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Transmission remote - Sprite Mk2A

AlFresco

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Hi,
wondering if the gearbox remote currently on my 1098 Mk2A (Australian) Sprite is the correct one.
In situ it appears to have 2A3411 VAF1 on the side.

Cheers from Tasmania!

AL
 
Hi,
wondering if the gearbox remote currently on my 1098 Mk2A (Australian) Sprite is the correct one.
In situ it appears to have 2A3411 VAF1 on the side.

Cheers from Tasmania!

AL


I'm not sure if you are trying to verify correct part number or functionality, but there isn't any difference in functionality between any that I am aware of other than the addition of the reverse switch around '67-'68.

Service parts book for MKI Spite (smooth case gbx) is 2A3411 Alternate is 2A3380. 1098 (rib case) 22A 480. If your gearbox is an early smooth case, it would be correct; ribcase is different. I believe a MKIIA should have a ribcase.
 
Thanks for that. I'll give you a bit more information. I was finding a tendency to jump out of 1st gear under load. I figured it was related to an issue in the 'box. Having spoken to a Sprite specialist some distance away I considered the length of the gear stick section below the large ball. His thought was that the 'throw' of the bottom part of the stick was perhaps too little due to being a shorter length below the pivoting large ball (the 'fulcrum'), and as a result would not fully select 1st and thus it would pop out under load.

I compared the length of the stick I had and it indeed it was shorter below the pivot compared to what is apparently standard for my Mk2(A) (with ribbed 'box). He sent a replacement but when fitted the movement is very tight and stiff such that any gear changing would be extremely difficult. I suspect that the section below the ball is too long.

So I am wondering if in fact the remote is not correct for the car. The old stick worked well but is too long in the upper part for a Mk2(A) and the knob ends up close to the padded bottom on the dash. Just adds to my thoughts that I might have a remote and stick from another model of Spridget or even something else BMC like a Minor
 
From what you say it does indeed look the case that it is for the earlier 'box, and therefore perhaps the stick is right and the jumping out of first is not related to the remote. I appear to have a remote and stick from a Bugeye
 
From what you say it does indeed look the case that it is for the earlier 'box, and therefore perhaps the stick is right and the jumping out of first is not related to the remote. I appear to have a remote and stick from a Bugeye

There are two different lengths under the ball, but it's not related to the jumping out of gear. You would recognize using the wrong one by the shifter feeling extraordinarily sloppy, especially for example, shifting into reverse - or in your case, being way too tight. I have experienced this mismatch on a couple occasions, and am familiar with the difference in feel.

The jumping out of gear is an issue with the 1st/2nd synchro hub. The outer ring of the hub is the fist gear, but acts like any other synchro hun for 2nd. The inner and out hub hold their position in 1st or 2nd by a set of 3 springs and 3 balls that fit into a detent on the inner surface of the out hub. If the springs weaken or break or in the detent ramp develops wear, the outer ring will not remain in place. Sometimes, these balls can even pop out of their home in the inner hub. Normally, this can cause the hub to lock in gear, but if the spring is broken or is sheared off by the rub retracting, there's not enough tension on the outer hub to stay in gear. This is especially triggered by the change in torque on the input shaft, i.e. removing throttle pressure. It can also be triggered by sloppy bearings and/or too much end play on the input/output shaft.

The cure requires inspecting and rebuilding this hub, and the gearbox in general.
 
Great info, cheers.
So just to confirm, the pairing of the Bugeye remote with the ribbed 'box isn't intrinsically flawed?
 
Great info, cheers.
So just to confirm, the pairing of the Bugeye remote with the ribbed 'box isn't intrinsically flawed?

Nope, should be just fine as long as you have it paired with the right shifter. What you may have is a remote housing or the entire gearbox from a Morris Minor. They are basically the same, although gear ratios are different. They were typically not equipped with the close ratio setup. Part numbers from the gears themselves will reveal which you have. The easiest to see if the number on the laygear. With the side cover removed and a flashlight, it can be seen without disassembling the entire gearbox.

One of my Morris Minors was upgraded to a ribcase from a Midget when the engine was rebuilt, the the unknowing owner used the smooth case Morris shifter.... was like stirring a vat!... ;)
 
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