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Tricks or Best Way to Install Front Fenders?

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K

kkaa

Jedi Hopeful
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Finally ready for paint, and wanted to ask if there are any tricks that can help make the front fender attachment a little easier. Any ideas?
 
Tape the 3/8 socket to the long extension you will be using so you don't knock it off on the underside edge of the shroud every time you move :smile:. Use a box end GearWrench for all the bolts that you can, particularly the three at the front on each side and the ones near the carb side. Loosen and pull back the large hose from the heater blower and push it down out of the way until you get those bolts behind it in. Get yourself a small mirror for finding where the bolts are supposed to go.
 
When installing the stainless bead, masking tape the fender and shroud edges and tape the tabs on the fender beading. The tabs are very sharp and can easily scratch fresh paint. Wear mechanics gloves when attaching the bolts, there's a lot of ways your hands can get scratched up while doing the install. You might have to cut the fingertips off to get enough feel to attach the bolts.
 
Great tip about using gloves with the tips cut off so you can get a better feel for the nuts and bolts. Will sure save your fingers and hands getting cut up.
 
Gloves...pfft...I like to think that I bond better with my machines when I leave a little blood here and there :friendly_wink:
 
If you haven't already completely assemble the car before paint, doors, fenders, shrouds, boot, bonnet and all the lights. Make sure all the fits are as you want them. Even install the stainless bead just don't bend over all the tabs. I also nip off the corners of the bead attachment tabs to make sure they do not gouge the paint. Make sure all the hinged openings open and latch correctly with their appropriate gaskets installed. This is your last chance to get everything correct. Have a good day!

John
 
Chris_Masucci said:
Gloves...pfft...I like to think that I bond better with my machines when I leave a little blood here and there :friendly_wink:
Click to expand...

OK, in that case another tip is to use an oil drain pan to catch all the blood you'll spill. :devilgrin: My car had been undercoated from new with something akin to road tar. You can see the texture in the right front of this picture:

It made for some particularly abrasive surfaces I came in contact with in doing the job of refitting the front fenders and I recall it as one of the most unpleasant tasks in restoring the car.
 
If blood is a sign of bonding with our Healey's, I should be "married" to all the ones I have worked on over the years. And now that I'm older(65)and as anyone who is knows your skin gets thinner with age, if you count the numerous bruises that appear whenever I stick my hands down into the great unknown, I am way beyond bonding with Donald's creations !!!
 
Finally ready for paint, and wanted to ask if there are any tricks:

Do not install the fender beading prior to painting the car.
 
I think I have done most of that which was mentioned, especially the letting of blood.

KKaa, I trust the door and rear fenders are not already installed as I believe the front fenders, after the front and rear shroud, should be the first side panels installed. Following the slightly loose installation of the upper fender bolts, I like to insert the bead, bending a minimum of tabs to keep in place, after taping the tab ends (nipping off the tab edges, as john suggests, seems a good alternative to tape) and then I install the door.. With the door snugged in place, I adjust the fender for best alignment of the curve and with even door/fender spacing. Once a best fit is achieved, I will start to tighten a few of the top bolts and install and snug the bottom bolts with an eye to maintaining curve alignment and even door/fender spacing If the door spacing changes, I determine whether shimming the door hinges or refitting the fender will solve the condition and then follow through. Once I am satisfied with front fender/door placement, I then install the rear fender relative to the door and follow a similar installation procedure.

Keep in mind that the original body panels were never perfect and the fit from the factory was best effort if you were lucky. When accepting delivery of my brand new 64BJ8P1, the height of the passenger front fender was more than an 1/8” higher than the door but the curve alignment was perfect. Today, perfect panel fit and finish are achieved by the body guy who modified the door or fender to produce consistent spacing and flat panels.

I am always amused by the perfection of restored Healeys and hearing their owner claim being as original when all panels are perfectly aligned and finished in modern paint and clear coat.

Enjoy the pursuit,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
Ray,

Thanks much for your pragmatic post. I am a long way away from rehanging my panels as I am still in disassembly stage, but I have already laid awake at night thinking about this step. As someone with that process in his future, I appreciate your calm, sensible viewpoint that these cars were far less than what we would consider perfect today, and your first hand knowledge is irreplaceable. Thanks for lowering my blood pressure on this matter!
 
Great hints. I will add one more. I find that small fingers and arms are a help in some places. Since my wife helps me with our restorations, I volunteer her for those tight spots.
Jerry
 
Thanks Guys. Ill post the pics this weekend. I have them hung, but didnt have the energy to fight the ones that need access from the engine bay yet. I knocked off a clip on the second one closest to the door opening, and well, had to take the fender off to put on another!!!! No way of getting a clip back on without removal, HA!
 
You will find all the above ideas and hints are true and consistent. Keep in mind that these cars were custom fitted in the factory and not to perfection back in the 50’s . One trick that I did use on my BT7 when hanging front panels ( provided the front schroud is not bolted down ) , was to loosely bolt up both front fenders to the unattached front schroud , then raise the schroud by putting wooden blocks underneath the engine opening areas along the fenders , this way the fenders now are raised high enough to get the tough bolts in before bringing the schroud down to fasten the fender bolts closest to the windscreen. It would also help to have an assistant help you pull out on the fenders as you raise or lower the front schroud , just to clear the pillar posts . At this point you can sight the fenders , make sure all the tabs are lined up and then once the schroud is lowered in it final resting spot , get down on the floor next to each fender and pull them open from the bottom and pull each tab for the stainless rod finisher , make any small adjustments and tighten down the front 4 bolts , once done move to the rear of the front fender to get those bolts in and use a long handle pair of pliers to pull down and bend the tabs to their final resting spot while your assistant pushes down on them form above . I have taken fenders on and off of a healey many times like most people have here in the healey world , this raised front schroud procedure worked very well , ( no blood ) , and tape on the end of the tabs is no big deal , it takes 5 min to rip off a small piece of electrical tape to put on each one - worked perfectly!
 
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