• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

used rear diff

W,

It's hard to tell the condition of the internals untill you open it up. Of course if you have a ton of play, grinding or binding while rotating both axles or one at a time, then you have a problem.

The ring & pinion setting is only one of several renewable parts over hauled during a rebuild. All the seals should be replaced, the bearings inspected & the carrier thrust washers and planet gears fiber washer replaced. The bearings as well as the ring/pinion seem to hold up very well.
I have found that the "magic" Churchill case spreader is not required. The carrier can be pryed out gently with very little work.
 
Trboost is right on. After you open it up you will know more. Setting the play on the ring and pinion is one of those precise jobs that gets torqued at about 80- 100psi. The pinion is basically kinda sorta set in there like a front rotor with a bearing on each side. the job is to set the drag at I think about 12lbs. This is done with shims that end up torqued back to the bearing at 80-100+ psi with the large castle nut and yet allow the flange to move with a drag of about 8- 12lbs. What most people do when they replace the seal is put every thing back just the way it came out that means make sure you put all the shims back in. However, if you have replaced the bearing and the seal then you have to set the shim pack fresh by setting the drag of the flange

Sp53
 
Back
Top