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Tunebuggery Day 4: brake lines and M/C

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drooartz

drooartz

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Today was brake line day. I started working on the brake/clutch master cylinder and pedal box, getting everything cleaned up and reassembled. The master cylinder was rebuilt some time ago and properly sized for the disc brake conversion. The pedal box gets assembled on the bench, then the entire unit is dropped into the car.

mc_bench.jpg

<span style="font-style: italic">Master cylinder assembled on the bench</span>

Once the master cylinder was installed it was time to move to running new brake lines. Back in 2006 when I bought the Tunebug I bought a new set of hard brake lines due to a leak in one of them. These lines have the proper ends and are the right length, but need to be bent to fit in the car. I remember that the last one I did took some time, so I was prepared for the work today.

bending_lines.jpg

<span style="font-style: italic">Bending the first line</span>

There are three lines that I need to replace: From the master cylinder to the union, from the union to the front left wheel, and from the union to the rear axle (the line to the front right wheel was replaced in 2006). The first line from the master cylinder to the brake union went relatively smoothly.

line_in.jpg

<span style="font-style: italic">Master cylinder to brake union in place</span>

The next line, running from the union to the front left wheel, took much more time. It's a complicated bend, running underneath the steering rack and threading around all sorts of bits. The trouble came in once I got to where the new line meets the soft line for the front disc brake. The hard line I was working on seems to be a couple inches too long -- either my bends were a little more direct or the line is a bit over long. I'll need to go back and fix the bends tomorrow; I was starting to get frustrated so it was time to leave that project.

line_long.jpg

<span style="font-style: italic">Line a bit too long</span>

So I did make progress today, but it was not as visible as in the previous days. Still, it was seven hours of work that needed to be done, and it's more thing done off the list. Four days in and I'm still at it. So far so good!
 
You did the right thing, walk away when you get tired and frustrated and let your noggin work on it over night.
 
I've heard 2 versions re: the master cylinder when converting to disc brskes. Should the master cylinder be resized to the disc brake conversion? Also how did you make your bends for your brake lines?
 
I had my master cylinder resized/sleeved for the disc brakes.

As for the brake lines, I used the bending tool from Moss -- though in the end I didn't have much luck getting them done properly. I wound up ordering a set of pre-bent lines from Classic Tube (https://www.classictube.com/) -- they're due in a few weeks. Just couldn't get the lines bent right. My bad, I'm sure, as others here have been able to make up their lines just fine.
 
I think I'm going the pre-bent route, thanks. Who rebuilt your MC. Also are you doing anything w/ the shocks? e.g. rebuild, skip it or address later. I'm considering Apple Hydraulics for rebuilt shocks.
 
Ralph,

Peter C. is the way to go for rebuilt Shocks. He is the absolute guru of shocks. His DO NOT LEAK and are Guaranteed Period. Call Peter C. and don't waste your time with ANYONE ELSE. You will get multiple folks affirming the exact same feelings about Peter C.'s shocks. NFI, just a satisfied customer and Peter C. is a member of this list.

nosimport@mailbag.com
>
> Peter Caldwell
> World Wide Auto Parts
> 2517 Seiferth Rd., Madison, WI 53716
> (800) 362-1025 Fax (608) 223-9403
 
Great info. I'll call Peter C.
Assume you had the MC sleeved to the 3/4" bore?
 
I had PeterC do my shocks, and Gerard's Garage (https://www.gerardsgarage.com/) do the re-sleeve to 3/4" on the master cylinder. I'm not sure exactly who Gerard used to do the work, but at the time he was having a run of the 3/4" pistons made, so I got in on the process.
 
He had Sierra do the work.
 
Not to hijack your thread Drew, but I have a set of front shocks from Peter C. that I will no longer be needing (installed tube shocks from Frontline), so if anyone wants to save a few bucks on front shocks (~1 year old) PM me.


Back on topic.....it looks like you're having a fun time! I'm a little envious of you......I haven't had time to tinker with the Bugeye for a few months now.
 
Fun may be a bit of a stretch, but I am getting stuff done. :smile:

I needed this week of focused work for a jump start -- having done nothing for the last 6 months at least.
 
I bent my lines with my thumbs and fingers. Seem to be ok and fit the clips fine.
 
Drew,
You probably did this..but just to make sure, bench bleed your MC before you get it all bolted in. Yes..this is another ask me how I know (AMHIK?)
If it is bolted in (mine was) I was seemingly successful with using a mighty-vac to bleed in place, but it was messy.

Keep up the good work..I'm getting jealous! :smile:
 
You can get decent bending tools from your local auto parts stores. This is one of the better ones I've found. https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3755
If you make nice gradual bends it doesn't seem prone to crimping off the lines as much as other ones. I usually try to bend the new line with the old line as a reference. With a little patience you can build your own lines at a fairly decent price.
 
That HF bender looks very like the Rigid one I've used for years. Works fine. The flare at each end is the tricky bit, IMO. Getting that down to a routine takes practice.
 
I've bent lines before and a bit of the bend at a time is the way to go. Also an old babyfood jar just seems to be the right size for many bends and or to clean up bends already made. Might not work on a front line, but I bent a back line that was to long and simply circled the babyfood jar. with room, an s would take up length, but you don't have the room. You have made a good choice to get away from your prob. at frustration, a little time away usually finds the resolution. I also vote for the Peter C. shocks, and the adjustable ones are nothing less than eye candy.
 
I used the cupro-nickle lines and they bend VERY easy. No bending tool necessary. I also learned that the ISO bubble flare is different than the SAE bubble flare, but the ISO version works fine in our application.
 
I'm sure it's possible to bend your own lines successfully -- just not in my garage.
grin.gif
The new lines are on their way, though it will take a few weeks. I've got plenty to do in the mean time.

I did not bench bleed the master cylinder, but I expect to remove it anyways to clean out the pedal box. I'll bleed it then on the bench.
 
I'm certain that bench bleeding the MC could help with brake bleeding, but I did not bench bleed mine, and I had no problems bleeding the brake or clutch. However, I did not run my lines as the stock lines.
 
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