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TR2/3/3A try start it with the key and it blows the fuse

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sp53

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Well I got the radiator to work—But now when I try and start it with the key, it blows the fuse with the green wires when I turn the key. I checked the wiring and it looks good to me. I have 12V at A and A1--- I unplug the gas gauge thinking that might be it. The wiper switch is off and so is the heater and the brake lights and turn signals lights are not installed. I am looking for some ideas. I guess the head light switch could be shorted or something. I should have tested the key with oil gauge out and the temp gauge out. It sure would have been easier to get at the wires to trouble shoot . Any starting points are very welcome; it has have been a long day.
steve
 
Try disconnecting the green wire at the wiper motor. Easy to get to, and a common problem spot.

The motor will short it to ground, if it's on the wrong terminal and the motor moves away from the "parked" position.

Headlights don't draw on the 'green' fuse, and the fuel gauge is the only gauge that depends on it. If pulling the wiper wire doesn't help, I would proceed from there by removing all the green wires at the fuse block, and testing each one for a short to ground (with everything turned off).

PS, it might help if you reminded us what car you're working on. In spite of what many sources imply, they aren't all the same.
 
Thanks for your help Randall, the car is a 1958 tr3A TS27036. The wiring harness is new from Moss; I gave them the vin and they gave me what they thought was correct. Thanks for the tip on the headlight switch because that is a bear to get out sometimes, and now I see the green wire is not involved.

This is the car where I first wired it from an Tr2, Tr3 diagram where I first put a second green wirer from the fuel gauge to the wiper motor switch like I saw in that diagram. Then later I changed that second green wirer from the fuel gauge and assumed it was there for the heater option; the second green wirer is odd because it fits nicely into the earlier tr3 schematic diagram, but the wiper motors do not fit that diagram, I would still have that extra wire at the wiper motor because of the later type wiper motor.

In short, I might have been wrong about the green wire.

Anyways I am going to try what you suggested first and isolate the wiper motor-- after I drink enough coffee.
steve
 
Depending on how accurately they followed the original, there may actually be two green wires to the wiper motor. The first one carries power from A4 on the fuse block to power the wiper motor, the second wire carries power from there back over to the brake light switch.

This diagram probably won't be strictly accurate for your car (you most likely don't have the line fuse for tail lights, which changes the wiring around the dash light switch). But should be close enough (and the fuse is a worthwhile addition anyway IMO)

 
Excellent call Randall you are the poop. I unhooked the wiper motor and everything is working, well except the wipers. How should I proceed to correcting the wiper problem? I think you first analysis was correct with grounded out wiper return deal. If you have the wire diagram that you edited, easily handy, could you post that one. I believe that is the correct one for this car. I need to put it on my thumb drive and copy it. If not, I can did out of the archives. Now maybe I can get some oil pressure and fire this thing up.
Thanks much steve
 
I was able to find the wiring diagram I was looking in the archives and saved it. I hope I did not offend you Randall when I said you were the poop because in the sandbox I play in that term means you are the best. Anyways, to undo whatever is shorting out with the wiper motor should I simply rotate the metal cover to a different spot?
 
No worries, I was just puzzled about why the one I linked to above wasn't what you wanted.

Just swap the wires at the motor. Run the BG wire to the terminal you currently have G on and vice versa.
 
I had the green wire on the correct lug; the problem is both lugs go to ground. When I rebuilt the motor, I must have done something wrong and un-insulated the lug. I checked the switch and it makes and breaks continuity to ground when moved on and off. The startup repairs are really adding up.
 
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