Transmission removal

[Morris]

As I understand things, the transmission cannot be removed from a '79 Midget without pulling the motor too. Why is this? Is it because of the frame cross-member below the transmission? If so, would it be possible to cut this cross-member and re-engineer it to be removeable?

Thanks,

morris

 

[Trevor Jessie]

I think it would greatly reduce the strength of the unibody. Even with the crossmember out, the tunnel is so tight it might prove difficult to get enough rearward drop.

 

[john_j]

"cannot be removed from a '79 Midget "...cannot be removed from any year Midget!

Yes, it is becasue of the cross member.

There was a thread here a while ago where someone had photos of cutting the cross member and bolting it back in place, so it can be done, but you lose the originality.

 

[jlaird]

Oh shoot, as I remember 17 bolts to remove the engine along with the transmisiom, and it certinly the easy fast way. About 4 hours labor.

 

[Bugeye58]

You're opening up a big can of worms by cutting the crossmember. Yanking the engine and tranny is no big deal at all.
I've done a clutch change at the track in an hour and a half.
For a street car, I figure about that much time to remove the engine and trans.
Jeff

 

[SilentUnicorn]

Look on the bright side... you can pull just the motor. But i would not want to put it back in that way.


mark

 

[Matthew E. Herd]

Mark, do you mean put it back in two pieces (engine after transmission)? I've never managed to get the transmission in, then install the engine. I can't get the splines to line up properly unless I'm manhandling the transmission out in the open air. Even then, its a real test of patience (and requires two people in my experience) to get the engine/trans back in without damaging anything (paint, most importantly).

 

[Bugeye58]

Matt, it can be done, but is not the best choice. If, for some reason you have to do it this way, a tilt adjuster for the cherry picker, such as an "Oberg", sold by Moss, is a must. This allows you to alter the angle of the engine in relation to the tranny as you lower it into the car.
Personally, I wouldn't attempt an engine/tranny swap without one of the things. It makes life so much easier, to be able to drop the tail of the tranny down, and then gradually change the angle of attack, as you lower everything into place.
Definitely worth the price of admission.
Jeff

 

[aeronca65t]

I used an "Oberg" on a rolling engine hoist last night, putting the 1275 engine/trans back in the Mk 2 Sprite we're using in the 4-enduro next Saturday.
It works pretty nice.
We used it about a week ago to pull the engine trans too, but it seems more useful for installation. In our case, this job is extra-complicated by the belt and pully arrangment on the front of the driveshaft used to run the alternator (which sits where the passenger seat is normally located).

In my home shop, I have a come-a-long mounted to the ceiling beams to pull the 1500 out of my racer. I just jack the engine/trans up a bit, roll the car back, jack up the engine/trans a bit more.....then one more roll and it's out. But the "Oberg" is a lot nicer.
For some reason the 1500 seems easier to pull without the trans (but you can also pull engine/trans as a unit)....the 1275 seems better to pull the engine/trans as a unit, in my opinion.

I would never saw out the crossmember just to allow the trans to be removed...sounds like a bad idea from the get-go.

 

[sparkydave]

I'll agree that installing the engine separately is a pain. I did that, but the trick I had to do was to take the front motor mounts out temporarily to get enough clearance for getting the engine in the right position. With the mounts in there I had to raise the front of the engine to clear them, but the transmission couldn't go high enough to match. Once I got them bolted together there was room to get each mount back in. I will have to agree that cutting the crossmember sounds like a bad idea, but would there even be enough room to slide the pilot shaft out if you did? Seems to me things are tight enough you would not be able to move the transmission back enough anyway.

 

[Bobroyston]

Speaking of pulling motor and transmission, I have a question.. Can a fellow use the two valve cover bolts to pull both motor and transmission? I can’t seem to find the answer anywhere… They look very small. Tks. Bob

 

[drooartz]

In theory yes, but I've never done so. I usually take off the valve cover to avoid damaging it, and use the rearmost manifold stud and one of the bolt holes for the alternator/generator bracket. Seems to balance reasonably well.

On a side note, welcome to the forum! You don't necessarily need to respond to these really old posts, feel free to just start a new thread with your questions. We're all happy to help!

 

[DrEntropy]

The factory tool uses the top two studs, the Bentley shop manuals show it. We made one using that illustration as a guide and have used it for decades, on many BMC units. Mini's to MGB's. The caution is the load must be vertical. No chains to a central lifting device, putting an angled stress on those studs. Pardon the background, couldn't find the earlier photo of it.

 

[Bobroyston]

Ok on the answers…. I’ll go ahead and pull it with separate chains, just to be on the safe side. Tks for the help. Bob

 

[LarryK]

I pulled my neighbors Midget trans without removing engine. Pulled the seats and came up thru the inside and out. So, long ago about 1973-74, replaced clutch and reinstalled. Did a Triumph the week before. Neighbor helped which made it easier. I read his manual and we hit it. This was before I started doing it professionally.

 

[DrEntropy]

I pulled my neighbors Midget trans without removing engine. Pulled the seats and came up thru the inside and out. So, long ago about 1973-74, replaced clutch and reinstalled.

umm... No modern Midget I've ever seen. Unibody, every one. Must've been a pre-war car?

1938 MG Midget:

 

[LarryK]

Was an early one. But I pulled it like the 120 Jag I had. Thru the floor board, remember it well, had to take off steering wheel to work, but I could not test drive it, could not get in and sit down. Same with TR6. Jag said you could not pull a V-12 XJS tranny in under five hrs. Well, pulled in an hr, had rebuilt and installed in an hr. Save 10 hr Jag shop labor. Am familiar with the Cs,Fs too.

 

[LarryK]

Reading on I must have removed the engine. Was renting at the time and shared 1/2 of an ooened door garage. Did not have engine hoist at the time, because being open garage things could get stolen. Upon reading the A came out the floor. I stand corrected Doc.

 

[DrEntropy]

No biggie, Larry. They all seem to "blend together" after a while. Many of the things we did I now look back on and can only say: "Did we REALLY do that?!?!"

Did an early 1900's Rolls clutch once, all I recall is the edges of that transmission were sharp as razors. No recollection of the job. Ferrari V-12's? Yep, a couple. V-12 Jags, yes, more than a few. 930 Turbo Porsches? yep, as a "factory trained" Porsche-Audi wrench. BMC A and B series lumps, no idea how many. Do I remember actually doin' 'em? BAH! "Just another banger."

EDIT: Over in the Lotus Forum there's a couple pix of "homework" I did and can't remember doing... and that was my OWN CAR!!

 

[LarryK]

I attended Mercruiser school in the late 80s. Was sick from food poisoning, but somehow retained the first fuel injection in their Checy motors. Bought tools to do them, but today have never saw one live up close. Gave the tools to a.friend. The things you go thru in the years and before computers and cell phone pictures are all forgotten or old memories.