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Valve adjustment basics - help please

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ichthos

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I have finally got my car together, and I am busy making adjustments. I need help ajusting the valves. In my book it says," when valve No. 8 is fully open, check and adjust valve No 1." Wouldn't the valve be fully open when the pushrod is at its highest?
Thanks, Kevin
 
You want to adjust when they are closed and there isn't any load on the push rods. Yes, when the pushrod is all the way up, the valve is open.
 
Use the number 9 when adjusting valves.
If 1 is down, adjust 8
2-7
3-6
4-5
7-2
etc
whatever valve is down, subtract that from 9 and adjust the that number valve.
 
The rule of 9 never fails, however, here's a time saver

Open----------------------------Closed
4 & 7--------------------------- 5 & 2
1 & 3--------------------------- 8 & 6
2 & 5----------------------------7 & 4
6 & 8----------------------------3 & 1


So it can be done with one revolution of the crank instead of 2.
 
I do it similarly, but with no math. :smile: Think of a mirror halfway down the valves, so 1-4 is a mirror image of 5-8. When I'm pulling the car forward to rotate the engine, I put my head down even with the valves and sight down the valve train. When a pushrod pops up, I stop pulling and check the 'mirror' of that valve. I also check all the valves twice, just to be sure.
 
I learned it is easy to just pull the car forward or push it back while standing next to the engine, don't bother with wrenches on the crank or silly stuff like that. Can't remember if I pulled the plugs first to relieve compression or not but the whole procedure was painless.
 
What is wrong with Adj when Piston is on compression stroke and before TDC
Been doing it that way since I was 15 years old.
It is possible to grab the belt between the Gen and crank and turn the engine over.
but a good wrench and 15/16 socket works just fine on the crank pulley bolt.
A good wrench is a 1/2 inch drive ratchet about 12 inches long made to high standards and is smooth when working and feels great in the hand.
If you are using a piece of junk from China, your work will become a real pain and you will see the results on your knuckles. If mechanical work hurts you, you are not using the correct tool
 
ichthos said:
It was a pain trying to get a wrench in there. Next time I will try your technique of rolling the car.
Kevin
Click to expand...

Rolling is easy, you can stand right next to the engine, grab the windshield post in right hand, grab something up front with left and roll back and forth watch the valves, doesn't matter how many times you have to turn the engine over to check because it's so easy.
 
Maybe it was right hand on firewall top and left grabbing the edge of front fender. Anyway, only need 10 feet or so to turn it over, back and forth. My '63 only weighs 1500lbs so it's easy.
 
Post'll do fine; it's easy to roll. I stand right in <span style="font-style: italic">front </span>of the car, and pull towards me by the rad support, with the car in 4th gear. No need to pull the plugs. Easy to sight down the line of valves too, and be pretty accurate with your pull. I've never measured, but it takes probably 'bout 6-8 feet to roll all eight valves twice.
 
I also use the roll back and forth method, with the car in 3rd or 4th gear. I have done it both plugs in and out. Out is easier, but like Bill said, you don't need to pull them.
 
Bumping an old thread with a question. I'm currently walking my '74 through the "Awakening a Sleeping MG" process, as it's been sitting for several years. I've got it on blocks right now, so can't really do the roll method. Can I just turn the fan blade to rotate the engine instead?
 
Yes but remember to rotate engine the correct way it normally turns and now I can't remember CW or CCW rotation but do not back it up or there will be slack in the timing chain that will throw your adjustments off.
 
Jim_Gruber said:
Yes but remember to rotate engine the correct way it normally turns and now I can't remember CW or CCW rotation but do not back it up or there will be slack in the timing chain that will throw your adjustments off.
Click to expand...

Hmm - so I went out and turned the engine via fan blade, and it looks like it turns the "wrong" way - based on how I'd think the blade should go. It won't turn the other way.

If you stand in front of the car, would it be clockwise or counter clockwise it would be turned?
 
Standing in front of the car, the engine turns clockwise. The fan belt may no have enough tension/grip to turn the crank. Be sure the spark plugs are removed.
 
Remember that the power transmitted through a belt always pull's and never should never push. Power is at the crank so it has to pull on the water pump and gen.

Kurt.
 
I set them the American way, TDC compression and set the valves for that cylinder.
 
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