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TR2/3/3A Undercoating on TR3
- Thread starter mcguijo
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Paul Johnson
Jedi Warrior
Offline
In the '70s they were not undercoated by the factory. At that time I worked at a BL port of entry, where we applied undercoating to all cars. I cannot speak for certain about the '50s, but it is not very likely, given that they were not doing so later.
Alan_Myers
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Hi,
Typically, common black undercoating was not used. If you find it on a TR, it was probably sprayed on by a dealer or a previous owner.
On complete disassembly of my 1962 TR4, I did not find undercoating but did find *a lot* of what appeared to be Waxoyl underneath, in and around parts.
This is a semi-transparent rust preventative/protectant. It's basically the same stuff still used to protect engine compartments, chassis and suspensions, especially during overseas shipment when the cars would be sitting inside the hold of a ship and exposed to a lot of sea air. When I worked at a dealership in the early 1970s, we basically steam-cleaned the stuff off the obvious areas as a part of the final prep before customer pickup. But, a lot was left in the nooks and crannies, and under the car.
Around all the handbrake linkage and the differential of my car, Waxoyl was sometimes 1/4" or thicker. The handbrake lever mechanism was completely encased in it. And it did its job... underneath the stuff the parts were pristine.
There are spray-on undercoating removers available from auto paint suppliers and restoration shops. I know Eastwood Co. sells it, although you might find it at a lower price elsewhere. It's still not an easy job, but this probably the safest method.
A preliminary steam cleaning might help. Just be sure to get everything totally dry as quickly as possible to prevent any increased or new rust problems.
I've used a propane torch myself, to soften undercoat, but I don't recommend it and it needs to be done *very* cautiously! A heat gun might be a better choice than a torch, but still needs to be used cautiously. Be especially careful around fuel lines and brake pipes!
No matter what, you'll find yourself using a putty knife and spending some quality time with the car!
Cheers!
Typically, common black undercoating was not used. If you find it on a TR, it was probably sprayed on by a dealer or a previous owner.
On complete disassembly of my 1962 TR4, I did not find undercoating but did find *a lot* of what appeared to be Waxoyl underneath, in and around parts.
This is a semi-transparent rust preventative/protectant. It's basically the same stuff still used to protect engine compartments, chassis and suspensions, especially during overseas shipment when the cars would be sitting inside the hold of a ship and exposed to a lot of sea air. When I worked at a dealership in the early 1970s, we basically steam-cleaned the stuff off the obvious areas as a part of the final prep before customer pickup. But, a lot was left in the nooks and crannies, and under the car.
Around all the handbrake linkage and the differential of my car, Waxoyl was sometimes 1/4" or thicker. The handbrake lever mechanism was completely encased in it. And it did its job... underneath the stuff the parts were pristine.
There are spray-on undercoating removers available from auto paint suppliers and restoration shops. I know Eastwood Co. sells it, although you might find it at a lower price elsewhere. It's still not an easy job, but this probably the safest method.
A preliminary steam cleaning might help. Just be sure to get everything totally dry as quickly as possible to prevent any increased or new rust problems.
I've used a propane torch myself, to soften undercoat, but I don't recommend it and it needs to be done *very* cautiously! A heat gun might be a better choice than a torch, but still needs to be used cautiously. Be especially careful around fuel lines and brake pipes!
No matter what, you'll find yourself using a putty knife and spending some quality time with the car!
Cheers!
71tr
Jedi Warrior
Offline
I have spent the last week removing undercoating from the tub of my TR6. i simply use a very small screwdriver and a 1.5" scraper. Keep the edge clean and occaisionally use a small hammer to get things started. I've found that working the edges with the small screwdriver allows me to then hit the remainder with the scraper. A very steep angle with good pressure breaks the bond and the undercoat either peels or pops off.
Don Elliott
Obi Wan
Offline
When I bought my TR3A brand new in 1958, I ordered 3 options. $150.00 for the factory-installed overdrive, $15.00 for the dealer-installed Trafalgar windscreen washer and $35.00 for the dealer-applied undercoating. It was the black tar type. When I did my total body off restoration from 1987 to 1990, I used all the techniques noted above. Watch out for the dripping flaming tar when using the propane torch. I prefer the electric hot air gun - much like a hair dryer. But hot dripping tar will burn you just as badly. The tar had split and come off in some places forming envelopes where the water would collect and stay till it rotted through. The bottom is painted the same as the exterior and after 15 summers and 87,000 miles it is almost as nice as it was in 1990. But then I've only driven it about 4,000 miles in the rain during that time. For the little that most people drive their TR's these days, a good paint job should be sufficient if you are also doing a total body off job.
Don Elliott, TS 27489 LO
https://mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/trebor/don3a_big.JPG
Don Elliott, TS 27489 LO
https://mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/trebor/don3a_big.JPG
Alan_Myers
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Hi,
Hmmm. That almost looks like someone painted over old undercoating, or even over accumulated road grime. A little hard to be sure from the photos, I'm afraid.
All my earlier suggestions were related to the black, tar-like undercoating that you can have appied, or get in spray cans to DIY.
There is also a paint-chip-preventative, commonly used on modern cars that can look somewhat like what's in your pictures. It's a primer that goes on with a pebbly texture, then is top-coated with the final color. This stuff would not have been used on a TR originally, but a previous owner doing a frame-off restoration might have had it put on the underside.
Oh, and the earlier TRs tend to provide some of their own undercoating. Down on the left rear side of the engine you should see a crankcase breather pipe that simply extends down beside the sump. Normally, more than a little oil mist comes out of the breather and nicely "undercoats" the car over time!
You might attack a small area of that mystery undercoat with an Xacto knife or whatever, to see what you've got. Let us know.
Cheers!
Hmmm. That almost looks like someone painted over old undercoating, or even over accumulated road grime. A little hard to be sure from the photos, I'm afraid.
All my earlier suggestions were related to the black, tar-like undercoating that you can have appied, or get in spray cans to DIY.
There is also a paint-chip-preventative, commonly used on modern cars that can look somewhat like what's in your pictures. It's a primer that goes on with a pebbly texture, then is top-coated with the final color. This stuff would not have been used on a TR originally, but a previous owner doing a frame-off restoration might have had it put on the underside.
Oh, and the earlier TRs tend to provide some of their own undercoating. Down on the left rear side of the engine you should see a crankcase breather pipe that simply extends down beside the sump. Normally, more than a little oil mist comes out of the breather and nicely "undercoats" the car over time!
You might attack a small area of that mystery undercoat with an Xacto knife or whatever, to see what you've got. Let us know.
Cheers!
I used paint remover and a putty knife. It took two passes, IIRC. Then 180 grit paper on a DA sander.
A little messy, but it worked for me.
And I *did* re-apply the 3M Schultz product all over the body parts; the urethane paint on the frame and rear axle should be more than enough.
A little messy, but it worked for me.
And I *did* re-apply the 3M Schultz product all over the body parts; the urethane paint on the frame and rear axle should be more than enough.
OP
mcguijo
Jedi Hopeful
Offline
Sorry folks, these are the best pics I could come up with. I'm hoping for stubborn road grime but expect the worse.
So if someone had visions of a concourse TR3, how much time should they spend beating themselves up to remove undercoating (obviously loose undercoat would be scraped off).
So if someone had visions of a concourse TR3, how much time should they spend beating themselves up to remove undercoating (obviously loose undercoat would be scraped off).