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TR6 Valvoline VR-1 20-50 conventional vs. synthetic

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bunzil

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I've been running VR-1 in my TR-6 for many years and now see it's offered, in the same weight, with the same zinc benefit, in synthetic. I'm always reluctant to mess with proven fluids in the car, but synthetic seems like a no-brainer. Anyone have any thoughts to share?
 
I’ve been using Penn Grade 20-50 Synthetic Blend for years with no issues. It’s not full synthetic so not sure if that helps you.
 
The hard truth is that they sell as synthetic, an oil that has been super refined to
the "standard" of synthetic. Better but not quite best. Still ya need the zinc so Vr-1 it is.
I doubt if any one really wants to pay for racing synthetic oil in a street motor.
We ran Amsoil racing synthetic, it was 13$ /Qt . Worth it for a racing motor in a long race.(12 hr)
Mad dog
 
Valid point. I also change the oil annually and seldom reach much over 1k miles. Plus VR1 synthetic is twice the price. Tks
 
I have stuck with the vr1 mineral and the car loves it. I put it through some extremes too
I do change at time rather than mileage tho
I don’t need these high mileage between oil change oils.

Few years ago I tried synthetic in my Daimler sp250.
It didn’t hold oil pressure so immediately went back to mineral and all was good
 
Because my TR4 is garaged out of state where I cannot work on it myself, it is maintained by a mechanic who is a British-car specialist, and he recommends what had been called Joe Gibbs Driven HR15W‑50 high-performance synthetic motor oil that is good for long‑term storage and old engines requiring a high ZDP level and that would be changed every five thousand miles or ten years. (It is now called Driven DI50 > DI50 SAE 15W-50 | Quart <.) He says that it had been developed for vehicles such as National Guard tanks that spend more time in storage than in operation, much as some of our little British cars do.
 
I have several vintage cars and 4x4 trucks. While all are used regularly, I usually wind up changing the oil only annually due to fairly low mileage. I don’t waste my money on synthetic oil, as my concern is not with the oil breaking down, but with moisture in my fairly damp coastal environment. For the same reason, I change my differential oil every two years, having seen the damaging “high water line” a ring gear can get from moisture (especially important in the trucks that occasionally see high water crossings). Here also, I don’t use synthetic, as the extended drain intervals would just result in more moisture accumulation. I do use synthetic oil in my transmissions and transfer cases, but that’s because my elderly synchros seem to like it. I still follow a two year flush interval though, especially to keep the TR’s overdrive internals as clean as possible.

Back to the original question, I am also a big fan of 20/50W VR-1 in all my old junk…but would never get anywhere near the extended drain intervals needed to justify the price of the synthetic version.

Just my personal opinion,
Tom
 
Save your money, we drive more than most 20/50 conventional with zinc for my '72 seeing the difference color, honey in black out, at each oil change is enough for me to R&R oil/filter minimum 2-3 times a year, newest car here is 2012 which I don't use synthetic in conventional changed minimum twice a year oil changes, no matter how many, are cheaper than engine rebuilds
 
Thanks all, especially Julius who I recall spending time with in the '80s with SCTOA in So Cal. I'll stick with conventional VR-1. Much appreciated.
 
U R Welcome Ed;) SCTOA the good ole days, owned by & driven same TR6 over 47 yrs 411,283 miles 40+ on conventional Castrol 20/50w when they stopped zinc switched to conventional VR1 switching back to conventional Castrol Classic 20/50 with zinc. Were we to feel synthetic was better suited for 50+ old cast iron engine would've long switched so we staying with the formula that continues to work for us, conventional oil + frequent oil/filter changes & Driving
 
tr6nitjulius said:
U R Welcome Ned;) SCTOA the good ole days, owned by & driven same TR6 over 47 yrs 411,283 miles 40+ on conventional Castrol 20/50w when they stopped zinc switched to conventional VR1 switching back to conventional Castrol Classic 20/50 with zinc. Were we to feel synthetic was better suited for 50+ old cast iron engine would've long switched so we staying with the formula that continues to work for us, conventional oil + frequent oil/filter changes & Driving
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