• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

trailers for lbcs

Country flag
Offline
Because we live so far from everything, we are looking into getting a trailer for transporting our Healey (3000). Has anyone a suggestion as to size, weight and number of axles, with or without breaks? Who makes one with ramps for cars with low clearence? And what should I expect to pay? Limited buget so I'm not lookin into an enclosed one. Good used one if anyone knows of one.
Thanks
Rich
 
Hi, Rich -

There are lots of possibilities out there. Brakes are a definite plus for safety. My trailer doesn't have them now, but I'm planning to add them in the future.

The trailer I have is dual axle, which is a necessity, and is a standard utility trailer. It's 14', but 16' would be better. Bought it new for under $700. The untreated wood deck rotted away in record time, so I found a couple of ramps from a rental truck and bolted them to the trailer. Works great, and is lighter than it was with the wood. I posted a picture in another thread:

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/memberfiles/4395-Trailer.JPG

Mickey
 
Check your local craigslist, there's always a bunch of trailers available.

I borrowed a small one from a friend to pull an MG Midget. It was a basic 2-rail trailer, but the entire trailer pivoted so that you didn't need ramps. Neat design, I may see about getting it duplicated.

Our cars aren't that heavy, so a basic flatbed should work. The big Healey's are a bit heavier than my Sprite (I'm only about 1400# or so) so brakes might be a nice plus.
 
craigslist

trailer utility
will normally get you a flatbed one with sides

Thats how i found mine....

Beaulieu
 
Rich- my experience may not be typical, but for my 2,100# SP250 I bought a new ramp style one, dual axle w/ brakes, and enough of a beaver tail that there are no clearance issues. I needed to modify it with wood inserts to make the ramps narrow enough to get my 36" wheelbase on. With tax & mods it cost me about 1,600. I plan to add an electric winch for the rare occassion it quits and I need to pick it up off the side of the road. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif Because trailer tires will last no longer than LBC ones, you may need to factor the cost of them into any purchase of a used one. Mine came from the manufacturer in central PA, which is no help to you out there. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/driving.gif
 
Here's a photo of mine alongside some of my MG's for comparison. I had it made locally...it has a 12' flat floor & a 2' dovetail, 5' ramps that mount on each side up near the front, a small electric winch, dual axles with electric brakes on both, 15" wheels, bed set high on axles so doors will open over fenders, and is 8' wide....real light, axles are to the rear so it turns easily...holds any of my MG's from the big rubber bumper GT to the tiny Midget....I paid around $1800 in 2003.

red-bs.JPG
 
Brakes. They're good to have, and frequently necessary with the size you'll legally be wanting. Two main types, self contained surge brakes or tow vehicle connected electric brakes. The surge brakes work the same on any tow vehicle. All they are is a master cylinder connected to the hitch of the trailer. As the trailer pushes against it, it applies the trailer brakes. I personally like them because they work on anything and automatically balance to the load. Electric brakes can be applied by you with the controller in the tow vehicle. This is darn good for controlling sway and other dicy conditions. But, you've got to have the tow vehicle set up for it.

Axles. Single vs dual. Dual axle trailers are harder to turn. The lighter the tow vehicle, or the longer the distance between the trailer axles, the harder it is to turn. This can be a significant issue, particularly with a light weight tow vehicle. There is a myth that dual axle trailers are better balanced and more stable. I say myth because most are built with a bogie pivot between the axles, and are no more stable therefore than a single axle trailer. But one built with two fully independent axles is more stable and less sensitive to load placement. These are expensive.

Suspension. For low slung, relatively light weight trailers, the independent torsion axles are the best. You get the trailer down low and have less stuff moving around. Not suitable for trailering bull dozers and other heavy things. Standard leaf springs work just fine, but wear and become sloppy.

Steel vs aluminum. Steel is cheap, but heavy. It rusts too, so you get to paint. Aluminum is light, which is wonderfull, but it's typically expensive.

Loading. A tilt bed is wonderfull to load. A beavertail would be my second choice for loading, but you lose some storage ability from having that tilted rear section of the bed. Beavertails are not suitable for low slung trailers. I personally tend to like the landscape trailer tip up tails, but that's a lot of wind drag, and they are heavy to flip up. Removable ramps require you to position them correctly.

Tires. Here's an often ignored part that is tremendously important. Tires. And I don't simply mean the trailer tires. If the tow vehicle has soft sidewall tires, you *WILL* have problems towing. At the least, pump up the tire pressure of the tow vehicle to maximum capacity, front and rear. I've watched many trailers wagging because the front tires of the tow vehicle were wiggling side to side. Oh, and do make sure you trailer has good tires with stiff sidewalls.

Winch. Wonderfull thing to have on a trailer. You can add it later.
 
While looking around for an open one, a friend had a friend who has a 20 ft dual axle KorBuilt enclosed he wants $3000 (or best offer). Fiberglass enclosure. Good tires. Front and rear doors. I might be able to get it for $2500. Any thoughts? Storage would be a problem.
The tow car is a Cayenne with a 7700 towing capacity. Strong tires
Rich
 
An enclosed trailer gives you some privacy and a sense of security for the car in it. Though it does invite some curiousity by folks wondering what you've got in there.

Enclosed trailers are harder to use for things other than carrying cars, as you can't just toss things over the side. You also cannot work on the car on the trailer, generally. Depending on the size, it can even make getting into and out of the car quite entertaining. Not normally an issue with an LBC, but put a Buick in there and try to escape. Tying down the vehicle can also be awkward at the front of the trailer in front of the vehicle.
 
I'm beginning my search for an enclosed trailer - though 20' is a bit large for our LBC's....one thing it does is give you room for inside storage for another car!
 
Tony, I would not buy an enclosed trailer that is smaller than 20 feet. 24 footers are the norm on the left coast, and are easy to resale. I currently operate a 32 foot goose neck and a 18 foot open trailer. Just think of the extra storage space that you are going to have!
Cheers, David.
 
I'm passing on the enclosed trailer. It would be too hard to pull. It is VERY big. It needed work. It looked like a circus trailer. I'm looking for an open one.
Thanks again.
 
here is what they do in Germany

https://www.mobile.de/SIDLWd0JttSMvoQ-4w0...11111145799090&

pretty lightweight , keeps the rain off your car too !

its made for narrow roads , notice the small wide tires,
you drive over the wheels to put the car on the trailer.
german law says you must have a handbrake on a trailer, good idea if you are building one ,

These are made to pull behind 6 cyl sedans mostly ,
there are not many V8 pick-ups at $6-$7 a gallon gas

also in Germany trailers are limited to 50 mph,
but you can drive 70 mph plus in France , Belgium etc

I always wanted to build a covering for my flat trailer, just never got around to it yet /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
All trailers in europe have handbrakes...which means that they are fitted with surge brakes. Very old technology. I would think that one of there trailers would last about two minutes operating at our speeds and temperatures.
Cheers, David.
 
I think the German trailer would take whatever we could give it /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

The handbrake is a good idea ,

Surge brake are an old idea but they work,
electric brakes are probably better but they need a special hook-up to the tow car.

We all know that American overbuild things and that Germans over engineer everything /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

I am sure there is a good middle ground

Beaulieu
 
I can just see the wind here in Utah making mince meat out of that cover immediately! Weather it be wind from driving speed or just a plain ole windy day.
 
all I know is that the weather in Germany is pretty bad too,

the material they make the covers out of is real heavy duty stuff ,

most of the 18 wheelers there have trailers with "soft" sides,
you roll up the sides to get the goods out ,.....

it works for them !

Beaulieu
 
They are called "curtain siders". I have hauled in the UK and europe as well. The only thing better on there trailers is the galvanized coating. Electric brakes are FAR better than surge brakes. I'll take a Featherlite over any european trailer any day.
Cheers, David.
 
Here is my trailer.

Web page tells it all.

https://ntahc.org/trailer/

The only "problem" is that with the hardtop on,
I either have to winch the Healey in/our or take
the hardtop off (2 minutes) and set it back on
the car after it is in the trailer.
(Wife and I are good at doing this).

Tim
 
Back
Top