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TR2/3/3A Update on the blown head gasket

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TFB said:
My liners tapped out very easy but the motor had been rebuilt and had almost no crust.
Yo may want to fill the bloclk when you get the pan off and look around the bottom before you pull the liners and after the head is back on fill full before the pan goes back on.
For the rod bearings I think you will know if you want to reuse them as soon as you look at them.
Tom
Click to expand...
Filling the block before the liners come off and after the head goes will tell me if the FO8 gaskets are leaking , correct?
 
Head usually puts pressure on sleeves, maintaining a seal. I don't know that finding water with the liners not forced down will tell you anything useful.
Bob
 
Before digging way too deep.... Try re-torqueing those head bolts. I remember in a post not long ago where a gentleman had water in his oil and he had not re-torqued his head bolts after the recommended time after a rebuild (500 miles or was it 1500 miles...). Anyhow - when he went to re-torque this bolts he was really surprised how loose they were (like 75-85ft/lbs) when they should be 95 to 105 ft/lbs. I recently rebuilt my engine and after the initial 1500 miles I was surprised too. My two cents worth...

Joel
 
Truing rod big ends shouldn't change the length of the connecting rod. It is done by grinding the same amount off both the rod and the rod cap contact surfaces. Then, a special hone is used to bring the hole back to true. Since equal is removed from each side, the total length should be unaffected.

The manual recommends coating the FO8's with WellSeal, which is a very thick shellac type sealant. It was developed by Rolls during WW2 to hold the engine together with 40 inches of boost. When I heard that, I decided it's good enough for me and my Triumph!
 
I know TRF sells Wellseal, along with all of the British suppliers.

I responded to your PM...in short, I don't think the FO8 will change the position of the liner. It will likely just be a small area that has corroded through, with the majority of the FO8 still supporting the liner.
 
TFB said:
My liners tapped out very easy but the motor had been rebuilt and had almost no crust.
Yo may want to fill the bloclk when you get the pan off and look around the bottom before you pull the liners and after the head is back on fill full before the pan goes back on.
For the rod bearings I think you will know if you want to reuse them as soon as you look at them.
Tom
Click to expand...
The cylinder head is currently off the car.The liner protrusions are OK. Is it possible to add some water to partially fill the block,being carefull not to overfill, with the cylinder head "off" to see if there is an FO8 leak with the oil pan removed? Doing this would be a benefit because if I install the cylinder head ,fill the coolant system, and then discover an FO8 leak I would have to pull the head again but if there was no FO8 leak I would be good to go to install the head.?
 
If the fig 8 are welseal or similar it really shouldnā€™t leak with such a low/small ā€˜headā€™ of water.
a running engine should have a hot pressure of 4 to 12psi depending on rad cap used so may show up leaks ?
prep is everything new fig 8 with sealant proper liner protrusion and a good head gasket properly clamped.
 
Charley and Hamish Maybe I will install a new head gasket and do a compression check before starting the engine as it has not been determined yet if I actually have an FO8 leak! There is some evidence of leaking between the block and the head but there is no coolant or oil whatsoever in the cylinders or damage to the head gasket and yet there is coolant in the oil? You would have to read the entire thread to get a better idea of the situation.
 
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