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Trailing arm failures

startech47 said:
UNC is better for Aluminum. Heli-coils are better. Keenserts are best.

I second the Keenserts vote...you can get them at McMaster-Carr but you'll have to search on "Key locking threaded inserts" Here's what they look like
92070a120_fam.gif
 
Dale, those aren't antique driving glasses. You need a pair of these WWII RAF goggles like I got for driving in the TR3... :driving:

Those roads look like the ones in the Mazda Zoom-Zoom commercials...
 

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BobbyD said:
startech47 said:
UNC is better for Aluminum. Heli-coils are better. Keenserts are best.

I second the Keenserts vote...you can get them at McMaster-Carr but you'll have to search on "Key locking threaded inserts" Here's what they look like
92070a120_fam.gif

Sorry Bob- the inserts almost cost me my life once--never again!!
As far as I'm concrened they are crap-o-la.

d
 
Tinster said:
BobbyD said:
startech47 said:
UNC is better for Aluminum. Heli-coils are better. Keenserts are best.

I second the Keenserts vote...you can get them at McMaster-Carr but you'll have to search on "Key locking threaded inserts" Here's what they look like
92070a120_fam.gif

Sorry Bob- the inserts almost cost me my life once--never again!!
As far as I'm concrened they are crap-o-la.

d

Dale..... were they Keenserts or Heli-coils? Who installed them? Were they properly installed? Did the insert fail or did something else fail?

The reason I ask is that.... "Keenserts are for use in electronic and aerospace applications where size and strength are critical. These inserts may be installed in sheet material as thin as 1/16" providing protrusion of insert is not objectional. Their pull-out strength exceeds the tensile strength of most Military Standard screws. "

Done right, there should not be the cause of a failure.
 
angelfj said:
<span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">Brand new front and back but getting a bit mushy after almost 1,000 miles driven without a breakdown.</span></span>

Dale - <span style="font-weight: bold">getting mushy??? </span>- <span style="font-weight: bold">after only 1000 miles??? </span>your brakes should feel just as firm as they did when you replaced and adjusted them. <span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Before you take this enduro run thing, do yourself a favor and adjust the rear brakes and bleed the system.</span></span>
:iagree: except that I'll wager adjustment is all that's needed. It seems unlikely that any significant air could've been introduced into the system in that short a period of time. On the other hand, it's very common to need to adjust new brakes not so long after installation, as they bed in.
 
Dale;

John Denver is`nt with us anymore for that reason.

Great looking scenery for a Jeepster but a TR6???

Good Luck & surely check your brakes.

Russ

Tinster said:
Will do Frank!! Brakes tune up it is.
Paul- my Jeep is for serious boulder bouncing.
My TR6 is for roaring around on testosterone.

On my list of items to accomplish before the Enduro.
Adjust the breaks, swap out the ignition, tire pressure,
oil level full, full tank of high octane-pedal to the metal
all the way. Antique driving glasses.

glasses.jpg


Jimmy Clark was my all time favorite hero. I watched
him crash and die in 1968 from a failed rear tire.
There are certainly worse ways to die.

I'll be flying. Paul, I'll be flying!! 17 years old
in a magic TR6 riding the verdant skyline ridge of the
central mountains of a tropical isle. What could be better?
Kinda like John Denver in his speedo plane. Full out!!

d [size:17pt]<span style="color: #996633">YEE HAH !!![/</span>size]
steep.jpg
 
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