transmission question.

[KeithN60]

hope your turkey day was a good one! Now can anyone tellme what would cause the trans to pop out of second and reverse?Is this a simple fix,or am I gonna have to find another one.Ive pulled the trans apart from the motor cleaned it up,now its time to go inside to see whats worn out. Found out the motor mounts were all broken,about two lbs of sand in the tunnel for the porpeller shaft figured someone did some rallying and got offroad some.Well please let me know what you think about the transmission thanks.

 

[Spridget64SC]

Some suggestions on possible causes;
Reverse-
Worn laygear 1st/R teeth. These are the 13 straight cut ones.
Worn bearings/bore/shaft in laygear.
Worn teeth on reverse where engages 1st gear wheel.*
Worn teeth on 1st gear wheel.*

Most likely the *'d items.

Second-
Worn dog teeth on 2nd gear*
Worn internal teeth on 1/2/R slide gear.*
Worn gear selector fork (1/2).

If this is a smooth case gearbox, new parts are very hard to find. If later rib-case, then replacements for most of the internal consummables can be found.

Not a "simple" fix, but not a total catastrophy either, except for the availability issue.

Finding the parts for a smooth case is the real challenge.

HTH,
Mike

 

[Gerard]

As already mentioned, the is typically 1st/2nd gear slider internal wear, where the detents no longer hold. If if pops out consistently when letting off the gas, this is almost certainly the problem.

 

[KeithN60]

thanks for the reply,it is a rib-case so I guess I need to open it up and take a look.this little project is about to get interesting. thanks

 

[Spridget64SC]

The rib-case gearboxes come in a couple of varieties. There were some very early ones that used some of the early Mini style gear teeth and are not compatiable with the later replacement gears.

When you take the gearbox down. Clean all the parts and check for ID numbers. Then, it can be determined whether or not you have the very early type Spridget gears, even Minor gears, late type gears or whatever. Most of the very early stuff is NLA, but some of the contributors to the BCF have been known to have a few new pieces and lots of select used stuff.

Gearboxes are not that hard to rebuild. Patience and perserverance, a couple of preventive measures and a good supply or source of the loose bits and pieces is all that is needed. Also, watch out for manual misprints. The Haynes manual gives bad advice on how to remove the input gear from a ribcase. Comes out from the inside of the case, not out the bell housing.

Mike

 

[KeithN60]

mike thanks for the info,Ill be sure to get the numbers off the tranny.Im using an older manual dated 1967 for the 948&1098 motors,however Ive been using tech manuals for some time,great for a refrance but never fully trust what you see and read!Been studying the parts break down over and over till I can picture how it fits togeather in my head.When I do open it up Ill get back and let you know what I find Thanks again Keith.

 

[KeithN60]

Mike thanks for the info,how do you know all this great stuff?Ive got to admit that Ive never been a car nut untill I saw my first BE.Just fell in love with the little cars.I used my wifes B-day as an excuse to buy one.Well anyway,does this # look right,left side gearbox 34238.Ther are several #s that all start 22A,on each seprate part of the tranni.thanks again for the info,Id really like tobe driving this spring. Keith N.

 

[rkep01]

The gearbox number should be stamped into the top of the gearbox just behind the bellhousing. At least on smoothcase. Not sure about rib case.

 

[Billm]

This may help:

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/u...list#Post407639

BillM

 

[Spridget64SC]

Gearbox numbers on the rib-cases are on the driver's side of the main case. Date codes are on the little ear sticking out the driver's side rear of the main case.

Back in the late 70's and early to mid 80's I used to rebuild about 10 - 20 gearboxes a year for a Charlotte, NC area salvage yard. He would bring me 3-5 a month and I would make as many as I could from the batch. Collected up quite a bit of stuff over the years. These days, I'm building about 6-10 a year. Mostly the straight-cut close ratio or Hewland/Webster conversions. But also do a few stock rebuilds.

With all those gearboxes passing through my shop, I would see stock stuff from all sorts of years, Goldseal replacements, Silverseal replacements and lots of backyard mistakes. The most common error is the oil application. Many came through with gear oil in them. Not something that worked well. These days with the nice synthetic gear oils that are more like motor oils in viscosities, it is not so much of a catastrophic consequence.

Check on the actual gears themselves. 22A is a very common prefix for the internal supporting parts.

I saw 2 Bugeyes in May of 1973 at my girlfriend's older sister's house, one a racer, the other a silver street car. Both belonged to the new husband. Had the same reaction. Had 4 Bugeyes of my own before Labor Day. The rest is history. Just brough home another 1275 engine, a 4.22 diff and a 3.9 diff last night. Quite an addiction as my lovely bride would say.

Mike Miller

 

[nomad]

For quick reference and to avoid me waiting for may slow computer can you guys tell me where the serial number break was in the ribcases. I have a couple off of 1098 cars and am wondering whether to fit them. I've read the early one is a problem.

Kurt.

 

[Spridget64SC]

For a quick reference, clean the input shaft itself near the front cover behind the splines. Look for a "22G229" stamped into the shaft. This is the good number to find. Later 1275's might show up with "22G1117" stamped instead. It is good too.

Early cars with NLA internals will have "22G171" or "22G172" stamped in the input gear shaft. "Mowog" is reaaaalllll early stuff and not likely to show up in a rib-case unless someone has been playing games with internals and cases.

Mike

 

[nomad]

Thanks much Mike. I'll check what I have.

Kurt.