Trick needed - for body curve

[Hawkscoach]

Guys, I need to transfer the front shroud curve from one side to the other around/just past the headlight bucket back about 18". I tried to use a mold, however, after making a nice mold with a plaster, I realized the reverse curves don't allow me to transfer the shape. Anyone have a simple trick for this? I know the one side is correct, however, the other is off from a previous push. I just don't want it to be off when I am done and looking at it straight from the front. it seemed more simple when I started, but just can't figure out solution.

Thanks for any help.


Doug

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Guys, I need to transfer the front shroud curve from one side to the other around/just past the headlight bucket back about 18". I tried to use a mold, however, after making a nice mold with a plaster, I realized the reverse curves don't allow me to transfer the shape. Anyone have a simple trick for this? I know the one side is correct, however, the other is off from a previous push. I just don't want it to be off when I am done and looking at it straight from the front. it seemed more simple when I started, but just can't figure out solution.

Thanks for any help.


Doug

A good friend of mine uses Cherrio boxes for templates and uses them for the exact curve that you have problem with.
PS: Make sure the box is empty!

 

[HealeyRick]

Take a look at a profile gauge: https://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-15in-Adjustable-Profile-Gauge/dp/B003JUTXOM Mark out matching data points on each side of the shroud and transfer the profile from the good side to the bad side.

 

[Marvin Gruber]

For a longer, stiffer template I used a piece of wood paneling I had.

Marv

 

[nevets]

Do you have access to another Healey with a correct curve on the side of interest?

You can also try sawing sections of the mold you made from the opposite side and then making paper-board templates from the cut surface of each section (tedious).

 

[Randy Forbes]

To transfer a (curved) profile onto cardboard (I use the stiff filler cardboards that used to always be packed with "blueprint" paper) use a compass.

For a fender, a helper may be needed to hold the cardboard rigid, but align one (1) edge of the cardboard touching the fender (shroud) and spread your compass to the distance of the widest gap. Keeping the compass perpendicular to the shape (with the edge of the pointed end on the profile to be copied) trace a line (with the pencil end) from the widest gap back to where the cardboard is touching the profile.

This will give you an accurate (single plane) profile to use as a gauge from your good side to the side you're reshaping.

Making numerous patterns at different planes would yield a 3-dimensional template. Just make the number of patterns you need to be satisfied with the work.

Example; albeit on a much smaller scale:

 

[nevets]

What Randy is describing can work. You will also need to accurately measure where each profile is taken so that it can be transferred to the correct location on the opposite side.

 

[Hawkscoach]

Thanks for all the rapid replies and the information! I like cherrios and can enjoy before cutting the box.mmmmmm Great information and always a pleasure to get advise here.

One more question without starting a new post: Do any of you that did a full restoration have a list of parts/components that you knew "must" be replaced? for example, all electrical wiring, brakes, brake lines, bearings, firewall insulation, etc. Each "component" has several parts to it that typically need replacing. I have all the metal work completed, the transmission rebuilt, the engine machine work completed and rebuilt. I need to mock up the components prior to painting to make sure everything fits/works. My experience is on American cars so there are some obvious items. I know i will need to order more things as something always comes up, I am just trying to save some time and place a big order to get this phase started. (call me lazy but if there is a checklist already it will save me hours if not days). Car is a 59 BN4 100/6 and has front disc brakes (probably changed during its racing days). fyi, i coach football so my projects stall this time of year and I am trying to keep it moving thus trying to save time as I work full time also.

I am thinking of ordering through Moss this time, however, healey surgeons in DC has been great to me.

Regards,

Doug

 

[GregW]

I like THESE This is a 37" gauge.

 

[bob hughes]

Hey Greg

That is a nice looking piece of work, as far as I know, there is nothing similar on this side of the pond.
Note to self - must research it.



Bob

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Now that is a body tool. I bookmarked that site for sure.

Marv

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Hey Greg

That is a nice looking piece of work, as far as I know, there is nothing similar on this side of the pond.
Note to self - must research it.



Bob

Try this.

https://www.eastwood.com/15in-adjustable-profile-gauge.html

 

[twas_brillig]

Do a search for drafting curves - I came up with https://www.draftingsteals.com/catalog-drafting---drawing-aides-curves-tru-flex-graduated-curves.html as an example.

Also a favourite place for me is Lee Valley Tool; check their flexible curves https://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32536&cat=1,42936,42958 .

Share with us what you buy and how it works; man, I'd like to own that first suggestion just as a piece of art work!

Doug