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Tunnel "Vision"

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Ed, I like that cool-mat, I'm going to follow that suggestion. But I think the biggest piece of the adhesive backed stuff might be too small at 12"x24" to cover the inside of the tunnel.
 
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For heavy caked grease, I have used brake cleaner and then engine cleaner, repeating the process as many times as necessary to get the piece reasonably clean.

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Does anyone use just plain old mineral spirits, a 50 cent paint brush, and elbow grease? The cost of a few cans of spray each time something needs to be cleaned adds up fast. Maybe I am just not up to the world of overpriced disposable products yet.
 
Yep used three gal of mineral sperits and three paint brushes on a Bugeye from teardown. Hehe, also six cans of carb cleaner.
 
Don Lenschow located in Texas came up with a way of attaching insulated material to the under side of tunnels. His method uses metal bands that hold the material up against the tunnel. Not sure how he holds the bands on though. He can be reached at donl@healey.org.
 
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Does anyone use just plain old mineral spirits, a 50 cent paint brush, and elbow grease? The cost of a few cans of spray each time something needs to be cleaned adds up fast. Maybe I am just not up to the world of overpriced disposable products yet.

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/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif Candidly, I hadn't thought of that, I've only used it to clean up after oil based paints, I have a gallon, or two, at home, I will try it, thanks. Do you think it will leave an undesireable residue that might prevent adhesion?
 
I use mineral spirits in my parts cleaner, and always have some in a pump spray bottle for spot cleaning. Problem of course is disposal. For degreasing large items, such as transmission, rear end, etc., a water based degreaser in concentrate form is probably best, for it can be highly diluted before going down the drain, or wherever.
 
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While you are ordering, get one of these for under the carpets on the drivers side. It can be cut to shape, wrap some duct tape around the edges to keep it from comming apart. It will cut down on the heat getting up through the floor and seat,
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/coolit.php

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I like the way we think here.

Here's another link to another product, called Low-E
https://www.lobucrod.com/
Cost: 4x10 $27.50

I glued it to both the outside of the fiberglass transmittion tunnel (under the carpet) and the inside floor and sides of the car. Used contact cement.
Used that instead of jute. For Low-E will not absorb water, cushions like jute, helps reduce heat better than jute.
Photo attached.

Inside of the trans tunnel, drive shaft side, Pegasus.

Cheers, Roger
 
I like it, the only problem is, I have the original jute still in place and still in really good condition. (except where the failed clutch master cylinder oozed hydralic fluid on it!) Although, I could use it on the tunnel top.

I see that dynamax stuff everywhere in your photo as well, does anyone have any experience, before and after, using that stuff?
 
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Ed, I like that cool-mat, I'm going to follow that suggestion. But I think the biggest piece of the adhesive backed stuff might be too small at 12"x24" to cover the inside of the tunnel.

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You will need several pieces of the adhesive backed stuff, plus I used some of this to help " fill in " the odd areas between pieces;
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/thermoshield.php
This is the same material just in a narrow tape like shape. I used my left over pieces on the firewall portion of the car in front of the tunnel....
Any good degreaser can be used to remove the crud. This includes any strong soap. They still sell trisodium phosphate powder in a small box for a few bucks at Lowes. Just mix it in a bucket of warm water and wear rubber gloves because it will also disolve all of the oils out of your hands. Once it looks clean, then wipe it down with paint thinner or any other solvent you already have around. The glue on the back of the pieces
appears to be a very good quality and should hold a very long time if all of the oil residue has been removed from the fiberglass tunnel... I wish my car looked as good as Roger's ! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
Thanks Ed, I had thought I'd cut and massage a larger piece, but that's a good suggestion. I've gotta stop planning at some point here and take the plunge by buying something. I haven't had time to tackle the de-greasing yet, too much time on the road. I actually have some TSP and paint thinner, so I think I'm pretty well armed for the upcoming holiday vacation. I wonder how the aroma will mix with the turkey? Thanks again for your insight.
 
An Update:

OK – Tunnel is relatively clean, thanks to the local car wash. I’m going to use TSP and then Simple Green (Which Tractor Supply has by the concentrated gallon for $10) to get it sparkling clean.

I ordered from aircraftspruce, (thanks Ed) 3 pieces of the 12x24, the tape, and the cool-mat. I have to start scrounging for the foam sealing tape now.

Boy, it was a real greasy mess under the tunnel. One of my boys has been going at the gearbox; he's got it pretty clean.

I found the original carpet, in excellent condition, on the bulkhead/firewall, forward of the gearbox, the PO had put a replacement carpet kit in, and I took it off.

I'll post pictures when I get the stuff on the tunnel.

I also found source for the original Colorado red paint in single stage; I'm going to use it to finish the detailing in the engine compartment, if it's a close match.
(Paintscratch.com) I found an original paint code, thanks to this forum, and forwarded it to them, they found a DuPont code and added it to their website, very accommodating, especially if the paint really is close to the original.
 
Hi DAR, I was having some draft issues with my gear box cover. Not being able to find an appropriate seal I decided to chaulk the flange with a liberal bead of 100% silicone chaulk. (used Clear). When I set the cover down it oozed out real nice and even. Let it set-up over night and then installed the carpet. Some time later, I had to remove the cover. I used a putty knife to slide under the joint to break the seal. Once separated the silicone pulled away in almost one continuous length. Worked great. No drafts. I just reapplied another bead of chaulk when I reinstalled the cover. Been driving it that way all this past summer. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
Interesting. I think the silicone would provide a really good seal, but I'd be afraid I wouldn't be able to break the bond. I'm going to try looking for the camper seal this week. The original jute(?) stuff is still on my floor boards, I'm not sure where I'd put a bead of silicone, except maybe right on the top edge of the lip of the floor pan. Thanks for the info!
 
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