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bob hughes

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Hi guys, help needed here
Just pulled the gear box on my BJ7 due to a slipping cluch, turned out to be an oil problem on the driven plate. On the way I discovered a dodgy Hardy Spicer on the prop shaft - now repaired, an off centre contact between the thrust bearing and the thrust plate, a broken leaver spring in the clutch mechanism ( 10 inch 3 lever variety), uneven worn lever ends and a worn thrust plate and a slight movement in the first motion shaft along with a worn bearing at the end of the crankshaft and a big wobble in the clutch fork mechanism.

The clutch plate and its mechanism will need replacing and so will the thrust bearing and thrust plate and the bearing at the end of the crank will also be replaced.

I want to replace the bearings in the clutch fork but can not remove the pine. I have tried from both ends but I am either not brutal enough or it is stuck in. How do you shift it or do you cut the shaft and sort out the pin on the bench?

Is it allowable to have a slight movement in the first motion shaft or should it be firm
Has any one experienced off centre wear between thrust bearing and plate.
How easy is it to replace the oil seal in the bell housing and if required the bearings on the first motion shaft.
The source of the oil leak is the back of the negine and I will fit one of these additional oil seals there.

Bob
 
Bob Hughes said:
I want to replace the bearings in the clutch fork but can not remove the pine. I have tried from both ends but I am either not brutal enough or it is stuck in. How do you shift it or do you cut the shaft and sort out the pin on the bench?
Click to expand...

Bob, It's a #2 taper pin that is driven out from the back to the front. I first removed the bell housing and cut a heavy piece of wood to support the clutch fork. I was concerned that heavy pounding would crack the cast material that surrounds the fork bearings so I carefully cut the length of wood to support the fork when the bell housing was placed face down (and used some hot glue to keep it place during hammering). I sprayed the taper pin with penetrating oil and then used a punch/hammer to coax it out. Early on the narrow end of the taper pin sticking out the back started to mushroom so I got in there and sawed it off flush to the fork. With careful and persistant hammering it eventually came out. The shaft was in good shape so I just replaced the bearings and taper pin. The new pin was slightly larger so I used a #2 taper pin reamer to get it to fit properly. I also replaced the oil seal in the bell housing .. very easy with a seal puller and tapped the new one in. Make sure you check the condition of the rubber bumper that cushions the shift rod travel. It fits in a recess on the back side of the bell housing. I have a few pictures of this area here:

bell housing

Sorry, can't help you with your other questions but there are some gear box and clutch fork technical articles here:

https://www.team.net/www/healey/tech/big_hly/index.html

Cheers,
John
 
Hi Bob, To replace the input shaft bearing the gear box must be taken to bits. Slight movement of the input shaft is permissible, however, it should not be floppy. The bulk of your clutch problems are the result of the clutch fork bushings pershing.--Fwiw--Keoke
 
Thanks chaps, helpfull as ever, one question John, how did you manage to cut the end of the pin off, by hand or one of those small Dremel type hand tools that run at about 10,000 revs
 
Hi Bob,

I used a hacksaw blade with plenty of duct tape wrapped around one end to form a handle and came in through the hole provided when you remove the fork boot plate. I would have used a dremel but no way to get access. Make sure you use a high quality punch of the right size and use a lot of light to see that it is being placed well. It's a tricky little job because the work area is so hidden. Good luck!
 
Well chaps an update on my problem - I could not do it so in the end took it around to the Healey work shop. Their approach was totally different and will only work on original pins - They undid the top screw on the pivot rod, screwed in a long bolt and with one or two carefull but powerfull blows sheared the locking pin then withdrew the pivot rod and the fork fell out. Then they removed what was left of the pin in the fork by drilling and / or tapping it out. The replacement pins are the rolled spring type now and should drift out easier.

Be aware this method is not for the feint hearted, you must be positive in the aproach and get that pin sheared with minimum number of full blows so that the bell housing is not distressed.

One ti file away I guess - cheers
 
Well Bob, since you let the cat out of the bag on that barbaric technique of removing the pin. If you drill the pin from the fat side first you don't have to hit it so hard!- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif--Keoke


P.S. You know that little screw you take out of the top! thats where you are suppose to put the oil when you be lubing everthing else up. PITA--- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
Right on Keoke, I can't fault the logic there, it makes good sense. In my view one would need to hold or brace the fork so that it can not move, with suitable timber packers and use a fine drill bit in a drill press, that should do the job. I would not like to drill it by hand, not much room for error.
 
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