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Trans Removal

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fabmandan

fabmandan

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OK, I have a ribcage trans. How do I get it out? I have an original service manual and it says to remove it with the engine or remove the engine first. Can't I just unbolt the trans and take it out the bottom?
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Can't I just unbolt the trans and take it out the bottom? [/QUOTE]

Nope - & when you slide up underneath, you'll see why.
 
Crap! Just went and looked. Crap! Thanks Tony.
 
Dan, removing the engine and tranny is a piece of cake. I'd guess that for a first timer, with the forum to help, it would take about three hours, tops. I can have one on the ground in about 45 minutes, by myself.
Jeff
 
It,s not so much doing it that I mind, it just seems so bass ackward. But I guess owning a British car I'll have to get used to it. Thanks guys, if I get stuck I know where to come for help.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]it just seems so bass ackward[/QUOTE]

Nah, the other cars are!

Remove hood, yank radiator, yank engine/trans combo!
 
Dan, these are unibody cars, and the combination of the trans tunnel and the lower plate provide the entire backbone of the structure.
Once you get the bonnet and radiator out of the way, there are only a handful of bolts, fuel lines, cables, and wires to remove prior to lifting everything out.
Just why are you pulling the tranny, anyway?
Jeff
 
Twon't shift. Got to take it apart and fid out why.
 
Dan, before you yank it, take the cover off the tunnel, remove the shifter, and see if you can spot anything obvious messed up with the shift rails. Sometimes these will get locked kind of in between gears and you can pop them loose through there.
Jeff
 
I did this just a few weeks ago on my project car. I have a large folding engine hoist but rigged a light (2 ton) chain hoist to the lam-beam in my garage and used it instead. I would suggest that the crank type leveler (Northern Tool, Harbor Freight, etc.) is an excellent investment if you're going to do this from time to time (and you will).

(more photos on my web site)

Ray

P1010012.JPG
 
I tried that. I can only get the shift rod to move side to side and it's very stiff. I really don't relish the idea of taking it out but I think I need to get to the shift rods and see what's what.
 
Thanks Jeff. I hope that's all it is because everything else on the car is in great shape. If any one has any suggestions as to how to de-gum without pulling it out, I'm all ears.
 
Tranny mount bolts, two on the bottom, at the crossmember, two on the side of the tranny tunnel, pull the carpet up off the tranny tunnel inside the car, you see them one on each side. Drain the tranny first or you have a big mess as soon as you tilt the gearbox/engine upon pulling, you'll also have to pull the shiftr, make sure you don't lose the small spring right in the shifter hole, when you pull the shifter. You can pull the drivesahft or not, it connect to the tranny via a slip joint, so it will just slip out as you pull, you'll also have to unbolt the slave cylinder from the tranny case.
 
mccalebr said:
I did this just a few weeks ago on my project car. I have a large folding engine hoist but rigged a light (2 ton) chain hoist to the lam-beam in my garage and used it instead. I would suggest that the crank type leveler (Northern Tool, Harbor Freight, etc.) is an excellent investment if you're going to do this from time to time (and you will).

(more photos on my web site)

Ray

P1010012.JPG
Click to expand...

Ray, I may get some disagreement from others here, but I would caution about using the valve-cover bolts to lift all the engine and tranny weight out with! I prefer to use a bell-housing bolt at the back and alternator(in my case but generator in most others) mounting bolt on the front or exhaust header stud! There is just a chance that you could bend/tweek the rocker-shaft stands/bolts by attaching it the way you have it! (I'd just rather not take the chance!) /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Actually I use the small ratchet straps from K Mart. Around the rear of the bellhousing and engine wedged just behind the pan and around the front of the pan and motor mounts.

I kind of like the idea of a sling and it does not seem to mar the paint.
 
Agreed! The motor and trans are light, however, there are other bolts that are better choices.
 
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