TRF Gear Reduction Starters

[70herald]

Since this thread is somewhat related to Bill K's original one on his starter problem and I couldn't get my reply thru at the time. Has anyone else chewed up a ring gear using these things. A friend had the same problem as Bill did, but on a TR4. Which got me thinking could they be too much of a good thing (hi torque and hi speed) for the TR ring gears, which originally were simply induction hardened cast iron. A very thin hard surface over brittle cast iron. Maybe they just mill their way thru the teeth trying to engage.
Tom Lains
TS8651 & 58107

Should be better for the ring gear. The lucas starter is spinning when it hits the ring gear. the gear reduction starters engage first, and THEN start spinning.

 

[Aldwyn]

Well, ordered one on Friday night, and I was told by their web master that I was only the second person to order one. So, if it's not in my mailbox on Wed, I think that'll be a good indication if they had them in stock or not!

I am happy to hear the good stories about switching to this GRS, though! Makes me feel like my extra whim investment was worth it!

Dale, tough question. I would think that the flywheel on the 250's motor would want the starter for the 250, but it may not mount correctly since it's in a TR6. Then again, what kind of starter is on there now? TR6 or 250? That'll tell you'd I'd think... just buy the replacement of what is on there now!

 

[Cheapsnake]

FWIW, do search on ebay for these starters. I got one for my TR8, ~$200, had it in a couple days and couldn't be happier with it.

As for the ring gear getting trashed by these things, if your alignment and the throw of the starter gear are correct for engagement it shouldn't make any difference which starter you use. They all work on the same principle. By the way, why do they design starting systems (starter gear, ring gear) so that when they fail the piece that goes is the hardest to replace - the ring gear? Wouldn't it make sense to have the starter gear be the sacrificial lamb? my $.02 worth.

Tom

 

[martx-5]

Actually, the starter pinion gear is generally the first to start to wear. The problem with ring gear wear is that most people keep using a starter with a worn pinion gear because it only causes an occasional ziiinggg, or the noise of the worn meshing gears "isn't really that loud yet"! Each time it does that, the ring gear is wearing alittle more along with the starter pinion. Finally, it gets to the point where the starter will no longer engage because both the pinion and ring gear have been chewed up. Had the starter been replaced soon enough, the ring gear would still be servicable.

 

[Cheapsnake]

Thanks Art. Good advice to keep in mind.

Tom

 

[tr8todd]

I know that Woody Cooper at the Wedge Shop is a distributor for those gear reduction starters. He always has at least one in stock. I think he told me once that they were $190, so figure $200 with inflation. He mostly deals with TR8, but he can get all kinds of Triumph stuff. He has a ton of contacts for obsolete parts. He's doing a complete resto on a TR6 now for a customer. https://www.thewdgeshop.com or call him at 508-880-5448. He's a good guy as all of the TR8 owners know.

 

[TRMark]

Gents. if I may offer a suggestion regarding starter mount bolts:
I take a piece of 1/8" x 5/8" flat stock, about 1 1/2" long and drill a hole in the center of it. Slip this over the shank of the bolt, and weld it to the bolt head. You'll never have to use two wrenches again, as the new "ears" will wedge themselves in place, preventing the bolts from turning.
It's worked for me for years.
Jeff

Hey Jeff, thanks for the idea. I took it one step further on my TR4. Since I had my tranny out to drill and bolt the cross shaft and yoke, I decided to make changing the starter (gear reduction type) a little easier. I welded the the top starter bolt to a plate that is held in place by another tranny mounting bolt. Not concerned about the lower one as it is accessible from the bottom.

 

[billspit]

Weird that TRF is having a sale on starters they dont even have! :-0 And acting like they are going to sell out... how can you sell out of a starter you dont have in stock in the first place?!

But it doesnt surprise me that they are rebuilt. What does surprise me is that they are not advertised as such.

That wouldn't be the first time!

 

[Aldwyn]

For those of you playing at home, I called TRF today since it'd been a week without seeing my starter, and it normally is here is two days.

Sure enough... the part is on backorder. They are expecting them in "sometime next week".

 

[Andrew Mace]

Do I order a TR250 or TR6 starter motor or
solenoid from Moss?

Good question. In an ideal world (which, apparently, is NOT where your car is from), the starter for a TR250 motor would be the almost absurdly common model M35G also used on most all Spitfires, GT6s...and a whole bunch of other British cars. Before you order anything to replace it (assuming you HAVE to, that is), get a part number off it (something like 25079x).

As for the problem you described, it could be that the starter Bendix is sticking a bit, so it doesn't always engage. If so, try washing it down with gas or carb or brake cleaner...and then leave it dry (as in do NOT lubricate it except possibly with a bit of dry graphite lubricant). Might help!

 

[Tinster]

Thanks Andy,

I guess David and I will see what happens
next week. I spent an hour in the specialty
nuts & bolts store this afternoon purchasing all
new #8 bolts for Crypty's clutch/tranny install
attempt next Wednesday.

d

 

[Andrew Mace]

Good luck, Tinster!

I wish I could join you and David in playing with Crypty. It was 38 years ago this week that my high school concert band was "touring" Puerto Rico (yeah, we had one cool band teacher to set up a tour like that!). I've not been back since but hope to get there again someday....