tri carb vapor lock

[Galen]

Still no success. Tried everything.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Still no success. Tried everything.

Have you checked to make sure that the pump vent is open and not clogged?
Patrick

 

[BritishCarSpecia]

We have had this problem on many of the earlier cars prior to the moving of the fuel pump to the right side of the car. The problem is the heat of the exhaust causes the fuel in pump to vaporize and the SU fuel pump can not pump air. So to solve the problem you can move the pump to the right side and your problems will go away.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

We have had this problem on many of the earlier cars prior to the moving of the fuel pump to the right side of the car. The problem is the heat of the exhaust causes the fuel in pump to vaporize and the SU fuel pump can not pump air. So to solve the problem you can move the pump to the right side and your problems will go away.

David, Why would the car work okay since 1962 and all of a sudden have this problem which you recommend moving the fuel pump from its original location? Maybe there's a different type of muffler than what was there before? How about a heat shield between the muffler and pump?
Patrick

 

[BritishCarSpecia]

I have not tried a head shield but it should help for sure. There are also many other reasons that could cause this problem. Many times this can be mistaken for a ignition problem. So be sure and check the ignition timing, point gap and remainder of the ignition system.

 

[Galen]

The fuel punp is on the right side opposite the muffler. Electrical is the next avenue of exporation. Everything is new there including witing harness. Nevertheless I am going fishing for 10 days and will regroup after I have caught all the fish in the Texas lower bays.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

The fuel punp is on the right side opposite the muffler. Electrical is the next avenue of exporation. Everything is new there including witing harness. Nevertheless I am going fishing for 10 days and will regroup after I have caught all the fish in the Texas lower bays.

Let me know when you get back and I'll run over your place and help you troublshoot.

"Listers": I used to own Galen's car 31 years ago and now he wants warranty work...LOL. Okay with me, because I want a fish fry.

Patrick

 

[66ejag]

Galen,
I have a tri-carb. Each bowl is vented to atmos via the rubber overflow tube connected to each bowl cover. If it were me, I would remove each bowl cover to confirm that the gas/floats are at the same level. Subsequently, blow thru each overflow tube to confirm they are open.

My see-thru filter, fitted in the line immediately upstream of the #1 carb, is never full of petrol when the engine is running.

Have a good day,
Ed S. (66ejag)

 

[Galen]

solution, solution , solution

Well its been a long road to finding out the problem but success has been realized. At last writing the complete fuel system had been checked. The perplexing issue was why there was a vapor lock in the carbs and why was this brand new engine cutting out at 3000 rpms.

I took all the float bowls off and had the seats and vents checked out. No real issues here.

Did a compression check and had 165 to 180 lbs. no problem here.

Checked the timing with a light. Set at 15 degrees. Noticed that there was constant light on the mark. Replaced the magnetic ring on the distributer. (electronic ignition) and everythings back to normal. Could this have been the issue? No - the car still sputtered at 3000 rpm.

Checked the vacuum. Should have beeen reading 20 inches mercury but could only muster 10. We set the timing based on getting the maximum amount of vacuum. We were able to advance the vacuum to 18 inches mercury. Set everything and went on a cruise. The problem is solved.

Set the timing with Vacuum. Now why is this. Could the new BJ8 cam(non-stock for my BN7 tri-carb) have been the difference. Could the timing mark on the crank been off from a previous crank re-build? Who knows but I can tell you the car runs like a spotted ape running from a lion. I can now fine tune the timing by adjusting the wheel on the distributer.

Thanks for all the help.

Patrick - We caught lots of fish and a fish fry is in the works.

 

[Michael Oritt]

For heat shielding I would recommend the flexible stuff that you can buy online at many racer sites. Wrap the pump, the bowld and get the stuff that goes around the fuel lines themselves.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

solution, solution , solution

Well its been a long road to finding out the problem but success has been realized. At last writing the complete fuel system had been checked. The perplexing issue was why there was a vapor lock in the carbs and why was this brand new engine cutting out at 3000 rpms.

I took all the float bowls off and had the seats and vents checked out. No real issues here.

Did a compression check and had 165 to 180 lbs. no problem here.

Checked the timing with a light. Set at 15 degrees. Noticed that there was constant light on the mark. Replaced the magnetic ring on the distributer. (electronic ignition) and everythings back to normal. Could this have been the issue? No - the car still sputtered at 3000 rpm.

Checked the vacuum. Should have beeen reading 20 inches mercury but could only muster 10. We set the timing based on getting the maximum amount of vacuum. We were able to advance the vacuum to 18 inches mercury. Set everything and went on a cruise. The problem is solved.

Set the timing with Vacuum. Now why is this. Could the new BJ8 cam(non-stock for my BN7 tri-carb) have been the difference. Could the timing mark on the crank been off from a previous crank re-build? Who knows but I can tell you the car runs like a spotted ape running from a lion. I can now fine tune the timing by adjusting the wheel on the distributer.

Thanks for all the help.

Patrick - We caught lots of fish and a fish fry is in the works.

Great to here you caught a lot of fish!! Beer goes great with fish and Healeys!! I think your cars fix will make everyone look for the not so obvious in the future!! Warranty reconsiliation includes BEER!!
Patrick