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Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
tranny re-install
- Thread starter 19_again
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"no-gear" makes it simpler to hook up the driveline and alleviates the need to crawl around in the cockpit all smarmy from wallowin' on th' floor to FIND neutral later.
The MGB? Are you slotting it and the engine in as a unit (I hope)?
(he asks with trepidation) :shocked:
The MGB? Are you slotting it and the engine in as a unit (I hope)?
(he asks with trepidation) :shocked:
If you are installing trans first and then installing the engine the problem is getting the clutch splines lined up. I usually have the car in any gear and the rear wheels on the ground.(drive shaft hooked up!) A 1-5/16 scoket on the crank nut and square up the engine to the trans. Then slowly turn the crank and hope it pops together easy. When you get it together install 2 engine to trans bolts first. The holes in the backing plate are smaller on the one behind the oil cooler line and the one at the bottom on the driver side.Its MG's way of not using any dowel pins. Also you can not get to the top bolts to install them after the trans is mated to the engine(when installing engine and trans seperately)Be sure to put them in place before offering the engine up to the trans. I hope this helps. Bob
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Yup... ya pointed out all the pitfalls of doing it one piece at a time, Bob. Could get lucky and have all line up first go... not unheard of.
It really ~IS~ easier to put the trans up to the engine and bolt it all together on the floor first, then slot it all in as a unit.
I've done it one-two numerous times. I've done it as a unit dozens, if not 100+ times. I will avoid pulling/replacing one at a time like th' proverbial plague. Even with a "pilot shaft" things can go downhill. I use a worn input shaft as a clutch alignment tool and have still had things go sideways.
It really ~IS~ easier to put the trans up to the engine and bolt it all together on the floor first, then slot it all in as a unit.
I've done it one-two numerous times. I've done it as a unit dozens, if not 100+ times. I will avoid pulling/replacing one at a time like th' proverbial plague. Even with a "pilot shaft" things can go downhill. I use a worn input shaft as a clutch alignment tool and have still had things go sideways.
Both ways work and each have their own issues. I just find it easier to not mark the paint on the latch panel and top of the trans tunnel. Sometimes i just walk away for 30 minutes if its being a butt and have a cup of joe. Eventually it'll go. Watch out for the ring on the pressure plate also. Don't want to go whacking it around with the input shaft! bob
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I may have advantage. I have a factory 'counterfeit' rig to bias weight and swing the assembly up and down fore-aft to preclude the scrapes 'n bruises.
"50* down-angle" for a start then crank the center forward to get it closer to horizontal to clear the top of the opening and crossmember.
And LOTS of blankets, just in case.
"50* down-angle" for a start then crank the center forward to get it closer to horizontal to clear the top of the opening and crossmember.
And LOTS of blankets, just in case.
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I cut cardboard templates to cover the firewall, tunnel and anything the unit could touch before installation. Makes for a friendlier atmosphere when all is done. Easier to pull the cardboard after installation than touch up paint. I would never pull them or install them separately!
