U-joint first time

[simpzimmer]

O.K. guys, I picked up a loud rattle in the rear end during deceleration. Everyone's told me it's probably the u-joint. I'm attempting to put my first one in this weekend. Any pro-advice. Someone told me to take out the entire unit and to beat it out that way. I just want to be prepared and use any tips I can gather up this week. I've been told it's a tedious, but doable job. Also, in the book it says that the bolts need to be tightened to a certain torque. Do I need a torque wrench or can I do without one?

 

[Harry_Ward]

First thing before the big u-joint removal is to make sure it is the universal joint making the noise. Grab hold of the driveshaft and turn it back and forth by hand while in gear and look for play (movement)in the u-joint bearing cups.

 

[DougF]

If it is the u-joint, before you do anything(after removal from car) mark both flanges so you know how to put it back together. If the flanges get turned from their original positioning, the driveshaft could end up out of balance.
After removing the retaining rings, it is easiest to press them out in a vice using a similar sized socket. It is best to press them back in because the pounding from a hammer can dislodge the needle bearings or break the cap.
If you apply a good glob of grease into the needle bearings before installation, it will help to keep them in position.
Keep checking all of the caps to make sure the needles stay position.

 

[69tr]

If, when you get the caps back on and one of them does not go on as far as the others, one of the needle bearings has probably fallen out and turned. STOP! Remove the cap, straighten out the needle bearings and (as DougF said) apply a glob of grease and re-assemble.
Been there, done that, paid the price
Good luck, Pete

 

[PeterK]

[ QUOTE ]
I've been told it's a tedious, but doable job.

[/ QUOTE ]

I did my own the first time but now, I pay the driveshaft shop $10 each to change them. It's cheap and done without chance of damaging the yokes.

Make sure that you use NEW lock nuts (need 16, 3/8"-24 thread) when you bolt the driveshaft back in.

 

[TheAssociate]

I'm going to do the same thing this weekend. I've done it before but it's been a few years. I'll let you know how it goes.


Adam H.
____________________________________________________________
1972 Triumph Spitfire.

 

[tomkatb]

If you purchase the U-Joints at AutoZone they will loan you the tool to change them. It looks like a big c clamp to press the bearings out. Harbor freight has them on sale for $30.

The alternative is a 5” or larger vise and a set of sockets to push the bearings out. The knocking them out with a hammer and chisel is very hard to do.

Another good tool is a can of brake cleaner to clean the joints before you work on them.

Larry

 

[guzzul]

I assume you're replacing the prop shaft u-joint (and not the axle u-joint). To drop the prop shaft out you will also have to drop the exhaust pipe. And as mentioned in an earlier post, make sure to mark the current prop shaft alignment relative to both differential and transmission mounting flanges, as well as the yokes on the prop shaft itself, to maintain current shaft balance.

I used a (big) hammer on the drive shaft yoke to pop the bearing cup out. Its preferable to use a vice or a u-joint remover, as noted in other posts, but depending on how long they've been in there, the bearing cups can be pretty difficult to get out. I wound up having to use the hammer, but I would try squeezing them out in a vice first.

When you install the new u-joint, make sure the grease zerk is facing the front of the car. Also, if you have a good look at the prop shaft yoke, you will notice one side seems to be more 'cut away' than the other. Hard to explain, but you'll see what I mean if you look. That extra cut-away area is to allow access to the grease zerk. So you have got to install the new u-j with the zerk facing forward AND make sure the zerk is on the correct side of the prop shaft yoke, so you can actually get at it later with a grease gun.

When you install the new u-j, make sure the retaining circlip engages fully in its yoke or flange ring. I have had a circlip pop out on me (not the prop shaft, but on an axle), and the bearing cap just follows it right out. No fun to drive and even less fun having to redo it it all.

Truthfully, if I had to do it all over again, I would just drop the drive shaft and take it to a shop. Getting the drive shaft in and out takes the most time, and removing and installing the u-joint takes the most expertise, so on balance I would just let the pro's do the u-joint part.

As far as the flange nuts are concerned, you shouldn't need a torque wrench. They only tighten down so far, and then that's it. Use new nyloc nuts, and tighten them right up.

 

[piman]

Hello all,

it is practical and not tedious to do after you have done a few. I always use a copper hammer to remove the flange, once the circlips are free, hold the shaft on a solid surface and hit the flange hard in line with the spider, this will drive one cap, rotate 180 degrees, and do the same. Then remove the flange and rotate 90 degrees, hit one leg of the spider this will pop the third cap, rotate 180 degrees and do the same. Usually it is quicker to do than for me to type this
explanation.

Clean up all the bearing cap housings and press the new caps in with a vice. As said earlier ensure assembly in the original orientation to help keep the balance.

Alec

 

[jerrybny]

Make sure the cap is all the way seated. The clip can be installed and the caps may not be all the way down which can cause minor clunking noises. Ask me how I know. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif