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Use of an electric impact wrench, little off topic

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J

Joe_Pinehill

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I have a 1/2 drive Rigid electric impact wrench. I use it for all lug nut removal and replacement(not going all the way on replacement, I leave running torque and finish with a torque wrench.)

Question though, what is the proper use for an impact wrench when removing problem bolts fasteners? Is it as simple as just placing the socket on, hold tight, and let it brrrip?

A little off topic, but if my friends in the Triumph Forum wouldn't mind sharing tribal knowledge. thanks.

(my motive is I have to do the ball joints on my Volvo 240 daily driver, and some of the fasteners haven't been touched since it drove off the line in 1990. I was going to soak in PB Blaster for a couple days, then try a hand wrench, but I'm expecting some nuts will need more persuasion. All the fasteners I have to remove look in good shape, no corrosion, heads look solid((good Swedish steel))
 
Either soak with liquid wrench or add heat first as needed then use the impact wrench on problem stuff.
 
I have found that an impact wrench is a much better way to remove stubborn nuts and bolts. Rusted exhaust hardware easily came apart with my air impact, as compared breaking with a socket wrench and long breaker bar.
 
I go with roofman, Heat is the ultimate but not propane, not hot enough. Definatly some sort of liquid wrench, Kroil works well. Put the impact on and let it rip, so to speak. What is the torque specs on your electric?

Tinkerman
 
Most electric impact guns don't make a lot of torque, so you may need to hit it with an air impact. One ghetto technique I've used is to put a sturdy ring wrench on the offending part and beat it with a 1 lb hammer. This 'poor man's impact wrench' works very well, as the sharp blows often crack the fastener loose. Need space to swing the hammer 'tho.
 
I've have good luck getting things hot enough to separate with MAPP gas, not red hot but hot enough to work. I love the smell of boiling smoking PB Blaster in the morning.
 
Your right Peter, you have to use the gas oxygen system to get it hot enough to break it free. I have used it quite a bit on my TR3. I also have a 450 lb torque wrench and even with that I have had to resort to the hammer wrench, which Bugeye referred to as a slugger wrench. They are built to accept heavy HEAVY blows with a 5 lb sledge evan. Trouble is, if the nut is really frozen on, read rusted, you might just round it off, thats why I like the gas heat. I have also heard that water quenching after heating it up does a good job of breaking it free, dunno not tried it yet.
A gazillion years ago I worked in a true service station and we did bunches of muffler work and we routinly used the gas to break the rusted parts free.

Regards, Tinkerman
 
Hi PeterK, hasn't any one heard of a ball joint separator, not a pickle fork. They are small, relatively inexpensive but very powerful presses that work a treat.---Fwiw--Keoke-?
 
Re: Use of an electric impact wrench, little off t

the max torque of my wrench is 450 ft-lb. Its not big hardware I have to remove. On the 240 the ball joint is more or less a self contained unit. Bolts onto the control are, and other end bolts on the the strut support, you dont need a separator. Thanks for the input.
 
Re: Use of an electric impact wrench, little off t

Thanks for all your input. I was able to the job in less the 3 hours (one reason I love and keep my old 240 is that is almost as easy to work on as the Spitfire.)

Removing and tightening the ball joint stud would have been all but impossible without an impact wrench.
 
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