-
Hi Guest!
You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
TR6 TRF TR6 Starter
- Thread starter DNK
- Start date
Share this page
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
No, but it's mighty simple. Big wire goes on the big post. White/red goes on the little terminal.
That leaves the white/yellow (on some TR6, not all), which you can either leave disconnected (but insulated/tied back so it can't touch anything), or hook up with a diode (not supplied) to the WR terminal.
That leaves the white/yellow (on some TR6, not all), which you can either leave disconnected (but insulated/tied back so it can't touch anything), or hook up with a diode (not supplied) to the WR terminal.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
If present, it shorts out the ballast resistor during starting, to ensure a hot spark when the weather is cold (like below freezing) and battery cranking voltage is down. IMO in Seattle, you'll never notice the difference.
Early TR6 (and all previous TRs) didn't even have that function; and some of the later TR6 use a relay instead of the starter solenoid.
PS, on one of my Stags, that wire broke at the starter solenoid, and would touch ground only sometimes, while climbing a hill. That was a fun one to find! When it touched ground of course, the engine would just stop running like the key was turned off.
Early TR6 (and all previous TRs) didn't even have that function; and some of the later TR6 use a relay instead of the starter solenoid.
PS, on one of my Stags, that wire broke at the starter solenoid, and would touch ground only sometimes, while climbing a hill. That was a fun one to find! When it touched ground of course, the engine would just stop running like the key was turned off.
Don - on a '74 it connects starter relay to coil based on this;
https://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf
Assume you are already past this point, but if not;
https://www.thedrivenman.com/british/Starters/solenoid.html
https://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf
Assume you are already past this point, but if not;
https://www.thedrivenman.com/british/Starters/solenoid.html
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Dan's panel appears to eliminate the resistor wire ballast, replacing it with a (much more reliable IMO) discrete resistor. But I don't know if the resistor is supplied with the kit or not. If not, you should be able to buy one at your FLAPS. (TRF has them too, but I don't recall the P/N offhand.)
Dan's diagram also shows a WN wire from the coil to the starter solenoid; no idea why WN instead of WY.
Dan's diagram also shows a WN wire from the coil to the starter solenoid; no idea why WN instead of WY.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Does it crank and not fire? Or just not crank?
If it cranks but doesn't fire; my first step would be to bypass the entire harness, switch, etc and run a hot wire from the battery directly to the coil (disconnecting any other wires to that terminal). Then try to start it (keeping in mind that the key won't shut it off if it does start). If it still doesn't fire, then the problem is not the new wiring harness.
If it cranks but doesn't fire; my first step would be to bypass the entire harness, switch, etc and run a hot wire from the battery directly to the coil (disconnecting any other wires to that terminal). Then try to start it (keeping in mind that the key won't shut it off if it does start). If it still doesn't fire, then the problem is not the new wiring harness.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Ok, so a quick test would be to have someone hold the key in 'start' while probing the starter terminals with a voltmeter or test light. If the big terminal doesn't have power, there is a bad connection between there and the battery (or the battery is too dead to power the starter). If the little terminal doesn't have power, there is a problem with the new harness and/or relay on the "power plate".
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
If there is more than one WR, then I think it must be one of the kits with a starter relay.
Pull the relay out, connect a test light between terminal 85 (in the relay socket) and 86. Light should come on when the key is turned to 'start'. If not, the WR from pin 85 to the ignition switch is not installed right, or the ignition switch is bad, etc.
If that looks OK, momentarily jumper between terminal 30 and 87. Starter should crank. If not, then the heavier (I assume) WR is not properly installed (or the starter is bad or the power block is not getting power, etc).
If both tests pass, the relay is probably bad or not making good contact with the socket.
Divide and conquer.
Or in engineering terms, use a log
approach unless n is very small (and in this case it's not).
Pull the relay out, connect a test light between terminal 85 (in the relay socket) and 86. Light should come on when the key is turned to 'start'. If not, the WR from pin 85 to the ignition switch is not installed right, or the ignition switch is bad, etc.
If that looks OK, momentarily jumper between terminal 30 and 87. Starter should crank. If not, then the heavier (I assume) WR is not properly installed (or the starter is bad or the power block is not getting power, etc).
If both tests pass, the relay is probably bad or not making good contact with the socket.
Divide and conquer.
Or in engineering terms, use a log
approach unless n is very small (and in this case it's not).
OP
DNK
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Just heard from him, says he found a loose ground and now it turns over but no spark at the coil
Latest post
"Update: well I found a ground that fell off, so with that hooked up, the car will try and start in the start position like its supposed too. However wont start yet. I dont think I am getting spark. Pulled the wire from the dizzy of the coil, put a spark plug in it and didnt see spark. "
Latest post
"Update: well I found a ground that fell off, so with that hooked up, the car will try and start in the start position like its supposed too. However wont start yet. I dont think I am getting spark. Pulled the wire from the dizzy of the coil, put a spark plug in it and didnt see spark. "
hondo402000
Darth Vader
Offline
My 71 TR6 does not have a relay
Hondo
did the car start properly prior to replacing the starter? I put the same GR starter on my TR6 and had no problems, only 4 wires though, battery, 2 brown wires one from amp gauge, dont know where the other comes from and white red from the ign switch
Hondo
did the car start properly prior to replacing the starter? I put the same GR starter on my TR6 and had no problems, only 4 wires though, battery, 2 brown wires one from amp gauge, dont know where the other comes from and white red from the ign switch
hondo402000
Darth Vader
Offline
oops sorry, I have no knowledge of the advanced pannel
good luck
good luck
BobbyD
Jedi Knight
Offline
OK Don.......... here's what I've got:
75 TR6
AAW Harness with no ballast wire
TRF HiTorque Starter
The text came out a little fuzzy in the picture so:
Black wire is from battery
Two yellow 8 gauge wires: 1 from power block & 1 from alternator
The white connector on the starter is the white/red wire from the starter relay on the power block.
75 TR6
AAW Harness with no ballast wire
TRF HiTorque Starter
The text came out a little fuzzy in the picture so:
Black wire is from battery
Two yellow 8 gauge wires: 1 from power block & 1 from alternator
The white connector on the starter is the white/red wire from the starter relay on the power block.