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turn signal knocked off center

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ah60_68

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switch 1.jpgswitch 2.jpgswitch 3.jpgI have somehow managed to knock my turn signal (trafficator) in my '60 BT7 off center. Now it does not want to stay on for a left turn. I tried to just twist the switch back into place but no go. Is there a way to fix this without taking the whole thing apart? Where could I find some detailed instructions for fixing this? Thanks...
 
Loosen the nut & olive on the front of the steering box, turn the trafficator (turn signal switch/horn push) where you want it and re-tighten the nut & olive.
 
Be prepared for a bit of the steering box oil to seep out. Also, one thing I 'discovered' while doing extensive work on my BN2's box was to leave a bit of a gap--1/32" or a bit more--between the trafficator 'dome' and the steering wheel hub. If you place the trafficator against the hub the hub will likely rub the trafficator when you turn.
 
I also found it helpful to have a second person hold the trafficator/horn assembly in place while you re-tighten the nut on the steering box. It keeps it from twisting with the torque.
 
MikeAH100M said:
I also found it helpful to have a second person hold the trafficator/horn assembly in place while you re-tighten the nut on the steering box. It keeps it from twisting with the torque.
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Hey all. Longtime lurker and infrequent poster as life gets in the way sometimes.
Anywho, I've had this exact same issue for a while but didn't want to get into it. Here's the newest newbie question. How the heck do yall get to the Olive/nut? I shined a light through my grill and see the box and nut right there. Doubt you can get at it from top. Do you guys have a procedure you can share? Seems like popping out grill would be most direct access but how does one do that? I can't see another way. Not from below I hope.
Cheers and thanks ks
 
On a 6-cyl car I believe you do have to come up from below as the wheel inner shield prevents access from the side (just put the front left on a jackstand). If you loosen the olive you'll probably get some leakage of fluid from the box.
 
I am not sure if the problem i have is exactly the same as the others in this thread, but it may be and I am wondering if the fix is the same!! The trafficator assembly works well but it moves slightly left and right as the steering wheel is moved...........movement is not very much but aggravating. I wonder if the olive nut can cause this same situation? Hope I am not changing subject!!

Thanks,

John
 
bluegrass john said:
I am not sure if the problem i have is exactly the same as the others in this thread, but it may be and I am wondering if the fix is the same!! The trafficator assembly works well but it moves slightly left and right as the steering wheel is moved...........movement is not very much but aggravating. I wonder if the olive nut can cause this same situation? Hope I am not changing subject!!

Thanks,

John
Click to expand...

If you have the adjustable steering column, there could be play in the telescoping tube setup. It's a crude dimple that slides in a slot so it gets worn over the course of decades.
 
OK Steve..........news to me but sounds like a problem solver. I will check out the parts manual to educate myself. (if possible)

Thanks for giving me a lead.

john
 
steveg said:
If you have the adjustable steering column, there could be play in the telescoping tube setup. It's a crude dimple that slides in a slot so it gets worn over the course of decades.
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Also, the slot the 'dimple' slides in is cut square at the end, and will develop stress cracks. The slot really should have had its corners radiused.
 
Ha! I didn't realize once I just crawled under bumper there's plenty of room to reach up to the nut. This thread fixed my problem as I too was able to readjust my trafficator! Sweet. Thanks.
 
My 1967 Austen Healey 3000 has a similar problem. I'm tightening the brass nut that should be keeping the horn/turn signals stationary but it still turns independently from the steering wheel. I'm afraid if I tighten it too much that I'll damage something. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Maybe it needs a new "Olive"? Seriously.
 
If the olive is missing/bad you would most likely have oil all over unless the box was filled with cornhead grease. I suggest you get under the car where you can clearly see the short piece of tube that extends out of the nut & olive and have someone turn the trafficator back & forth a ways. If the tube is turning then the problem is probably the olive. If the tube doesn't move when the trafficator is moved the the problem is most likely the dimple or the slot mentioned above.
 
John Fautz said:
I'm tightening the brass nut that should be keeping the horn/turn signals stationary but it still turns independently from the steering wheel. I'm afraid if I tighten it too much that I'll damage something....
Click to expand...

Just to be clear, the steering wheel and hub should turn and the trafficator--turn signals and horn button--should remain stationary. I've found that you need to leave a gap between the backside of the trafficator and the front of the steering hub; at least a sixteenth of an inch or so else the hub can rub the trafficator and attempt to rotate it. You can torque the olive reasonably tight; I'd guess about 10-15lb-ft wouldn't hurt anything. The olive nut is brass and the front plate of the steering box is steel so worst case you'd ruin the nut. I've also noticed that once torqued down pretty well the olive can develop a 'shoulder' on the taper that wedges into the front plate, so, you can usually torque the olive twice--once on each taper--before needing a new one.
 
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