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Wedge TR8 Tranny Noise

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JFS

JFS

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My TR8 tranny has always been somewhat noisey, but recently has become noticeably more so. The noise is loudest when idling with the the tranny in neutral and the clutch out. The noise stops when the clutch is pushed in. When driving, all 5 gears seem noiser than they should be. Could I be lucky and just have a bad throwout bearing or pilot bushing?
 
I rebuilt my engine and put it all together without a pilot bearing at all and it really wasn't very noticeable except for some clutch chatter on a hard getaway. However, I suppose a bad PB would make noise, whereas no PB would make no noise, DUH! If I were going to bet, I'd bet on your TO bearing. Either way, you've got a job ahead of you. Good luck and keep us posted.

Tom
 
1st motion shaft bearing (input shaft) or maybe laygear bearings (countershaft bearings)

Also....Could be the tranny fluid....What are you using?
Is it full?

Yank-er out & have a look see.
 
The TR8 tranny ain't the best. I battled mine for quite a long time. First of all -- make sure you're running ATF. It is what the factory suggested in a TSB after cars started coming in to dealerships with tranny noise and shifting problems.

You might also check if the stop plates are properly adjusted. If the shifter is leaning on the edge, rather than fully engaged in the gear, you'll get some whine.
 
I use GM Synchromesh Transmission Fluid as recommended by Woody Cooper, and just topped it up previous to the 800 mile trip I took upon which the noise became much louder. I feared the first motion shaft or laygear as suggested by WhatsThatNoise, but am hoping for something simpler that I could handle myself. I've pulled engines and trannies numberous times on TR3s, TR4s, TR6s and MGs, but never on the TR8 which seems a bit more complicated. But although the 8's engine runs extremely well, it leaks oil badly as does the tranny and the rear tranny mount looks bad, so I might as well get up my courage and pull 'em both. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nopity.gif
 
I am not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination but having only worked on (ie pulled) three engines in my life I found the TR8 by far the easiest to pull. My tranny makes noise when at stops and it is out of gear. At speed it has a slight whining but it has been two years since I have driven it so I do not remember if it is normal. I have topped mine off with ATF. I had traded a 5 speed TR8 for a 3.45 rear axle to Scott in Warren Ohio at Team Triumph.
 
If it comes down to pulling the engine let us know and those of us with experience (3 times) can lay some tips on you to make the job go easier. If you're not too far from Door Co. I could even lend a hand if you need it.
 
Quantumechanics lists a rebuilt tranny for about $1100. I think I'll go that route and pull the engine as well so I can install new gaskets and seals to deal with the engine leaks.
Cheapsnake, I'm in Appleton, and I can certainly use the tips. I have a four post lift that was wide enough to drop a Porsche 911 engine between its ramps, so I suspect the Rover oughtt to fit, too. I quickly glanced through the manual and saw that some of the front suspension has to be removed. I will study the manual a bit more and contact John at Quantum.
At least I will still have my TR3 to drive while the TR8 is down. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
I know the manual advises removing the subframe for engine removal but I don't know anybody that's actually dropped their engine that way. Every TR8 engine I know has come out the top. However, I don't know that a lot of them had a lift to work with so that may make the difference. You are truly blessed. Either way, the offer still stands. In the meantime, enjoy the 3.
 
I dropped the subframe when I rebuilt my engine. I simple set it up unbolted it, lifted the car and used the subframe and a way to hold the engie while I rebuilt it. Seemed very easy since it ws exactly like the manual told me to do. Never tried the other way.
 
I have been following this post, and I am curious, is there a way to check your transmission fluid easily on the 8? I have not had mine looked at in a couple of years and was not sure after all this talk if maybe I should take a look.

Thanks!

Rod
 
Rod, you have to check the tranny fluid level from the bottom. There is a filler plug on the left side of the tranny case which should be filled to the bottom of the threads. Make an L shaped dipstick from a paperclip (a piece of masking tape on the end enables seeing the fluid level, but don't let it fall off into the tranny!). If not too low you can use a pump oil can with a rubber hose attached to top off. If quite low, a fluid transfer bulb like that used by boaters will work faster. When I first bought the car the tranny seemed a bit noisey so I drained the little gunk that was in it and replaced it with the GM Synchromesh Fluid. I watch the level religously.
Cheapsnake, thanks for the offer. I'll post when I have everything ready to go.
 
when I checked mine it was low so, being it was late, I had to make due with I had on hand. I took my ATF bottle, drilled a small hole in the cap that a regular drinking straw with a flex neck would fit in tightly, and inserted the straw, then simply squeezed the bottle. been doing it for 6 years now.
 
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