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General TR Valvoline VR-1 20W-50 or Straight SAE 50 for OD Tranny?

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RJS

RJS

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Hey All,

I'm almost sorry to bring this up...but, here goes...

I have often seen Valvoline VR1 20W-50 recommended for the Triumph A-Type OD tranny. So, I went down to my FLAPS today and they stocked this. However, they also stock a straight weight SAE 50.

Any idea if the straight 50 weight would work better or worse in the OD tranny? My priority is smooth shifts. I rarely use the OD and I never use it before the car is fully warmed up. I drive April to November when the temps are generally above 45 degrees F.

I've used a straight SAE 30 weight in the past (non-detergent) with mixed results. The 2nd to 3rd gear shifts definitely became "notchy" when warm/hot. Otherwise, I was happy with it.

When I bought the car (13 years ago), the PO had been using 80W/90 gear oil, which performed extremely well, other than it was gear oil (and the sulfur issues therein).

Thanks

Bob
 
IMO the VR1 20W50 will work better. The ZDDP acts as an EP additive to help protect the thrust washers; and the multi-viscosity (20W) make it much easier to shift when cold.

Personally, I use Redline MT-90, which is GL4 gear oil but has none of the sulfur additive. It is also optimized for use in manual transmissions. OD operation remained about the same, but it made a very noticeable difference in shifting the main box, for me.
 
MT-90 here, too.
Seemed to me that it took some driving before the gears were completely coated with the oil. In other words I didn't see an immediate difference, but eventually changing gears seemed to go smoother.
 
Sorry, just to be clear, the SAE 50 weight was a Valvoline VR-1 as well. So, between the VR-1, I was curious which would be the better choice: the 20W-50 or straight 50?

I just had MT-90 in there but, it seeped/ leaked, and when it got really hot, the 2nd to 3rd shift became slightly "notchy" as well.

For me, the 80W-90 gear oil that was originally in there performed perfectly. But, I just don't want to go back to gear oil with the harmful sulfur content.

Bob
 
I put some synthetic in my OD transmission, early-type, and now I can hear gear noise in the lower gears.:frown-new::frown-new::frown-new:
 
This weekend I'll fill 'er with VR-1 20W-50 and let know what I think. At that point, I will have gone from GL4 to SAE 30 to MT-90 to 20W-50. Who knows? I guess it's all about finding what works best for your tranny.

Bob
 
20w-50 oils 20w when cold and 50 when hot. 50w is 50 cold or hot. Use the 20-50 or MTL90 or as most LBCs suggested and lubricant specs from different British companies suggested same oil as in motor.
 
RJS said:
This weekend I'll fill 'er with VR-1 20W-50 and let know what I think. At that point, I will have gone from GL4 to SAE 30 to MT-90 to 20W-50. Who knows? I guess it's all about finding what works best for your tranny.

Bob
Click to expand...
Good luck, Bob. But I'll be really surprised if you find that the VR1 works better than MT-90.

And just in case it got overlooked; Triumph specifically recommended GL4 gear oil for use in this gearbox, whether or not OD was fitted, for all of the 15 years or so that it was produced.

MT-90 is GL4, specifically designed to improve operation in manual gearboxes ...
 
Hi all,

I'm reporting back on my post in case any are interested. Well, I have driven about 100 miles now with the VR-1 20W-50 and surprise, surprise, it's performing better than SAE 30 or MT-90. The shifting is on par when I had real GL-4 gear lube in the tranny.

So, in my experience, the best to least best in order based on smoothness and speed of shifts (especially 2nd to 3rd gear) is as follows:
1. Valvoline VR-1 20W-50 or actual GL-4
2. Redline MT-90
3. SAE 30 non detergent

So, I guess it may come down to each individual OD tranny as to what performs best.

Let the debate continue!

Bob
 
When I bought my 1958 TR3A brand new, the manuals recommended straight 30 grade (non-detergent) engine oil for the gearbox with overdrive. In 80,350 miles, with this oil, I had to re-build the gearbox twice (lower straight cut lay shaft both times). Starting in 1990, I have used Valvoline 20W50 R for 111,000 miles at the recommendation of Ken Gillanders of So. Calif.
 
RJS said:
Well, I have driven about 100 miles now with the VR-1 20W-50 and surprise, surprise, it's performing better than SAE 30 or MT-90. The shifting is on par when I had real GL-4 gear lube in the tranny.
Click to expand...

Just for clarity, MT-90 is "real GL-4". It just doesn't use the additive package that can erode yellow metal.
 
I think Don is using Valvoline 20W-50 Racing (VV851) which is somewhat different than VR1. It has more Zinc additive than VR1 and is labeled as not being street legal because of harmful effects to the catalytic converter. Since we don't run catalytic convertors, I use it as an engine oil also.
Robert
 
The formulations have changed several times in recent years, but at least at the moment, the NSL stuff is listed as having the same zinc content as VR1. The primary difference, as I understand it, is that VR1 has more detergents (hence more suitable for motor oil on the street); while NSL is intended for real race engines that get their oil changed after just a few hundred miles at most. But Valvoline calls them both "racing oil", which is confusing to say the least.
 
Information from Valvoline indicates a higher level of calcium in the "not street legal" racing oil. Perhaps it is the calcium compound that is harmful to the catalytic converter. The Valvoline pamphlet quote, "Because Valvoline Racing Oil is optimized for racing conditions, it should not be used in passenger vehicles. Using this oil in a passenger car may damage the catalytic convertor over time". I use a non detergent oil for break in on some engines and have not seen the warning label "not street legal" on any of the non detergents, so must be something in Valvoline Racing oil that the converter is not happy with.
 
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