Trailing arm stud repair and new CV axles done

[Brosky]

This project is now completed and on the books.

https://www.74tr6.com/axles.htm

And so is the fuse panel conversion: https://www.74tr6.com/fusepanel.htm

Miata seats should be done later this week. I hope.....

 

[DrEntropy]

That CV axle setup is elegant, Paul!! Nicely done. :laugh:

 

[mrv8q]

<span style="font-style: italic">Everything</span>, as usual, nicely done. Good on ya', Paul!

Did you have any thoughts of going to the Nissan differential, and if so, can you use the RG half shafts?

 

[booley]

very nice documentation of a very nice job!
top shelf

 

[hondo402000]

when you test drive it or if you have give us a description on the new axles vs the old

thanks for the detailed repair

Hondo

 

[Andrew Mace]

Forgive me for expressing a bit of amusement at the spelling of "Hazzard Relay" in the fuse box; does that control the function that helps the car jump creeks?

 

[tdskip]

Yeh! So how does it <span style="text-decoration: underline">drive</span> Paul? Notice any difference in power application or ride etc?

Nice work (as usual), and thanks for the write up (as usual).

 

[SCguy]

Paul,

With the exception of grinding a little ofthe trailing arms for clearance the project look like the axles just drop in. Did I miss something? I've been thinking that this was beyond my ablities. Are there any other issues I should be aware of besides the possible rubbing?

 

[PeterK]

Forgive me for expressing a bit of amusement at the spelling of "Hazzard Relay" in the fuse box; does that control the function that helps the car jump creeks?

Well Daisy Duke that's funny, I missed that one. I often see gauges incorrectly spelled as guages too. Can't blame this one on Chinese to English translation. Quality control.

 

[PeterK]

Paul, those brake shoes look they need a little glaze removal. Maybe box in the shock mounts too if you need another project (like a hole in the head, I know!)

 

[Brosky]

OK, I'll have to check out the Hazzard Relay. I missed that one. Good eyes Andrew!

Brake shoes were de-glazed with a bit of 80 grit paper.

It rides and handles very well. I did a bit of "spirited" driving coming back from Eric's and it is just fine up to where the extra digits come on. I like the feel and I'm sure that as I get it out to drive more, I'll like it a lot more.

Larry, it really is a drop in operation but several things to consider.

You want two guys for the extra hands needed, especially with the trailing arms going in and out.

Richard recommends installing his nylatron bushings with the new axles. I bought them, but did not install them as I have new bushings in mine with only 2,400 miles on them and they seem to be fine.

The rear is easier to drop than the front suspension, so if you have a good set of jack stands and a jack, with the helper it is easier than you think.

The harder side is the right side as the exhaust can be tricky to get around when torquing the adapters to the differential hubs and then the axle flanges to the adapters. Two pairs of hands helps here as well. You can get a wrench up through the exhaust to hold the nut, but need to torque it from the wheel side in. One outside and one under.

The big nut that goes on the axles is torqued to 250 Ft. Lbs (I believe, but may be 225, so you want good accurate torque wrenches for that part of it.

The instructions sent are very clear, but I added the pictures that I thought would make it easier for anyone to do it. I will add some arrows pointing to the spot whee the silicone goes, etc., to try to make it bit clearer. Between my site and BobbyD's you should get a really good idea of what it takes to get it done.

Brakes will need to be bled, so another good reason for a helper.

And if anyone does this........do yourself a favor and do the studs at the same time and get them out of the way.

 

[Brosky]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Did you have any thoughts of going to the Nissan differential, and if so, can you use the RG half shafts?[/QUOTE]

With all of the other expenses, I decided that I could live without that part.

Good news is that the seat bottoms are done and they look great. Back covers are sewn up and they will be assembled and should be be done for Friday (fingers crossed)and hopefully I can get those in this weekend. Pics to follow tomorrow.

 

[BobbyD]

<span style="font-style: italic">Everything</span>, as usual, nicely done. Good on ya', Paul!

Did you have any thoughts of going to the Nissan differential, and if so, can you use the RG half shafts?

Kevin......interesting question as the CVJ price for use with a Nissan diff is $50 cheaper if it's being attached to a 5 bolt Nissan diff like I have. It looks like the stock diff and the Nissan 6 bolt diff all require an adapter plate which you can see in Paul's first picture of all the kit components. If you went to a 5 bolt Nissan diff, you'd probably just remove the adapters and if you went to a 6 bolt Nissan diff, you'd have to buy new adapters from Richard.

I went the opposite way. I had the Nissan diff first with my stock axles and you can see the adapters in the picture below. When I replaced the stock axles with his CVJs, I didn't need any adapters.

 

[Brosky]

Can you guys even imagine trying to do this stuff without these forums? The money, time and effort that is saved by everyone collaborating on their projects and posting it must be enormous.

 

[KVH]

This is an incredible forum, and the discussion, links and pics on the subject of trailing arms and CV axle replacements is really fantastic.

Now, here's a related topic.

If you're upgrading to the CV axles, or using a Nissan differential, what about upgrading the frame members and upper coil spring beam which I hear can be so problematic--or is that only an issue on the IRS TR4A?

Are there kits to be used and steps that can be taken to strengthen the frame in those areas, without removing the body from the chassis, or would such a project entail essentially a frame-off retoration?