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The Green Hawk
Freshman Member
Offline
Hello all, New member here!
I have a 1980 MGB that has the Weber DGV conversion and an electronic ignition. I have a question about vacuum advance.
I just discovered the vacuum advance diaphragm is bad, verified by the oral suction test. My question is about the need or use of vacuum advance with a modified distributor.
Is the vacuum advance still needed?? My own logics says YES, but have read several posts stating the opposite.
Also, just read the "White paper" and what a great source of hard to find information. One topic that was particularly helpful was valve lash adjustment using the Rule of Nine method.
I had gone through the RoN method twice which resulted in horribly ratty sounding valves each time. In the process, I discovered that the maximum amount of gap was not as stated in the RoN method.
I moved the crank forward a few degrees at each valve and found that the gap on valves 2,3-6,7 were wider at a few degrees beyond what the method stated. As it turned out I simply used the RoN to get close and then found the widest gap manually by moving the crank a few degrees. This worked wonderfully!!! I'm not sure why this is, but for now it works great.
Also you may have noticed that the valves I referenced were all INTAKE valves!! Again, not sure what to make of this and would very much like to hear if anyone has some ideas!!
Best,
The Green Hawk
I have a 1980 MGB that has the Weber DGV conversion and an electronic ignition. I have a question about vacuum advance.
I just discovered the vacuum advance diaphragm is bad, verified by the oral suction test. My question is about the need or use of vacuum advance with a modified distributor.
Is the vacuum advance still needed?? My own logics says YES, but have read several posts stating the opposite.
Also, just read the "White paper" and what a great source of hard to find information. One topic that was particularly helpful was valve lash adjustment using the Rule of Nine method.
I had gone through the RoN method twice which resulted in horribly ratty sounding valves each time. In the process, I discovered that the maximum amount of gap was not as stated in the RoN method.
I moved the crank forward a few degrees at each valve and found that the gap on valves 2,3-6,7 were wider at a few degrees beyond what the method stated. As it turned out I simply used the RoN to get close and then found the widest gap manually by moving the crank a few degrees. This worked wonderfully!!! I'm not sure why this is, but for now it works great.
Also you may have noticed that the valves I referenced were all INTAKE valves!! Again, not sure what to make of this and would very much like to hear if anyone has some ideas!!
Best,
The Green Hawk
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