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turn signal problem

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ekamm

ekamm

Jedi Warrior
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So it seems every time I take my tr3 out I develop another problem and I know that that's to be expected. This time my left turn signal stopped working. I am going to start an total interior refurb and I guess that I'll be taking on that now as well. I'm pretty sure that the stator tube is broken as the control head spins freely and the turn signal won't return. So my question is both front and back on the left don't flash but the right works fine. Is the problem likely in the switch?
 
Trust me, it eventually gets better!

Your problem sounds more like a broken wire inside the stator tube (from all the twisting). Could be a bad switch, but my money is on the wire. I would plan on replacing the wire anyway, since it will be damaged internally even if not visibly, and likely break soon if it's not broken already.

I bought a new control head sub-harness from TRF that looked great. Didn't want to pull through, until I coated it with "wire pulling lubricant":
https://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stor...27X-_-100647818
 
The control head wire harness from britishwiring.com is a smaller diameter so that it easily fits through the stator tube. Mine just easily pushed through.

macysgarage.com has replacement s.s. stator tubes.


I would start with replacing those two items.
 
So I guess that I should have asked if a bulb is out does it stop the whole side from working?
 
It ~may~ do. Some flasher units will blink faster, others won't have enuff load to "throw over" and so nothing happens. I'd start with: Ohm the bulbs and check/clean the contacts in the sockets.
 
Depends on the flasher, but the stock TR flasher will always light the bulb at least once. It's "load sensitive", meaning the heater inside the flasher is in series with the bulbs and the contacts open when it gets hot. Without enough load to get hot, the contacts stay closed. And generally, a "heavy duty" (aka not load sensitive) replacement will flash even with only one bulb.

Certainly won't hurt to check the bulbs & sockets; but since you know the control head is turning (and hence damaging those wires), I'd still start there. If one side doesn't work after you tend to the control head & it's wiring, then start troubleshooting the rest of the system.

Obviously, a wiring problem outside the column/head could also be the culprit; for example the 4-way sleeve where the control head wire joins with the turn signal wires can sometimes break internally.
 
Always check the simple stuff first!
I bought a car in '92 that I soon realized had no brake lights -- bad!
I immediately replaced the switch. Still no brake lights. I started chasing circuitry: power everywhere. Hmmmm... FINALLY I checked the bulbs. BOTH brake lamp filaments were out. Duh...
 
I agree with Randall. Untill you correct the stator tube problem, and get that head mounted solid, everything else will eventually quit working as the wires become more and more damaged behind the control head.
That's likley the issue to begin with anyway.
You'll have the wiring all out to replace the stator tube, inspect it then. I bet you'll find it broken.
Fixing the wiring without repairing the stator will only gain you a short time till it breaks again. and fixing the stator will give you back your self-cancelling function of the signals. It's well worth the time and effort.
(Plus it's always fun to see peoples reaction to how the control head dosen't turn with the wheel the first time they see it.)
 
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