unidentified nipple...

[jessebogan]

The DGV is a different animal than the stromberg fitted from the factory. Weber used an "electric jet" for run on control when they bothered to fit one. Generally not worth the trouble, and I am not sure it could be fitted to a DGV anyway. So, don't worry about that particular connection. If the car is not running hot and the idle speed is set correctly, you shouldn't need the anti run on anyway.

 

[Stewart]

Here is a picture with new MC, rebuilt carb, new vaccum and Fuel lines.

Yep. I will paint the valve cover. Thanks for the tip.

Where are you routing the hose for the crank case breather to?

 

[mgnewbie]

I installed a check valve for the hose connecting the oil separator/flame trap --->] to the intake manifold. The nipple on top of the valve cover is connected to the charcoal can, and charcoal can is connected to the carb vaccum.

I found a hole on the top of the weber carb (I think its for ventilation of float chamber) where I could stick the hose from the ROC valve.

The engine started without a hitch after rebuilding the carb. Baseline carb setting seems to work very well...engine idling very smooth now. :banana:

Replaced 3 brake flex hoses today and bled brakes...again

Now I am working on electrical system. The headlights were not working, and I traced the problem to the headlight switch. I disassembled the swith and found that the contacts were covered with green crust...cleaned them and the headlight/high beam now works...changed right headlight bulb. Strange???? the wiper blades are activated when I turn the keys to cranking position. The PO had installed a hot wire start button direct to the starting motor, and I just need to turn the keys to the on position and press the start button...I will check why he did this, and also why the wipers are activated when the key is turned to crank...Also when the key is in the ON position, the reverse light comes on...and stays on after starting the engine...hmmm...tomorrow I will check if the reverse lamp switch may be closed shut.

Picture with more hoses and piping and doing electrical troubleshooting....

 

[mgnewbie]

Hi Doc, I just bought a set of SU carbs and manifold and loose parts including 3 more carbs removed from a rusted out 74 MGB on ebay for $97 (including shipping). Although its a bit late now, is this something worth the money? How much more do I need to spend on parts to rebuild and bring the SU carbs back to working condition? Your advice is appreciated!

Here is a picture;

 

[DrEntropy]

Wow, YB!!!

Well, if there's a good pair in that pile, the money was EXTREMELY well spent!!!

A couple kits from Joe Curto and some sweat equity should do it!

You ain't wastin' any time on this, are ya!?! :laugh: :wink:

Look to the carb bodies where the throttle shafts go thru... you want NO ~wobble~ of the shafts in the bore of the body. Curto can supply either oversize shafts or standard ones and bushes with a reamer if they need fixin'.

Can't really "see" all the stuff in that pile but for a Franklin, I think ya done good! :wink:

 

[mgnewbie]

Thanks Doc! I will post my findings on the SU carbs once I receive them. While adjusting valve clearance today, I noticed that #2 valve and #7 valve doesn't seem to open as much as the other valves. Is this something I should be worried about? I got to remove the valve cover and wire brushed and painted them, and also the heater cover...Looks better under the hood with some make-up

Here is a picture...

 

[PAUL161]

Sounds like worn cam lobes. But then again, I, (hopefully), could be wrong. PJ

 

[DrEntropy]

Unfortunately, Paul may have hit the issue squarely. A dial indicator (Harbor Freight) on the rockers would give you empirical data. Compare the lift on all the rockers and it'll tell th' tale.

 

[mgnewbie]

OH MAN! Not the cam shaft!!!! WHAT THE @#^%^&%(&)!!!!
Is it possible only the 2 cam lobes be worn out that much??? I'll check on the dial indicator...

 

[DrEntropy]

It ~can~ happen. The dial indicator will help decode any issues. You'll want a magnetic base for the dial indicator too, BTW.

Nice work so far! :thumbsup:

 

[mgnewbie]

Today I picked up a dial ind. and mag base from Harbor Freight for real cheap...only $24. Now, I am afraid to put them on....to find that the cam lobes are worn...

When I yank the #1 plug wire, the engine seems to idle better, and when I yank #4 wire, nothing happens...hmmm...

I need some advice about removing rust...what is the best method to remove surfave rust from the cowl below the radiator. I want to paint it before installing the air duct insideit.

 

[PAUL161]

If you have to replace the cam, do not use the old lifters, use new ones. Also, check with the guys here on what make of cam and lifters to buy. Some cams are not up to par in my book and have soft lobes. Among others, Hap, "Acme Speed Shop", knows cams and has a world of knowledge on the subject. JMHO. PJ

 

[mgnewbie]

Paul, Thanks for the advice. I will probably remove the engine from the car and also have the block and head rebuilt when I change the cam and the valve train. If the cam is worn, there may be other parts that are also marginal...
BTW, is getting a spare engine difficult for MGB? And, where would one get one without paying an arm and a leg??? Also since my MGB is 1980, would I be able to fit a V8 or V6 engine in my MGB as the spare engine? What V6 or V8 engines models will fit? Sorry for so many questions, but I want to explore all options before sinking my hard earned money...

 

[PAUL161]

First question, MGB engines are not that hard to get and if their in average repairable condition, I wouldn't pay over $200 to $300 for one depending what accessories are on it.
I forgot the exact year the change was made, but around 1975, the transmission tunnel was widened on the MGB and remained that way up to and including 1980. This allows more room for a V6 or V8 conversion. Small block Fords, Chevy's, Buick's and even other foreign makes have been installed with success. Even though their not cheap, the British Rover V8 is a popular conversion and for some, keeps it British. 5 speed transmission conversions are also available, but expensive. Don't worry about asking questions, that's what this forum is for. We all ask questions at times, as there is always a question that needs answering and the amount of knowledge you'll find on these forums is mind boggling. Hope this helps. PJ

 

[DrEntropy]

My assessment FWIW is: Don't re-invent the wheel... make that engine run as well as possible. If you feel it to be beyond a point of resale, find another engine and rebuild that... transfer the units and "Bob's yer uncle". Drive it a while, satisfy yourself it's safe and roadworthy then SELL it to acquire that early one. :wink:

 

[mgnewbie]

Thanks to both for your sound advice! I can see the potential of wasted effort and money by holding on to something that will suck the juice out of me...

Today, I plan to check the lift on my cams to see how bad the wear is. I bought a compression tester, so, I will also check if the valves and the rings are holding. Will let you know after the tests.

I have also removed the front bumper, the lower shield, and the grill to clean up the rust and paint before installing the air duct and the mud guard which I ordered from MOSS. Managed to get the horns to work in the process. Just cleaned the wire connection, and it worked!

 

[davester]

Even though their not cheap, the British Rover V8 is a popular conversion and for some, keeps it British.

...except that the British Rover V8 is really a Buick engine!

 

[PAUL161]

Your right Dave, but all those little British goodies surrounding it, gives it character.

 

[swift6]

Even though their not cheap, the British Rover V8 is a popular conversion and for some, keeps it British.

...except that the British Rover V8 is really a Buick engine!

Rover did change a few things, but mostly how the ancillaries bolt on. Internals were pretty much unchanged.

 

[DNK]

It was all a conspiracy by the tool company. Now you have to have a complete set of metric an SAE