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Use PCV or just cap and vent?

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Just use a breather or put the lower assembly back on as shown on part #60 and related bits?

TRI-009.gif
 
My opinion : Go with the road draft tube unless you want to re-engineer the PCV system. The factory PCV didn't work very well, and tends to force oil out the rear main seal (unless you have one of the modern lip-type seals installed).
 
I have an extra road draft tube, and if I can convince myself that I can get the plug out of the block, without pulling the engine, I'll probably install it. I'm thinking that I might be able to drill a hole (with a right--angle drill) in the plug, and use a lag bolt as a puller to extract it.
 
I may have one in the boxes o'parts that came with the fleet. Feel free to rummage around in the 4. If not, the motor that went to Mac had one on it and I doubt they use the stock type on race motors.
 
sail said:
I wonder if this Internal Pipe Wrench might help get that sucker out.
Click to expand...

Hmm, the 1" type B just might grab inside, depending on how much depth it needs.

I also came up with an alternate idea I might try first. I'm thinking that a 1" bolt might thread into the inside of the plug, then allow some leverage to be applied. I don't have anything that size laying around, so I'll have to pick one up first.
 
sail said:
Yea, worth a shot. It wouldn't dare just screw out against some big washers.
Click to expand...

That was my thought with the lag bolt, but once I drill the plug, I'm pretty committed to getting it out! If I can get decent enough threads cut into the plug with a bolt, it might pull out that way, but it isn't all that deep, so it would probably need to be a one washer at at time process to have enough threads engaged.

Anyway, I'll pick up a couple to big bolts tomorrow if I get a chance, and report back!
 
My opinion again, you're not going to have any luck with anything that presses against the sides of the plug. The sides are already holding it in place, so any additional force will tend to lock it even tighter.

Are you going to drop the pan afterwards to clean away the swarf? Or just hope the oil filter does it's job?
 
TR3driver said:
My opinion again, you're not going to have any luck with anything that presses against the sides of the plug. The sides are already holding it in place, so any additional force will tend to lock it even tighter.

Are you going to drop the pan afterwards to clean away the swarf? Or just hope the oil filter does it's job?
Click to expand...

Yes, I'm assuming I would need to drop the pan, as much of a pain as it is.
 
Just some food for thought, this wouldn't require removing the plug or dropping the pan. No effect on mixture, and according to the builder it absolutely stops rear main leaks (by carrying negative crankcase pressure even at full throttle). He thinks it might even be good for another bhp or two
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CVS-T34001.jpg


And with any luck, it actually reduces emissions considerably.
 
Darrell_Walker said:
I have an extra road draft tube, and if I can convince myself that I can get the plug out of the block, without pulling the engine, I'll probably install it. I'm thinking that I might be able to drill a hole (with a right--angle drill) in the plug, and use a lag bolt as a puller to extract it.
Click to expand...

Darrell,

mtlman8 just did this recently and I believe had a rough time with it in while in the car so you should search for that thread. I did mine when I rebuilt the engine since the prior owner had already removed the PCV valve and replaced the valve cover with an earlier TR4 non-vented model and I don't recall it being that difficult with a stripped block out of the car.

Scott
 
That PCV gizmo is just good to gunk plugs and valves. Road draft is not very clean either.
I use a 2 pt oil canister with a tube to the rocker cover and one to the former emplacment of the petrol pump. Road draft is plugged.
Works OK.
 
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