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underdash wiring loom routeing???

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M

MK11TRICARB

Freshman Member
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hi guys
i have a mk 11 tri carb under rebulid(since 1995!)there was no wiring loom fitted to the car when purchased.I was wondering if any one knew the under dash wiring loom fixing/routeing on a right hand drive model??
regards paul from across the pond in England
 
Paul, I would not doubt that there was a standard routing for the wire harness in these cars, but as I approached the task on my BN2 a while back I looked at every big Healey I could get inside and they were all somewhat different from each other. Some were elegantly done but most were pretty much a mess (we're talking drivers here not concourse). I spent a good deal of time getting to know my wire harness and finally got each connection to go where it was supposed to with the minimal amount of stress on the connections, secured where necessary to prevent chaffing, and not looking too much like a pit full of angry snakes. I truly suspect that there are not very many ways to end up like this. I too would be curious to see photos of how it was done at the factory. I also spent time going through all of my Healey books, magazines and purchased photo compilations (British Car Specialists in Stockton, CA has some good ones for sale)and never found any really good photos of the under-dash area. Some of the connections are bulky and stiff and have to go on some small switches (I broke more than one trying to get them to fit properly, partly because they were old switches) and you just have to try one routing and then look at the alternatives until you find the best fit. Who knows if all the wire harnesses are equal? Hope this helps. Maybe some folks on this forum could post some snap shots.

Jon
 
Hi Paul,

Welcome to the forum! I have a Mark II BJ7, left hand drive but imagine the routing is basically the same. The harness comes through the largest opening in the middle of the firewall, runs along the top of the box section just below the firewall (behind the heater) towards the steering column. It then turns and runs along the inboard side of the sheet metal support for the steering column (in your case, the left side). It is attached to the support (about in the middle) with a P clip which I believe is the only P clip used to hold the dash harness. Where the P clip attaches with a screw and bolt is also the attachment for the black ground wires coming out of the harness in this area. The harness then branches right and left above the steering column to go to the various instruments and switches. I suggest you spend time beforehand with a factory wiring diagram, ohm meter and labeling machine (or tape) to mark all the terminals of the harness. This makes it easier when sorting through and attaching the wires. Some people like to pull the dash to make it easier to make the connections. Others like to pull the instruments, feed the wires through the holes, make connections and replace. This is how I did mine but still found it necessary to lay on well padded floorboards and do some final hookups.

If you have more questions, ask away. I can try to take some pictures for you but it is hard to get good shots of this area.

Cheers,
John
 
HI CHAPS
THANK YOU FOR YOUR SUGGESTIONS AND HELP, ITS ALL FOOD FOR THOUGHT.THANKS FOR THE TIP ON THE P CLIP POSITION TOO.YOU HAVE MADE ME FEEL REALLY WELCOME AND I LOOK FORWARD TO TALKING TO EVERY ONE SOON.KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK.
CHEERS JON AND JOHN
REGARDS PAUL /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/england.gif
 
Hi Paul, Depending on how far along you are with the body work makes a huge difference. I installed my harness after the chassis was all painted but before the frount shroud was installed. This made it pretty simple to access the wiring and the wiper motor.Also study the harness and gauges and pre label and know where every wire is to connect and it should go pretty easy. If the shroud is on the car I belive I would install the harness with the gauges out so you can see where to make the connections. Guess I'm just to old and blind to try to hook every thing up laying on my head upside down. Good Luck BR1
we also have a mk11 bn7 tricarb /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Looks good! Our car is also Old English White. Have you decided on an interior color? Ours is red leather with a black top. BR1
 
HI BR1
INTERIOR COLOUR IS GOING TO BE BLACK AS HERITAGE CERTIFICATE AND EVENTUALLY IT WILL HAVE A BLACK RAG TOP AS WELL.THE REST OF THE SPEC IS HEATER,NON ADJUSTABLE STEERING AND OVERDRIVE.IT GOT REIMPORTED FROM THE USA IN 1995 WHEN I BOUGHT IT,IT IS RIGHT HAND DRIVE.I PRESUME IT WAS USA SERVICE MANS CAR TAKEN BACK.ALTHOUGH SEVERAL PEOPLE HAVE SAID THAT THE RACING MODS THAT HAD BEEN CARRIED OUT TO THE CAR MIGHT HAVE PROVED THAT IT HAD BEEN TOOK OUT TO THE USA TO BE USED IN RACE SERIES BECAUSE YOU USED RIGHT HAND DRIVE BECAUSE THE BALANCE OF THE CAR WAS CORRECT,AS LEFT HAND DRIVE NEVER HANDLED SO WELL??? DONT KNOW?? WHAT DO YOU THINK???.
REGARDS PAUL
 

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Can't see why a right hand drive would handle any differnt than a left unless you are making all right hand curves which wouldn't be the case in road racing.What kind of racing mods does the car have? Is it a 2 seater or 4? Bill Bolton in Oregon keeps a record of all the tri carbs If you are intrested in registering if you haven't already done so.
Our cars only option was a heater. Don't have any over drive and has solid disc wheels. I guess I can look at it as 2 things I don't have to spend money on our worry about tearing up. Did come with a 354 gear which is a plus.
Bob
 
HI BOB
ITS A BT7(171 RHD BUILT)THE MODS WERE ADJUSTABLE REAR LEVER ARM SHOCKS,TUBULAR EXHAUST MANIFOLDS,WITH SIDE EXIT EXHAUST,THE SILL HAD BEEN MODED FOR IT AND POSSIBLY THE DOOR BECAUSE THAT HAD BEEN CHANGED(NOT ORIGINAL SET).THE EXHAUST SIDE FLOOR/FOOTWELL/FIREWALL HAD BEEN REPROFILED SO PROFFESIONALLY THAT WHEN I REPLACED THIS PANEL BECAUSE OF CORROSSION I REPRODUCED IT THINKING IT WAS STANDARD.ONLY REALISED IT WAS NOT WHEN I LOOKED AT OTHER TRICARBS.THIS I GUESS WAS TO GIVE CLEARANCE FOR THE EXHAUST.THE MOD WOULD HAVE REQUIRED THE ENGINE TO BE REMOVED.HEAVY DUTY RAD WITH QUICK RELEASE LEVER PRESSURE CAP.EXTRA STEERING COLUMN BRACE FITTED TO OPPOSITE SIDE TO STIFFEN SCUTTLE?.PLUS LOADS OF LITTLE THINGS LIKE BUMBLE BEE HT LEADS ETC.ALL MODS DONE VERY WELL,ALL PERIOD MODS TO, AS I BOUGHT IT IN 1995 IT HAD STOOD APPARENTLY FOR OVER 20YEARS WHICH I CAN BELIEVE,IT WAS VERY ROTTEN INDEED(I FELL THROUGH FLOORS WHEN I STOOD IN IT)REGARDS PAUL
 
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