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Try finding THIS short.....

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I kept having problems with my turn signal on the right side. Just suddenly stopped working. I finally pulled the turn signal switch off the column and found this short, just wear and tear. Ya just never know.
short.jpg
 
Bill, it looks like the terminal came loose in the connector and melted the plastic(from what my ancient orbs can detect) and the wire crimp coming loose, wire insulation burning. Is this the case?

I would like to input a bit, in an attempt to correct some of the terminology. As proper labels, make it a lot easier to identify, describe, isolate, trace, diagnose and correct electrical problems.

You call yours a short. A short is when the voltage goes to ground and the circuit is broken by excess voltage draw(amperage, actually) popping the fuse, circuit breaker, or whatever is installed to protect the circuit. An open is when the terminals separate and electrical flow is interrupted. Usually caused by loose wire, terminal, heat and corrosion. In your case it looks more like an open circuit, the terminals weren't tight, and the continuous overheating of the circuit caused the insulation to melt.
 
Good find.
Always love electrical problems. While a GM tech about 25 years ago, warranty paid only a half hour to locate and repair any electrical problem. GM claimed that any time longer than that fell into the "OJT" category.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] While a GM tech about 25 years ago, warranty paid only a half hour to locate and repair any electrical problem. GM claimed that any time longer than that fell into the "OJT" category.[/QUOTE]

That was their attitude Paul, but in my shop they paid me "ST" as in straight time, or the car would be sitting until they sent someone in to fix it. I never made my techs or the owner suffer for someone else's mistakes.

We ate our own as OJT, but not theirs.
 
Ahh yes. Looks like one of your Lucas gremlins got hungry and snacked on that insulation. It happens a lot.
I've actually trapped a few of the buggers in glass jars. But they're elusive at times.
Here's proof!!!
463503720_c6ce0c6526.jpg
 
Actually, this is a friction-wear hole in the wire covering and exposing a few strands of the copper wire and allowing contact with the metal that it wore against. Just enough contact to short it out.
 
Bill,

There is an electrical product we use
on our boats for wiring that will correct
your problem.

It's called liquid plastic in a can.

When we splice wires together, like with a bullet connector,
we coat both ends of the connector sleeve with the liquid
plastic to seal out an water that might enter.

The stuff sets up into a pliable but sturdy plastic in
about ten minutes after the solvents gas off.

It costs like $3.00 for a small can . Far less than a new
turn signal switch.

d
 
Thanks Dale, but the switch was worn out as well, no longer would auto-return to neutral position when wheel straightened out. Had new one in box for 2 years waiting to install, this being when I found the exposed wire.
 
Interesting Bill,

I installed a new t/s switch during the Crypty entire
vehicle rewire process. Mine does not have auto-return
to neutral position. I thought that was just the way TR6s
function. Manual return to neutral position required.

Ya learn something new every day.

d
 
I had that short two years ago. It was very easy to find. Especially after it fried from the switch into the main harness.
 
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