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U Joint questions

glemon

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I just got the six u-joints for my TR250 rear end, some questions, first they have a off clear to yellowish waxy grease on them, looks different than the grease (dark brownish red) I usually squirt from my grease gun, have read all greases are not compatible, can I use these as is or should I clean them out and re-grease.

Second, I have a clearance problem, with one sided on and fully in with the circlip the other side pushed in won't go far enough that I can get the circlip on, and it is in as far as it will go. Also one side drove in firmly as it should the other I could almost press in with my hand. I got these from a vendor I generally trust, but am questioning the quality of these parts. Off to work, will check replies at the end of the day, thanks,

Greg
 
If they yellowish grease you are describing is on the outside, it is probably just a protective coating and I wouldn't worry about it at all. In any case, while some greases are no compatible various greases (different brands) meant for this purpose should be just fine mixed. The next mechanic to work on the car is not going to check what brand of grease was squirted in last time!

The difference in force needed to put the bearing cap in is likely caused by the flange, and not the bearing. you just need to apply a bit more force and the cap will slide in the rest of the way. A few gentle taps with a proper grade universal bearing setting tool (otherwise known as a hammer) should solve the problem.
 
Already tapped with a hammer still doesn't fit, that was my thought on the grease, it is on the inside, but wasn't sure.
 
I install them in a vise using a socket(s) that is slightly smaller than the cap to push with. This gives nice even pressure all the way around. Careful not to bend the yoke.

The clear grease usually is put in to keep the needle bearings from coming out while you install the u-joint. Use your grease gun to push out the clear stuff until your grease comes out around the caps.
 
Hi Greg !

I am a non-mechanic TR6 owner and I replaced the existing
6 u-joints with Spicers. I thought the yellow grease was
a temporary grease to hold the needle bearings in place
during shipping. I cleaned off all the yellow grease and
replaced it with red wheel bearing grease.

I might be wrong about this, but I figure if a part rotates
I'll use red wheel bearing grease. If a part slides, I use
black lithium grease.

Take my suggestion for what it's worth. I know very little
of auto mechanics. But I DID sleep at a Holliday Inn!

PS: All my u-joints seem to working fine. Yisrael is correct
about applying more force unless..................a needle bearing
has popped out and is sitting under the cap.

shatter.jpg


needle.jpg


hsujoint2.jpg


best wishes,

dale (Tinster)

Edit: Scott the non-destructive method failed and I figured
the u-joint was toast anyway. I used the grinder out of curiosity
and also to remove the u-joint. Plus I got a great photo for my effort.
 
glemon said:
Already tapped with a hammer still doesn't fit, that was my thought on the grease, it is on the inside, but wasn't sure.

That's often a symptom of having rolled over one or more of the needle bearings. Only way to confirm this is to take that side of the u-joint apart and see if a needle bearing is laying in the base of the cup. If so, just put the bearing back in place and add some additional grease to keep them all in place.

There is another way to find out ... keep hitting the cap with a hammer until the dropped needle bearing shatters the cap, which is what I did earlier this summer since I was *sure* I hadn't rolled a bearing over!

Scott

edit: Dale illustrates another way to check using a grinder! Try the non-destructive method first before employing the BFH or grinder.
 
Yep, Dale nailed the cause here I think. You have at least one needle bearing sitting in the bottom of the cup. BTDT at least a couple of times.

Randy
 
Hi Greg,

I had similar problems and also ran a post asking for help last year. I bought top of the line ujoints from Goodparts, but still had some problems. From the posts that responded to my requests for help, it was clear many have run into the problems you have. I have easily and quickly replaced ujoints many times in my American cars, but they were a bugger trying to redo the TR6. To start with, the ujoints just usually pop out - not on the TR6. I actually had to use a cut off tool to aide me in removing two of them - very tricky to do without nicking the yoke.

How close is the ujoint from the circlip being able to go in? If it is a large amount, I would agree with Dale. If the distance is small, you might try (as I had to on two of the six ujoints) runing the circlips over some fine sand paper to remove the ridge on either side of the clip. That seems to give me just the clearance I needed.

Kevin
 
:iagree: Most likely there is a roller out of place. As Dale's photo shows, they sometimes come out of the box that way, or all it takes is for the end of the trunnion to catch on the end of a roller as you are pushing the cups in.

While grease incompatibility could be a problem, I've always just left that yellow waxy stuff and added a pump of grease from my grease gun to each cup before installing it (and after inspecting for rollers in place). The extra grease helps hold the rollers, and the excess will push out the zerk hole.

TR joints seem to last a long, long time for me; I don't think I've ever replaced the same joint twice.

The clips are supposed to be very snug for the halfshaft joints, apparently because of the forces involved. What works for me is to set a socket on top of the last clip, and compress it in the vise hard enough to push the opposite cup out firmly against it's clip. But as noted, you should only need another thousandth or two; any more than that and there is a roller turned.
 
A turned needle bearing, why didn't I think of that? Don't know looks like it is going about halfay down the slot for the circlip, will put the grubbies on and head out in a few minutes, hope that is it, thanks, Greg
 
glemon said:
A turned needle bearing, why didn't I think of that? Don't know looks like it is going about halfay down the slot for the circlip, will put the grubbies on and head out in a few minutes, hope that is it, thanks, Greg

Greg!

So what did you determine was the problem?
Are you able to post a photo of the problem.

regards,

Dale (Tinster)
 
the fit issue has been covered above. The "waxy grease stuff" IMHO should be cleaned out completely and put proper grease in them. Some of that "grease" they come with is not grease at all. Do yourself a favour and do the job right. Clean out the packing suff(waxy stuff)and get some high end synthetic grease and re-assemble them. You will probably never have to do the job again. I hope you got the Neapco brand u-joints that are better than the others- see "good parts" site. (I found these online for as little as $11 each (if you live in the eastern us)
Rob
 
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