizzy end, for some reason after the engine cooled a little it would start up again.
Good luck

:cheers:

Bob
 
Thanks Bob, I'm pretty sure all the wires related to the engine running are in excellent shape, they look like they just came off a Toyota or Mercedes assembly line. (that should mean quality to most people) :smile: But I have looked them over as well. Here's the final answer ( I hope). The wife and I just took a 3 hour run up thru the Mountains yesterday and it was a beautiful trip, the Healey ran spot on. The nominal outside temp was in the 90* F.
 
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