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unidentified nipple...
- Thread starter mgnewbie
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OP
mgnewbie
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Thanks. I will blank it off. What do I do with the other end of the hose connection going to the bottom of the intake manifold?
Related to the above question, what is this short hose, that branch-out from the metal pipe which runs from the radiator hose to the heater-heat exchanger, and which goes into the bottom of the intake manifold?
Can I remove the short hose as well? Here is the picture of the short hose.
Doc, I have no idea what is stock and what are add-ons in my car. The Bentley doesnt have any picture of the stock exhaust or intake manifold...
Related to the above question, what is this short hose, that branch-out from the metal pipe which runs from the radiator hose to the heater-heat exchanger, and which goes into the bottom of the intake manifold?
Can I remove the short hose as well? Here is the picture of the short hose.
Doc, I have no idea what is stock and what are add-ons in my car. The Bentley doesnt have any picture of the stock exhaust or intake manifold...
Stewart
Darth Vader
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oh boy you have some serious dpo stuff going on there. You have a weber carb most likely a 32/36 an aftermarket header, what looks to be a heated manifold, a botched heater hose and some seriously screwy emmissions equipment.
If it were me the first thing I would be is remove the smog equipment except for the charcoal canister. I would then replace all the coolant hoses. If the manifold is the heated type I would run the heater outlet to the rear port and the hose from the lower hose to the front. The new lower radiator hose will have a much longer extention at the T. Next I would reroute the fuel line away from the top of the engine. Hopefully the hard line that runs across the firewall and up the left fender is still there.
Hopefully someone will have a good photo of your model of weber setup on an mgb.
If it were me the first thing I would be is remove the smog equipment except for the charcoal canister. I would then replace all the coolant hoses. If the manifold is the heated type I would run the heater outlet to the rear port and the hose from the lower hose to the front. The new lower radiator hose will have a much longer extention at the T. Next I would reroute the fuel line away from the top of the engine. Hopefully the hard line that runs across the firewall and up the left fender is still there.
Hopefully someone will have a good photo of your model of weber setup on an mgb.
davester
Jedi Trainee
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From some of your questions, it sounds as though you are trying to do this work without having a Bentley manual on hand (which will have all sorts of pictures and diagrams showing how things "should" be. If you don't have one, I'd highly recommend that getting one should be job #1.
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Short hose under the intake must be blocked off as well. The end from that solid pipe from the water pump. It's the supply side of the longer one going to the head.
That "safety wire" job to keep that line off the header is scary,too. Stew has a good idea: replace lower rad hose with an earlier version ('76 IIRC) and get the solid pipe for it to the heater matrix as well. It will allow you to run it "up and over" the intake.
That "safety wire" job to keep that line off the header is scary,too. Stew has a good idea: replace lower rad hose with an earlier version ('76 IIRC) and get the solid pipe for it to the heater matrix as well. It will allow you to run it "up and over" the intake.
OP
mgnewbie
Senior Member
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Thanks Stewart and Doc for your advice, I have now stripped most of the hoses and "unnecessary" stuff out. Also received the carb rebuild kit from victoria, so took the carb off. I found a pool of gas inside the intake manifold right below where the carb was sitting. The carb must be over-flowing.
The engine compartment looks a lot cleaner now without the airpump & glup valve. I plugged the air holes with 7/16-20 3/4" bolts. Kept the charcoal cans. got me 1/4" and 3/8" copper tubing from home depot. plan to repipe the vaccum and water hoses using copper tubing. Now I need to start stripping the carb...
Here is a piture;
The engine compartment looks a lot cleaner now without the airpump & glup valve. I plugged the air holes with 7/16-20 3/4" bolts. Kept the charcoal cans. got me 1/4" and 3/8" copper tubing from home depot. plan to repipe the vaccum and water hoses using copper tubing. Now I need to start stripping the carb...
Here is a piture;
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YB, that "pool" is why I don't have much use for that carb/manifold combo. Your carb ~may~ be leaking but the Cannon manifold is <span style="font-style: italic">notorious</span> for doing just what you see... on hot restart that raw gas will get sucked into the cylinders making it really hard to start. I'd say begin looking around for a set of early SU's to mate up to it.
...on second thought, just get it runnin' and let th' NEXT owner find the SU's.
YOUR next MGB will already HAVE a set. :wink: :laugh:
Or you could do this:
...on second thought, just get it runnin' and let th' NEXT owner find the SU's.
YOUR next MGB will already HAVE a set. :wink: :laugh:
Or you could do this:
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Stewart
Darth Vader
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Since you've gone this far you might as well refresh the gaskets on side covers, repaint the valve cover when you set the valves. Just dont pull the engine as thats how complete rebuilds tend to start. Start looking for a set of su's with the mainifold as mentioned before if you look around you should find a set cheap and they will really wake up the car.
I dont think that engine bay is that clean. It's got to be photo choped as there is no oil anywhere
I dont think that engine bay is that clean. It's got to be photo choped as there is no oil anywhere
jessebogan
Jedi Knight
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Hey Doc, what intake manifold is that? S.T.? And the sound it makes is .. um.. "proper" Makes it sound like a B with a mouth full of marbles...
OP
mgnewbie
Senior Member
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Wow! looks like you did a lot of work!!! looks very nice with the shiny cover and carb. :cooler:
In the Manual, Running on control pipe is supposed to be connected to the airspace above the carb float chamber to create a vaccum when the ignition key is turned off. But where physically is this connection on the weber 32/36 DGV???? Do you have any idea? Or should I drill a hole on the top of the carb float chamber and stick a nipple on it?
In the Manual, Running on control pipe is supposed to be connected to the airspace above the carb float chamber to create a vaccum when the ignition key is turned off. But where physically is this connection on the weber 32/36 DGV???? Do you have any idea? Or should I drill a hole on the top of the carb float chamber and stick a nipple on it?