TRactor Water Pump Pulley ID?

[CinneaghTR]

What is the main difference between an original water pump pulley and one of those replacement "pressed-on" pulleys that Moss mentions in their catalog? Do they both have keyways? Is the original marked with the part #105537? I had a heck of a time getting my pulley on and I want to make sure that I have an original rather than a replacement.

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MossMotors.com
The pressed-on type pulley of some replacement pumps makes installation of the stock mounting bolt impossible. We offer a stud, part #328-890, for this application. (This stud, like the original bolt, goes through the pump housing to screw into the block.)

 

[Moseso]

I think what Moss is talking about is replacement water pumps -- that they probably have carried -- that have a tightly pressed-on pulley and, perhaps, no nut on the end of the pump shaft. This makes installation/removal of the pump a problem -- hence the stud they refer to. The bolt that this stud replaces is trapped in its hole by the pulley which, if pressed-on, is much more difficult to remove than the stock one.

If your pulley is held on the shaft by a nut (nylock, I think) and can move on the shaft when the nut is loosened, you've got the stock pulley -- or a good replacement.

 

[Geo Hahn]

I think what they're saying is that their aftermarket pump is sold with the pulley mounted and it is meant to be non-removable. Hence it would work best with a stud rather than the original bolt and even then may be a bit tedious to button up.

If you had a hard time getting the pulley on you may have an even harder time removing it. A simple puller can be fashioned from some angle iron that makes removal easy, even in a motel parking lot:

Sorry, I have never noticed a number on the original pulleys but may have not been paying attention.

 

[TR3driver]

My pressed-on pulley does not appear to have a keyway, but I've never tried to remove it from the pump shaft.

Having the stud and nut hasn't been a problem for me, other than you have to remember to start the nut first, before turning the bolts down finger-tight. With the pump tight against the housing, there isn't room between the end of the stud and the pulley to remove/install the nut.

And the stock pulley should fit very snugly on the shaft. There is quite a bit of force applied, because the belt is not in the same plane as the pulley/shaft joint. And if it moves at all, it will eventually wear out the pulley, shaft & key; with unpleasant results. I've heard several times now of the threaded portion of the shaft breaking away, and the pulley flying into the fan & radiator.

AFAIK, none of the common vendors sell the press-on pulley separately. It only comes as part of a replacement pump.

 

[CinneaghTR]

Thanks (again), guys. That is what I needed to know.

 

[CinneaghTR]

If you had a hard time getting the pulley on you may have an even harder time removing it. A simple puller can be fashioned from some angle iron that makes removal easy, even in a motel parking lot:

Hey Geo,

That is very cool. Would you have some rough measurements and hardware specs for your water pump pulley puller? I might as well make it an honorary Churchill tool. Did you use the tip of the spindle as the contact point for the top piece?

I've got the angle iron and there is a motel nearby that I can park my truck at and get to pullin' the pulley.

Thanks in advance,
Jeremy

 

[DanB]

I have been through that mess. I had the pulley mis-aligned slightly from my alternator conversion and wore out the inside of the water pump pulley, then screwed up another water pump, got a TR3 pump from a parts car and put on there for a while and finally got the alternator situation squared away. I am actually not even sure what is on there now. I think it is the later model pump. I do have a bucket full of water pumps and parts, some bad, some not. As I remember, all of them had keyways, but were also very tight fits.

Dan B
So. Charleston WV

66 TR4AIRS EFI
80 TR7 DHC

 

[Geo Hahn]

...Did you use the tip of the spindle as the contact point for the top piece?

I've got the angle iron and there is a motel nearby that I can park my truck at and get to pullin' the pulley...

Yes, that is the contect point. Not a lot of force needed, the key is that it gives a steady straight pull which is hard to do with a pry bar or hammer or such.

Here's it is in its CKD mode:

And here are the bits:

The bolts are all 3/8" from the Home Depot. The lengths are 3" and 5.5" -- 2 of each.

The angle iron is 1.25" (measuring the outside dimension -- 1" is the inside -- not absolutely sure which they use to sell it).

The long iron is 6.75" with 3/8" holes 5.5" on center.

The short iron is 4.5" with 3/8" holes 3.3" on center (and as you can see, one hole on center on the opposite angle).

Credit: I adapted the design from one I saw, pretty sure it was Jay Holecamp who had it. His was welded up which would make it less fiddlely to use but the loose nuts work out fine too.

You don't have to go to a motel to try this -- a hotel parking lot will work fine.

Good Luck!

 

[CinneaghTR]

Awesome, thanks so much Geo!!!

 

[TR3driver]

Just a thought : if you are worried about pressing against the small threaded end, you might be able to find a 1/4" drive socket that would fit over the threads and press against the shaft (but fit inside the pulley hole).