Using a timing light

[regularman]

Is there some way to put some topside marks on the crank and engine so that you can use a timing light? I think the marks ar supposed to be on the bottom but the marker was gone off the timing chain cover on mine. I just set mine by ear and its working ok, but I wanted to do some more checks and fine tuning and it would be nice to have it all up top.

 

[jhorton3]

I've seen a couple of top side pointers on a couple of engine pics posted here over the last couple of months. Hap might be able to point you in the right direction of where to source one.

 

[jlaird]

Jeff has a kit for $20 that does that. Jeff the dizzy rebuilder.

 

[bugimike]

Kim, If you can locate TDC precisely, after setting it at TDC you can make your own pointer for the top, (a stout, looped wire attached to a bolt on the timing-chain cover works well!). When at TDC, file a notch in line with your pointer for a TDC mark on the pulley. Then a careful measurement of the diameter of the crank pulley will give you a measurement for the full 360 degrees. Dividing that measurement by 36 will give you a distance for 10 degree increments at which to notch the pulley (one notch on each side of the TDC notch for +/- 10 degrees). If you want finer referrences than that, split the distance for 5 degree marks! As stated above, Hap has some good pix posted on how the pointer should look!

 

[ChrisS]

When I assemble my engines I move the timing mark to the top at about 10 or 11 o'clock. I weld on a L shaped piece of sheet metal with one side of the L ground down to a point. After finding TDC for timing the cam I put the timing chain cover and dampener on and mark the dampener. Then I remove the dampener and cut a grove it it with a hack saw. I use the hack saw because I get better control for the initial cut than I do with a reciprocating saw. Once the grove is cut I paint it white so it is more visible. The only draw back to this method is that you need to have an adjustable timing light since you only have a 0' reference and not the graduated references that comes stock.

As a side note, I don't like to loop of wire method because I feel it can move too easily. If you know it moved fine, but if not then you have real problems.

 

[jlaird]

Nice looking engine Chris.

 

[Hap Waldrop]

I do it on all the engine I buuild with bottom timing tabs, all I can fiquire is when they design this is was a Guiness morning Jeff kit is perfect for a engine already in a car, simply bolt on job, if you building a engine and it it on a stand then you can make your own, mine are very simple, yet sturdy, I just mark TDC, because 99% of us are using dial type timing lights now anyways.

Try Jeff for the bolt timing pointer kit
www.advanceddistributors.com

Here's a photo of the ones I make when building a engine.

 

[regularman]

Since my marker is gone, I thought about just using a chop stick in the the spark lug hole to find TDC and then mrak it that way. I do need a pointer. I could not find one on the link listed. Would timing to far advanced make one run hot? Mine is still losing water and geting hot after a while of driving. Three days later you spin the plug out of the rad and there is still pressure and the water is down about half a quart. I still haven't figured this one out. I can drive it for an hour no problem,nice and cool and then it slowly starts to heat and once that starts it overheats pretty soon. Its like the water is going somewhere and then there is not enough to cool. I have pressure tested the system while hot and while cold and found nothing. I need to do that exhaust gas check I reckon and see if it is a head or gasket problem.

 

[Glen_B]

If you're losing water into the motor through a bad head gasket, just remove the oil filler cap and look for the characteristic brown scum on the underside. Alternatively, fill the rad to the brim and start the engine with the cap off. After a few gentle presses of the throttle to settle things down, rev it a bit and see if bubbles rise up in the radiator with each press of the throttle.

Overly advanced will cause overheating and audible pinging. Too retarded will make your exhaust manifold VERY hot. For ballparking it, start the engine, warm it up, twist the dizzy until the idle is as fast as it will get and then rotate the dizzy towards retard until it slows noticeably. Probably pretty close.

Glen