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Wedge TR8 light wiring

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PATR8

PATR8

Jedi Knight
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OK, I am beaten by the lights. I used to understand how they work but do not understand why they don't. It has been years since I have had any trouble with them. This spring they decided not work. I swapped out the motors, both work but I do not think I have it wired correctly. I know there are 5 wires, three in a connector and two singles. I beleive the singles change the polarity

Do the light motors rotate in one direction to go up and down (that is how I recall it)? or does the motor rotate in different directions to go up and down?

How do I adjust the lights so they go up further? One is only going up about 80% of the way.

One light is stiff to hand rotate up and the others basically is a single finger roatate. I somehow remember them requiring some effort to go up and down

Why do my side lights keep shorting out? My right side head lights and right side light are out but the side lights keep blowing the fuse. I can not find where it could be shorting.
I am doubting my headlight is burnt out since both beams are out.


I so tired laying under the car trying to figure it all out again, I pretty much remember doing this 10 years ago
 
The motors only rotate in one direction. There is a lever at the top of the folding mechanism that acts as a limit. Perhaps that is activating prematurely and you are only getting 80% travel. The folding mechanism probably needs to be cleaned and greased. Most likely culprit for the short is right at the front marker light. The hot wire has an insulating sleeve over it that protects it from grounding against the body. I spent several hours yesterday tracking down why the dash lights on one of my cars were not working. Ended up being lots of little issues and one big one. The main plug that feeds wires to the dash pod had a bent ground connection. !2 wires connect at one spot and only one was afoul. Go figure. I was getting real frustrated for a while. Aren't Brit cars fun!
 
Motor only turns one way. Here's a very good explanation of the mysteries.

Also, your rubber surround may be fouling the operation on the one that isn't raising all the way. Click here for info.

Let us know what you find.

Mickey
 
If it gets hung up on the rubber, the motor will continue to try and raise. Either the rubber will tear away or something electrical will fail. It won't just stop and say "oh well that's good enough". Bad things happen when the rubber fouls. It won't stop until the motor hits the limit and the electrical connection breaks.
 
I got the headlamp issue licked!
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OK, round two goes to the TR8. I tore them apart and greased them up and I now have the passanger side going up on demand. the driver side which had previously gone up but not down does nothing. Neither goes down when I ask, even if I curse and scream like a drill SGT at it. I do have the spacing right on them so they go all the way up and down.

I just do not know where to go other than to start to chase the wiring harness. I did what Woody suggest and took the switch out and used a wire to jump the harness to eliminate the switch as a possible problem.

I was also able to confirm that the one head light was out, both high and low beam. Go figure.

Tomorrow I am going to start with the right side lights and try to figure out why it shorts out everytime I put a fuse in.

But dang it is running well
 
Just out of curiosity, can you put 12 volts to the motor directly? Using a spare battery or charger and make the motors operate or not?

That would isolate the problem to either poor or spent motors or wire harness / switch issues.

I would be more inclined to pull the entire assembly out and bench test than to enter into the world of a TR8 wire harness. :smile:

The switches in the dash are pretty weak and prone to corrosion. I just pulled them out recently and gave them a cleaning....might help.

Every time I have a bizarre electrical issue in my car I clean the battery contacts and every ground strap I can find. So far that has solved it every time. In fact I am about due......

Check the battery condition.

Let us know what happens next!

Randy
 
I was able to test both motors, they are good, I can make them both raise the lamps if I hook them up directly, the one even goes up by itself currently. I am fustrated so I am taking today off from playing with the 8. I will wait for the vast knowledge located on here to let me know what stupid thing I am missing
 
Thanks but I have already memorized the TR8 manual paged dealing with the lights. I have loooked at three other wedges to make sure I have the wires correct, it simply has to be a harness issue. I do not know what else it could be
 
That was an idea I had but I have a spare relay I assume is good sonce it worked when I pulled it out of the old car but it did not help. Maybe I will order two up and see if it helps. Good Idea, thanks
 
I swapped out the relays and then I found I could not shut my car off. One of the relays I swapped in was stuck in the open position I guess and all the ignition wire remained hot even with the key off. Took me 2 hours to figure that out, I was worried I fried the ignition.

I still have no idea, I will give Woody a call tomorrow, I hate bothering him for advice during the busy season.

I still have no idea why my right side lights blow the fuse every time I turn the lights on. I pulled every single light out, disconnected every light socket but it blows immediately. THat has to be an easy fix that I am just missing. Some wedgie help me here, all that should be on that relay is the front light in the bumper front side light, back side light, and the upper light in the tale light.
 
Hummmm I had a similar issue with mine several years ago. The left side of the ignition key tumbler had given way. The results were random engagements that were pretty amazing. In fact, on one occasion, the starter just "engaged" all by itself....which is fine except I was doing about 40 MPH....

Not sure how that ties into the headlights, but if that tumbler on the back side of the key is gone, all bets are off.
 
I kind of figured it was a wire going to ground but with all the lights pulled, and sockets pulled it still does it, I have to be missing something.
 
maybe the configuration of the relay had one set of no contacts and one set of nc contacts. I swapped relays in my fhc once and couldn't shut it off. I had swapped a headlight relay for an ignition relay.
 
Not that I doubt your prowess Major.
A lot of people think all relays are the same.
 
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